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sam brown
02-02-2000, 10:58 PM
Okay i've liked german cars since my vw's, so im putting the old mustang to the side for a few to hopefully make a decent reliable cooler looking car.<br>I bought this 88 750il with about 140k (owner states motor/ecu were replaced with 92 model 40k miles ago, can't tell myself and no records so ill assume not) The computer says 040359 miles but the title 5 years ago says 90k so im thinking 140k miles by now at least. Heres a list of problems. Please email+post any suggestions on myself saving money first off then ill take it to a shop to fix the rest.<p>1. Heat doesn't work. Car is warm, Coolant level is fine, there is a crack in the radiator on the left where the metal line goes in, new/rebuild radiator i know, but should produce Some heat?<br>2. Bad red-fluid(power steering i assume) leak near the lower left front engine. Guy says the power steering/ride-leveler uses special fluid and not to use power steering/tranny fluid. Great. Any tips on isolating this leak while we're here?<br>3. Big clunk on right rear end during middle-hard acceleration, feels like somethings either real loose or broken specifically on the right side. Car handles fine, but this sounds serious.<br>4. very small same bright-red fluid leak dripping on the right cat converter. Does this car share tranny/ps fluid across the board? One would think a tranny of this age would have more burnt fluid that the bright red thats leaking out.<br>5. Muffler shot. Any suggestions im not looking to replace the cat-back or anything, just cheap similar to original.<br>6. Guy drove the brake rotor on the front right to the ground. Im thinking autozone for right now. Anything special to consider? im not going to drive it with a bad brake ya know.<p>I can live with this power steering leak & right rear clunk for a few days, but i'd like to get the breaks and HEAT!!(ATL is so cold lately). I'm hoping if i can spend around $4000 including a door dent and paint job i'd have a really nice Black(ugly beige metallic now) 750il for about $7k invested. Motor and tranny seem strong, however it does miss, and churns some black smoke out during load. Hows the difficulty on home-tune-up, and cost. Plugs(look like a bitch to change), rotor(? Does it use one?) cap, air filters, oil(smells a little gassy, better change it quick), etc. Any tips. Definite fixur upper and thats why i only paid $3000 for it but the interior is in good shape. I almost bought a really beat up 88 735i for the same amount a week before. Now im glad i waited to get the 750il, the engine looks much cooler, and seems to be a lot smoother than the 6 cylinder. I need to kill the last owner for putting a bad bondo job on the left rear door, shoulda just left the paint+dent in place. ugh.<p>Please email a copy to rigor@mediaone.net so i can get started fixing this bugger and drive it around as safely as possible soon.<br>

Bryan Garner
02-02-2000, 11:48 PM
One thing your about your leak. It's not power steering fluid Power steering/hydraulic fluid is green and it has a kinda sweet smell to it. if its red it could either be transmission fluid or maby even engine oil I really don't know but I do know that it's not power Steering fluid. and one other thing the brake booster is hydraulic so it gets its fluid from the power steering reservior. I have a 1989 750 and I love it except my brake booster is leaking hydraulic fluid so I am going to have to fix it I have ordered a booster from Bavarian Autosport for about $325.00. Hope you like the car just as much as I like mine.

Andy Horton
02-03-2000, 08:17 AM
: 6. Guy drove the brake rotor on the front right to the ground. Im thinking autozone for right now. Anything special to consider? im not going to drive it with a bad brake ya know.<p>Sam: I would recommend that you consider purchasing your brake parts from Vertex in Miami, FL. They have served me well with my Porsche parts and have been even more helpful since I purchased my 750. They offer OEM parts at incredible prices. They can be contacted at (305) 442-2727. Ask for Charles. He seems very knowledgable. Their web page is at www.vertexauto.com.<p>Usual disclaimers apply - blah, blah, blah.<p>Good luck with your car. <p>Regards,<p>Andy.

