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Jeff Patch
01-13-1999, 11:08 PM
I'm considering building a cold air intake for my 86 325es. Here is my plan.. I'm looking for any suggestions to make this better or correct if it is wrong.<p>Parts:<br>PVC Tubing, Connectors, Angled Pieces<br>K&N Cone filter<br>Couple Hose Clamps<p>I plan to remove the air box, connect start of tubing to the existing air intake duct (rubber part that connects to intake manifold. Route the tubing down towards the front, bottom of the engine bay.<p>I have a couple questions.<br>How will I get the K&N Cone filter secured to the pipe?<br>The most obvious place to put the filter is down behind/under the drivers side headlight. But that is where the intake ducting is routed now anyway... so would that be pointless? Or does the K&N cone filter draw in a lot more air? <br>I currently have a drop in K&N filter. Will I experience any gains over the drop in???<br>What about wet weather? This place seems like it will stay dry... but when driving in the rain will it get wet and damage my engine? This isn't a racing vehicle... it's my only car (daily driver) but I am attempting to make this car as fast as possible for as little money as possible.<br>and lastly, what kind of gains can I expect?<p>Thanks In Advance,<br>Jeff Patch

Callan
01-15-1999, 12:39 AM
I don't think you'll be happy with the results of your modifications esp. if you drive through any deep standing water. Once an engine gets a big gulp of any! liquid it becomes "hydrolocked" and only gets more expensive! The biggest problem stock BMWs have with the intake system is the built in restriction of the airflow meter which by design can't allow for as free flowing as you'd like. The newer airmass sensor systems don't have this problem but you can't just bolt one since the signals generated aren't the same. There are people who sell kits to convert cars but expect to pay$$$$ to go faster. I'd stick with the simple K&N filter,think about a free flowing exhuast system and upgrade the stock 2.93 diff to a higher 3.45 or 3.64 ratio to get things quicker. There are great books and much smarter people out there who can point you in the right direction than myself. Just remember what I was taught by a man who had been racing before I was even born. "If a engine has started out being highly developed to begin with {like most BMWs are}each small step towards even more power will take a much larger effort to arrive at because the engine was so effective to start with" What he was trying to say was that if you started with a loose , low power{ratio wise} engine you could only go up{usually}because the engine was so underdeveloped to begin with or needed only basic things like better breathing or more compression. Good luck.

Dustin
01-15-1999, 10:36 AM
<i>: I don't think you'll be happy with the results of your modifications esp. if you drive through any deep standing water. Once an engine gets a big gulp of any! liquid it becomes "hydrolocked" and only gets more expensive! The biggest problem stock BMWs have with the intake system is the built in restriction of the airflow meter which by design can't allow for as free flowing as you'd like. The newer airmass sensor systems don't have this problem but you can't just bolt one since the signals generated aren't the same. There are people who sell kits to convert cars but expect to pay$$$$ to go faster. I'd stick with the simple K&N filter,think about a free flowing exhuast system and upgrade the stock 2.93 diff to a higher 3.45 or 3.64 ratio to get things quicker. There are great books and much smarter people out there who can point you in the right direction than myself. Just remember what I was taught by a man who had been racing before I was even born. "If a engine has started out being highly developed to begin with {like most BMWs are}each small step towards even more power will take a much larger effort to arrive at because the engine was so effective to start with" What he was trying to say was that if you started with a loose , low power{ratio wise} engine you could only go up{usually}because the engine was so underdeveloped to begin with or needed only basic things like better breathing or more compression. Good luck.<p><br>Sounds to me like pretty good advice, I was also thinking of buying a BMP CONE FILTER kit and I <br>was worried about the water to because I live in a place that gets pretty wet during the Winter/Spring. I was just htinkg though. I know that BMW designed their Motorsport engines (M3/M5/M6) to be very fast and good from the factory and their are only a few small items one could add to increase the overall power of the car and still keep it somewhat relaible without spending big buck. But the I & E engines are pretty big and they where mostly developed for an average good economy car and they probably have very restrictive airboxes, exhausts, cams, and ECU Chips. So by replacing thse you could probably see a pretty noticable gain. I have a 1986 BMW 325e and I got it stock and it was slow slow slow but it handled great. So I said hey I don't have big $$$$ to spend so I will go see what other people think the best performance values are. So I went looking around and the first thing everyone said was get a K&N drop-in so I got it and put it in I didn't really notice any power diffrence but I noticed a pretty big diffrence in how fast the engine revved. I realized that I got the engine revving faster now I needed to produce some more power so I once again got on tha net and asked everyone what the best value was for a power increase (Under $400) and everyone said a Chip so I decided to buy the JC chip and I put it in and holy cow ! I had a faster revving very torquey motor I mean this thing really moves on now compared to what it did stock. That was the best investment I ever made and I think that if you really wanna notice a diffrence thats what you should buy ! I love mine and it was worth every single penny and TMS sent me free stickers to :) hehe if you got any questions just ask me.

