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fragglerock
01-29-2002, 09:36 PM
<center><img src="http://www.finneyfrocks.com/images/camera/xtra/m305.jpg"></center><p>

Andrew
01-29-2002, 09:58 PM
Mine bent and tore out of the mounting point. I'm not sure which happened first but I'm assuming it broke free and the got caught in the suspension and bent. I've since installed the Turner reinforcement kit and then replaced both links with stock replacements. I still have stock sway bars and I haven't had any problems. However, I'm planing on upgrading my swy bars and have heard that stiffer sway bars will often break stock links. I'm thinking of building my own links thanks to the UUC tech tips. Check the link. Go to the tech tips section. HTH.<br>-Andrew

eric_m3
01-30-2002, 10:40 AM
<i><br>Even Will Turner does not feel that upgraded links are need for his J Stock cars.<p>Eric

Stan
01-30-2002, 10:52 AM
I've used rod end jointed links for years. But they tend to get some play and get noisy fairly soon. Even if you use those "sealsit" rodend seals.<p>It's very easy to modify STOCK links to be adjustable. The stock links have beefy lubricated joints that are well sealed, and these joints LAST.<p>You can cut the middle out leaving stubs for each joint. Then you thread the OD of the stub with a 5/16 die. And get some Coleman aluminum shift linkage tubing or BMP tube or whatever with the proper ID threaded to match. EZ to do in a vice and the OD of the stubs are close enough to the right size for threading that you can have at it right away. I made one for each side two years ago and they work great and are quiet and strong. To an extent you can set the bar to have no preload or slightly allow for corner balancing although it's best to do that at the spring. Lock them in place with jam nuts.<p>I like having one on each side cuz if you change the ride height the overall length is a bit off from what you'd want for best leverage / articulation. Not a big deal though.<p>Stan


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