John
02-03-2000, 07:21 PM
Sam<br>You didn't say if you had a wife, kids or SO!! I hope not, becuase it sounds like you will be having a birthing event of your own trying to get this road worthy!!<p>Mileage/motor status - Take the VIN number to the dealer and have them print the service history on the car. They will gladly do this for you as they lick their chops at the parts bill you will be racking up. Mileage at 40K - my guess is the motherboard behind the dash was replaced due to the capacitor problem and the engine is the original engine.<p>Heat - I know the radiator is leaking but try to bleed the entire system. This requires a bit of work. Open both heat controller to their max setting and open the bleed port on the thermstat housing (I think the 750 has one). Once you are satisfied you have all the air out check the operation of the heat system. If still no heat, you will need to work on the controls. Check to see if you have leaks in the heater core also.<p>Red fluid leaks - Better had not hope these are coming from the power steering system. This system runs the power steering assist, self-leveling rear suspension and the brakes(?). It uses a special oil, Pentosin, available at the dealer. ATF will damage the pump and cause the rear suspension difficulty in cold weather. Drain, Flush and change the filter in the reservoir before refilling.<p>Red Leak at cat-con - I think this is really ATF which is alright. Probably some seal on the tranny.<p>Big clunk - CV Joint or, more likely, sub frame bushings, common on this vintage. A long Sunday afternoon.<p>Muffler - Cheap?? Its a 750, bend over and pull down your pants!! And don't try an after market for one side. Because as soon as you do, it will set off the sensor on the right headrest which will deactivate the southside fuel pump and the next thing you know only four cylinders will operate!! Just kidding, but the engine management system is pretty sensitive and screwing with the back pressure could be a headache.<p>Home tune-up - Not much to do here. Air filter, plugs, not likely required, fuel filter, O2 sensors ($) and an injector rail blow down are the most effective items.<p>You didn't say if all the electro-gizmos are functioning, seats, windows, sunroof, security etc. These items can drive you to drink.<p>A good manual - Bentley just published an excellent E32 manual thats available from this board.<p>I know a properly running 750 is fun, but I think I would have gone with the 735 when they get this old. If you attack it diligently, you can get it back to as new. $4,000 should about cover the parts, don't know what you are going to do for paint?<p>But good luck,<br>John 88 735iL (226K)<br>79 320i (250K)<br>95 Disco<p><p><br><i>: Okay i've liked german cars since my vw's, so im putting the old mustang to the side for a few to hopefully make a decent reliable cooler looking car.<br>: I bought this 88 750il with about 140k (owner states motor/ecu were replaced with 92 model 40k miles ago, can't tell myself and no records so ill assume not) The computer says 040359 miles but the title 5 years ago says 90k so im thinking 140k miles by now at least. Heres a list of problems. Please email+post any suggestions on myself saving money first off then ill take it to a shop to fix the rest.<p>: 1. Heat doesn't work. Car is warm, Coolant level is fine, there is a crack in the radiator on the left where the metal line goes in, new/rebuild radiator i know, but should produce Some heat?<br>: 2. Bad red-fluid(power steering i assume) leak near the lower left front engine. Guy says the power steering/ride-leveler uses special fluid and not to use power steering/tranny fluid. Great. Any tips on isolating this leak while we're here?<br>: 3. Big clunk on right rear end during middle-hard acceleration, feels like somethings either real loose or broken specifically on the right side. Car handles fine, but this sounds serious.<br>: 4. very small same bright-red fluid leak dripping on the right cat converter. Does this car share tranny/ps fluid across the board? One would think a tranny of this age would have more burnt fluid that the bright red thats leaking out.<br>: 5. Muffler shot. Any suggestions im not looking to replace the cat-back or anything, just cheap similar to original.<br>: 6. Guy drove the brake rotor on the front right to the ground. Im thinking autozone for right now. Anything special to consider? im not going to drive it with a bad brake ya know.<p>: I can live with this power steering leak & right rear clunk for a few days, but i'd like to get the breaks and HEAT!!(ATL is so cold lately). I'm hoping if i can spend around $4000 including a door dent and paint job i'd have a really nice Black(ugly beige metallic now) 750il for about $7k invested. Motor and tranny seem strong, however it does miss, and churns some black smoke out during load. Hows the difficulty on home-tune-up, and cost. Plugs(look like a bitch to change), rotor(? Does it use one?) cap, air filters, oil(smells a little gassy, better change it quick), etc. Any tips. Definite fixur upper and thats why i only paid $3000 for it but the interior is in good shape. I almost bought a really beat up 88 735i for the same amount a week before. Now im glad i waited to get the 750il, the engine looks much cooler, and seems to be a lot smoother than the 6 cylinder. I need to kill the last owner for putting a bad bondo job on the left rear door, shoulda just left the paint+dent in place. ugh.<p>: Please email a copy to rigor@mediaone.net so i can get started fixing this bugger and drive it around as safely as possible soon.<p></i>