Ino
01-15-1999, 12:16 PM
problems.<p>The intake is very low and during the rains or floods the water is stucked up into the engine.<p>You are look at $14,000 of expenses on these newer engines! This information and article appeared in Car & Driver last month. BMW will need to consider there engineering on this one.<p>Ino

Jeff Patch
01-15-1999, 11:22 PM
Ok so screw the intake. How about exhaust? I'd like a bit more sound, but nothing too powerful. I can get an ANSA from my local mufler shop... just the muffler or catback.. my choice. Do ANSA's offer better performance over stock? People on the digest are telling me that you just can't get power from exhaust. I don't believe I can get TONS of power from exhaust but I'd think it'd be a bit faster (maybe accellerate more? easier?)<br>I can get ANSA, Dynamax, Flowmaster, or Magnaflow.<br>They say not to go for the Magnaflow... and I'm sure the flowmaster is too loud. So it's between ANSA or Dynamax??? What do you guys say?<br>I've got $200 coming my way and it's a toss up between a chip or the exhaust. I'd like to get both done eventually, but which one should come first?<p>: <br>: Sounds to me like pretty good advice, I was also thinking of buying a BMP CONE FILTER kit and I <br>: was worried about the water to because I live in a place that gets pretty wet during the Winter/Spring. I was just htinkg though. I know that BMW designed their Motorsport engines (M3/M5/M6) to be very fast and good from the factory and their are only a few small items one could add to increase the overall power of the car and still keep it somewhat relaible without spending big buck. But the I & E engines are pretty big and they where mostly developed for an average good economy car and they probably have very restrictive airboxes, exhausts, cams, and ECU Chips. So by replacing thse you could probably see a pretty noticable gain. I have a 1986 BMW 325e and I got it stock and it was slow slow slow but it handled great. So I said hey I don't have big $$$$ to spend so I will go see what other people think the best performance values are. So I went looking around and the first thing everyone said was get a K&N drop-in so I got it and put it in I didn't really notice any power diffrence but I noticed a pretty big diffrence in how fast the engine revved. I realized that I got the engine revving faster now I needed to produce some more power so I once again got on tha net and asked everyone what the best value was for a power increase (Under $400) and everyone said a Chip so I decided to buy the JC chip and I put it in and holy cow ! I had a faster revving very torquey motor I mean this thing really moves on now compared to what it did stock. That was the best investment I ever made and I think that if you really wanna notice a diffrence thats what you should buy ! I love mine and it was worth every single penny and TMS sent me free stickers to :) hehe if you got any questions just ask me.<p></i>

