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Gale Hawkins
01-25-1999, 08:34 PM
The only window that 'must' work is sick. When the driver's window reaches the top the motor trys to keep going and you hear a very bad popping noise if the switch is not released. What method does the motor use to detect window is closed? What should I be looking for when I remove the door panel? <p>My 1988 735i also has a sunscreen with its tounge hanging out and my owner's handbook is silent on the subject. Where is the button that should retract it? My handbook was printed in 1987 and the car was produced in 07/87 and the pictures match my car but on page #1 it reads 735i and 750iL. The car was advertized as a 735iL but has 735i on the trunk lid and title so I am guessing it is not a 735iL. Was 735iL added later in the production year? By the way I traded for the car sight unseen off the internet and am very pleased at the value, this being my third used BMW but I could not wait of the hauler to unload it so I could see what I had bought. Thanks of your help.<p><p>

Callan
01-25-1999, 09:49 PM
The little microswitch that is mounted on each of the front window regulators may have fallen off or failed. it provides a ground signal to the control unit that runs the windows and if it doesn't open as the glass reaches the top of its travel the motor won't receive the "turn off" signal from the control module. I wrote earlier about your sunblind but it didn't post. The car you have is manual on this op. The electric version didn't come out for a couple more years. Just use that "tongue" to pull the sunscreen up with and hang it on the cups at each side of the car. The L is for longwheel base cars. Yours is the "regular" version Enjoy

Gale Hawkins
01-26-1999, 07:28 PM
Thanks. I may have a track problem. If the window is down midway and I start to raise it it will move down a fraction before it starts up and it will go up a fraction when I try to make it go lower. When completely raising the window the rear of the glass reaches the top about one half inch before the front edge does. I had this happen on my 85 528e but I just got it all the way up and disconnected the switches because it was a rear window. Can the lift system be repaired sometimes or will I have to find new or used parts?

Callan
01-26-1999, 07:36 PM
Yup! it sounds like either the little plastic guide "pads" have popped out on one side of the glass/regulator or the window regl. has fallen apart. Not to rain on your parade but the early E-32 sevens had a bad habit of breaking the weld for the front channel where the glass slides down. A good body shop can drill a small access hole for welding the loose bracket back onto the door skin at the front. For just about anything else you'll need new or GOOD used parts. Good luck...

Gale Hawkins
01-30-1999, 10:56 PM
One of little plastic guide "pads" was damaged but the major problem is missing teeth on the half circle gear just as the window almost seals at the top. I found what looked liked may have been the retainer clip that held the gear inplace in the bottom of the door. Will all of the lift system come out after getting the glass unsnapped from the plastic guides and lifted to the top and of course unbolted? Is the motor and worn gear one part? I feel the worm gear may be damaged but can not see it yet. Anyone with experience solving this problem?

Gale Hawkins
02-04-1999, 08:36 PM
Replaced it with a new lift or regulator. The motor and drive gear were fine. Tuff job for one cripped guy but it works fine now. It will be easier if there is a next time.


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