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Gale Hawkins
02-01-2000, 07:36 PM
After a week of 10-15 degree evening my 82 733i now drips coolant from the valve that controls the coolant flow through the heating system and it is mounted on the firewall. If I let it warm up with NO pressure on the system it does not leak but as soon as pressure is permitted to build up to normal it goes to dripping and winds up hitting the exhaust and creating steam. <p>Since it was not doing it prior to the cold weather I think it may have froze and cracked the valve body. Since I resently had the radiator replaced and paid for new coolant I expected it to be good for -30 degrees but that is the problem with asumming.<p>Does this valve disconnect at the firewall if I have to replace it or does one have to get under the dash? If it just has a hairline crack in it is the a cement worth trying since it appears to be plastic? I was just keeping the car until the snow and ice season was over but now it is sick. Any experience here. Thanks.

Korby
02-02-2000, 06:49 PM
The Chiltons manual says (for 7 series) just disconnect the electrical connection (mine is vacuum actuated), unscrew the screws and clamp and remove and replace. This seems right from what I've seen from both the engine compartment and under the vent cowl. You should be able to R&R from the engine compartment. <p>I don't know about the relationship of your antifreeze and the crack. From the reading in the discussion groups I've done, it seems a cracked water valve is not uncommon. It could be just the nature of a plastic car.<p>I have no idea about trying to cement the cracks. You've got nothing to lose by trying though right? I recently priced the valve for my 85 735i at all www.allbmwparts.com...$42 (US) for a new valve. <p><i>: After a week of 10-15 degree evening my 82 733i now drips coolant from the valve that controls the coolant flow through the heating system and it is mounted on the firewall. If I let it warm up with NO pressure on the system it does not leak but as soon as pressure is permitted to build up to normal it goes to dripping and winds up hitting the exhaust and creating steam. <p>: Since it was not doing it prior to the cold weather I think it may have froze and cracked the valve body. Since I resently had the radiator replaced and paid for new coolant I expected it to be good for -30 degrees but that is the problem with asumming.<p>: Does this valve disconnect at the firewall if I have to replace it or does one have to get under the dash? If it just has a hairline crack in it is the a cement worth trying since it appears to be plastic? I was just keeping the car until the snow and ice season was over but now it is sick. Any experience here. Thanks.<p></i>

Gale Hawkins
02-02-2000, 09:19 PM
Thanks Korby it sure makes me feel much better because that being the case I can handle the labor. Since I will be selling the car this year I was afraid I might have to spend a lot of money first. Thanks again for sharing the info.<p><br><i>: The Chiltons manual says (for 7 series) just disconnect the electrical connection (mine is vacuum actuated), unscrew the screws and clamp and remove and replace. This seems right from what I've seen from both the engine compartment and under the vent cowl. You should be able to R&R from the engine compartment. <p>: I don't know about the relationship of your antifreeze and the crack. From the reading in the discussion groups I've done, it seems a cracked water valve is not uncommon. It could be just the nature of a plastic car.<p>: I have no idea about trying to cement the cracks. You've got nothing to lose by trying though right? I recently priced the valve for my 85 735i at all www.allbmwparts.com...$42 (US) for a new valve. <p>: : After a week of 10-15 degree evening my 82 733i now drips coolant from the valve that controls the coolant flow through the heating system and it is mounted on the firewall. If I let it warm up with NO pressure on the system it does not leak but as soon as pressure is permitted to build up to normal it goes to dripping and winds up hitting the exhaust and creating steam. <p>: : Since it was not doing it prior to the cold weather I think it may have froze and cracked the valve body. Since I resently had the radiator replaced and paid for new coolant I expected it to be good for -30 degrees but that is the problem with asumming.<p>: : Does this valve disconnect at the firewall if I have to replace it or does one have to get under the dash? If it just has a hairline crack in it is the a cement worth trying since it appears to be plastic? I was just keeping the car until the snow and ice season was over but now it is sick. Any experience here. Thanks.<p></i>


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