Dustin
01-16-1999, 09:25 AM
<i>: Ok so screw the intake. How about exhaust? I'd like a bit more sound, but nothing too powerful. I can get an ANSA from my local mufler shop... just the muffler or catback.. my choice. Do ANSA's offer better performance over stock? People on the digest are telling me that you just can't get power from exhaust. I don't believe I can get TONS of power from exhaust but I'd think it'd be a bit faster (maybe accellerate more? easier?)<br>: I can get ANSA, Dynamax, Flowmaster, or Magnaflow.<br>: They say not to go for the Magnaflow... and I'm sure the flowmaster is too loud. So it's between ANSA or Dynamax??? What do you guys say?<br>: I've got $200 coming my way and it's a toss up between a chip or the exhaust. I'd like to get both done eventually, but which one should come first?<p>: : <br>: : Sounds to me like pretty good advice, I was also thinking of buying a BMP CONE FILTER kit and I <br>: : was worried about the water to because I live in a place that gets pretty wet during the Winter/Spring. I was just htinkg though. I know that BMW designed their Motorsport engines (M3/M5/M6) to be very fast and good from the factory and their are only a few small items one could add to increase the overall power of the car and still keep it somewhat relaible without spending big buck. But the I & E engines are pretty big and they where mostly developed for an average good economy car and they probably have very restrictive airboxes, exhausts, cams, and ECU Chips. So by replacing thse you could probably see a pretty noticable gain. I have a 1986 BMW 325e and I got it stock and it was slow slow slow but it handled great. So I said hey I don't have big $$$$ to spend so I will go see what other people think the best performance values are. So I went looking around and the first thing everyone said was get a K&N drop-in so I got it and put it in I didn't really notice any power diffrence but I noticed a pretty big diffrence in how fast the engine revved. I realized that I got the engine revving faster now I needed to produce some more power so I once again got on tha net and asked everyone what the best value was for a power increase (Under $400) and everyone said a Chip so I decided to buy the JC chip and I put it in and holy cow ! I had a faster revving very torquey motor I mean this thing really moves on now compared to what it did stock. That was the best investment I ever made and I think that if you really wanna notice a diffrence thats what you should buy ! I love mine and it was worth every single penny and TMS sent me free stickers to :) hehe if you got any questions just ask me.<p>Get the chip first from Turner Motorsports and then when you get the money get a Supersprint Exhaust from BMP <br></i>

Randy Sparre
01-17-1999, 01:52 AM
<i>: I'm considering building a cold air intake for my 86 325es. Here is my plan.. I'm looking for any suggestions to make this better or correct if it is wrong.<p>: Parts:<br>: PVC Tubing, Connectors, Angled Pieces<br>: K&N Cone filter<br>: Couple Hose Clamps<p>: I plan to remove the air box, connect start of tubing to the existing air intake duct (rubber part that connects to intake manifold. Route the tubing down towards the front, bottom of the engine bay.<p>: I have a couple questions.<br>: How will I get the K&N Cone filter secured to the pipe?<br>: The most obvious place to put the filter is down behind/under the drivers side headlight. But that is where the intake ducting is routed now anyway... so would that be pointless? Or does the K&N cone filter draw in a lot more air? <br>: I currently have a drop in K&N filter. Will I experience any gains over the drop in???<br>: What about wet weather? This place seems like it will stay dry... but when driving in the rain will it get wet and damage my engine? This isn't a racing vehicle... it's my only car (daily driver) but I am attempting to make this car as fast as possible for as little money as possible.<br>: and lastly, what kind of gains can I expect?<p>: Thanks In Advance,<br>: Jeff Patch<p><br></i>

Randy Sparre
01-17-1999, 02:04 AM
<i>: I'm considering building a cold air intake for my 86 325es. Here is my plan.. I'm looking for any suggestions to make this better or correct if it is wrong.<p>: Parts:<br>: PVC Tubing, Connectors, Angled Pieces<br>: K&N Cone filter<br>: Couple Hose Clamps<p>: I plan to remove the air box, connect start of tubing to the existing air intake duct (rubber part that connects to intake manifold. Route the tubing down towards the front, bottom of the engine bay.<p>: I have a couple questions.<br>: How will I get the K&N Cone filter secured to the pipe?<br>: The most obvious place to put the filter is down behind/under the drivers side headlight. But that is where the intake ducting is routed now anyway... so would that be pointless? Or does the K&N cone filter draw in a lot more air? <br>: I currently have a drop in K&N filter. Will I experience any gains over the drop in???<br>: What about wet weather? This place seems like it will stay dry... but when driving in the rain will it get wet and damage my engine? This isn't a racing vehicle... it's my only car (daily driver) but I am attempting to make this car as fast as possible for as little money as possible.<br>: and lastly, what kind of gains can I expect?<p>: Thanks In Advance,<br>: Jeff Patch<p><br></i>I made a great intake using a short K&N filter, (adapter bracket was already purchased) and I bought 2 empty (1 gallon) paint cans. Cut one end off on each, put the filter inside and cup them both together. Then cut a 2.5" hole in the side. I then took out my driver side high beam and placed a (cut to proper OD) funnel in the opening. I cut the tapered end of the funnel to 2.5" and connected the funnel to the paint can with a 2.5"OD flex hose. The paint cans prevent the filter from sucking in hot air. I put a mesh in front of the funnel and painted it all silver. Most people don't even notice it's a funnel. I can really feel a difference off the line on a hot summer day and of course at higher speeds. I haven't noticed any problems with humidity on rainy days and I've had this set up for approx. 10 months.<br>