Gilbert
02-04-2000, 06:33 PM
I'd replace the front rotors and pads, not too expensive, work on the radiator and maybe replace if necessary, but then I'd be patient and just read this board and explore options for a month or so. Get together a list of things to fix, their price, labor price, etc., and just see how high it gets. See if a dealer will do a diagnosis and make a list for you. It would be worth a hundred bucks or so to have a dealer do that. The repair costs may be way more than the car would ever be worth. Like, it could be $10,000. If so, just drive it without all the gizmos working for a while, then sell it. Sell it to the guy on the post above whose motor went and who is finding prices of $5,000 and up for a rebuilt engine. <br>750's are great fun to drive but expensive to keep in top condition. Most people quit maintaining them when they decide to sell.<br>Anyway, good luck. <p><br><i>: Okay i've liked german cars since my vw's, so im putting the old mustang to the side for a few to hopefully make a decent reliable cooler looking car.<br>: I bought this 88 750il with about 140k (owner states motor/ecu were replaced with 92 model 40k miles ago, can't tell myself and no records so ill assume not) The computer says 040359 miles but the title 5 years ago says 90k so im thinking 140k miles by now at least. Heres a list of problems. Please email+post any suggestions on myself saving money first off then ill take it to a shop to fix the rest.<p>: 1. Heat doesn't work. Car is warm, Coolant level is fine, there is a crack in the radiator on the left where the metal line goes in, new/rebuild radiator i know, but should produce Some heat?<br>: 2. Bad red-fluid(power steering i assume) leak near the lower left front engine. Guy says the power steering/ride-leveler uses special fluid and not to use power steering/tranny fluid. Great. Any tips on isolating this leak while we're here?<br>: 3. Big clunk on right rear end during middle-hard acceleration, feels like somethings either real loose or broken specifically on the right side. Car handles fine, but this sounds serious.<br>: 4. very small same bright-red fluid leak dripping on the right cat converter. Does this car share tranny/ps fluid across the board? One would think a tranny of this age would have more burnt fluid that the bright red thats leaking out.<br>: 5. Muffler shot. Any suggestions im not looking to replace the cat-back or anything, just cheap similar to original.<br>: 6. Guy drove the brake rotor on the front right to the ground. Im thinking autozone for right now. Anything special to consider? im not going to drive it with a bad brake ya know.<p>: I can live with this power steering leak & right rear clunk for a few days, but i'd like to get the breaks and HEAT!!(ATL is so cold lately). I'm hoping if i can spend around $4000 including a door dent and paint job i'd have a really nice Black(ugly beige metallic now) 750il for about $7k invested. Motor and tranny seem strong, however it does miss, and churns some black smoke out during load. Hows the difficulty on home-tune-up, and cost. Plugs(look like a bitch to change), rotor(? Does it use one?) cap, air filters, oil(smells a little gassy, better change it quick), etc. Any tips. Definite fixur upper and thats why i only paid $3000 for it but the interior is in good shape. I almost bought a really beat up 88 735i for the same amount a week before. Now im glad i waited to get the 750il, the engine looks much cooler, and seems to be a lot smoother than the 6 cylinder. I need to kill the last owner for putting a bad bondo job on the left rear door, shoulda just left the paint+dent in place. ugh.<p>: Please email a copy to rigor@mediaone.net so i can get started fixing this bugger and drive it around as safely as possible soon.<p></i>


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