ronald
01-17-1999, 11:46 AM
<br><i><br>: : I don't think you'll be happy with the <br>results of your modifications esp. if you drive <br>through any deep standing water. Once an engine <br>gets a big gulp of any! liquid it becomes <br>"hydrolocked" and only gets more expensive! The <br>biggest problem stock BMWs have with the intake <br>system is the built in restriction of the airflow <br>meter which by design can't allow for as free <br>flowing as you'd like. The newer airmass sensor <br>systems don't have this problem but you can't just <br>bolt one since the signals generated aren't the <br>same. There are people who sell kits to convert <br>cars but expect to pay$$$$ to go faster. I'd stick <br>with the simple K&N filter,think about a free <br>flowing exhuast system and upgrade the stock 2.93 <br>diff to a higher 3.45 or 3.64 ratio to get things <br>quicker. There are great books and much smarter <br>people out there who can point you in the right <br>direction than myself. Just remember what I was <br>taught by a man who had been racing before I was <br>even born. "If a engine has started out being <br>highly developed to begin with {like most BMWs <br>are}each small step towards even more power will <br>take a much larger effort to arrive at because the <br>engine was so effective to start with" What he was <br>trying to say was that if you started with a loose <br>, low power{ratio wise} engine you could only go <br>up{usually}because the engine was so <br>underdeveloped to begin with or needed only basic <br>things like better breathing or more compression. <br>Good luck.<p>: <br>: Sounds to me like pretty good advice, I was also <br>thinking of buying a BMP CONE FILTER kit and I <br>: was worried about the water to because I live in <br>a place that gets pretty wet during the <br>Winter/Spring. I was just htinkg though. I know <br>that BMW designed their Motorsport engines <br>(M3/M5/M6) to be very fast and good from the <br>factory and their are only a few small items one <br>could add to increase the overall power of the car <br>and still keep it somewhat relaible without <br>spending big buck. But the I & E engines are <br>pretty big and they where mostly developed for an <br>average good economy car and they probably have <br>very restrictive airboxes, exhausts, cams, and ECU <br>Chips. So by replacing thse you could probably see <br>a pretty noticable gain. I have a 1986 BMW 325e <br>and I got it stock and it was slow slow slow but <br>it handled great. So I said hey I don't have big <br>$$$$ to spend so I will go see what other people <br>think the best performance values are. So I went <br>looking around and the first thing everyone said <br>was get a K&N drop-in so I got it and put it in I <br>didn't really notice any power diffrence but I <br>noticed a pretty big diffrence in how fast the <br>engine revved. I realized that I got the engine <br>revving faster now I needed to produce some more <br>power so I once again got on tha net and asked <br>everyone what the best value was for a power <br>increase (Under $400) and everyone said a Chip so <br>I decided to buy the JC chip and I put it in and <br>holy cow ! I had a faster revving very torquey <br>motor I mean this thing really moves on now <br>compared to what it did stock. That was the best <br>investment I ever made and I think that if you <br>really wanna notice a diffrence thats what you <br>should buy ! I love mine and it was worth every <br>single penny and TMS sent me free stickers to :) <br>hehe if you got any questions just ask me.<p><br></i>i purchased a dynomax super turbo with 3 inch inlet and outlet. Only cost $54. Should end up spending around $100. still need pipe to weld it up to the e36 twin cats.<br>this is for my m50 conversion.<br>should be a similar setup for a e30 engine.<br> still a whole lot better than buying a $400 system!!!<br>dont get ripped buying some overpriced system that claims the high perf. gaines!!<br>

Ino
01-19-1999, 03:19 PM
The chip will give you more gains than simply bolting a muffler/resonator.<p>I would also have to agree with Supersprint. It looks better and the quality is better. If you buy an ANSA you will always think about the Supersprint and trust me on that 325es you have it will be worth the bucks.<p>Stay away from Flowmaster.<p>Gook luck,<p>Ino


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