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dang
06-01-2000, 06:05 PM
<br>Once I figure out which compressor, receiver/dryer, etc. to use, can I buy the R134a myself or do I have to have it charged by someone else? I can get the hardware needed to do it myself, just wondering about the freon.

Jim Baron
06-02-2000, 01:22 PM
There are kits available from Interdynamics which don't require changing anything and only need outside help to purge and evacuate the system, and I've used two of these (on an '83 Toyota and a '90 SAAB) with complete success (no problems or loss of efficiency after two years of use), but the professionals seem to want to spend money in the 4 figure ranges changing everything except the car body itself. I think a moderate and honest assessment of the situation is offered at www.delanet.com/~pparish/retrofit.htm<p>

dang
06-02-2000, 04:59 PM
<i>: Hmmm, let's see. You've done it twice with great success, and the one's saying that all the parts need to be changed are the one's selling and/or installing them. I'm all for trying it. I may find a rotory compressor instead of the boat anchor York tho.<br></i>

Jim Baron
06-02-2000, 06:17 PM
<i>: : Hmmm, let's see. You've done it twice with great success, and the one's saying that all the parts need to be changed are the one's selling and/or installing them. I'm all for trying it. I may find a rotory compressor instead of the boat anchor York tho.<p></i><br>And be sure to follow directions precisely -- for instance it takes less 134 to develop the same system pressures, and if you put in as many cans as you would R12, you'll probably cause leaks; the recommended fill is 80% of the R12 amount in most sources. I also recommend the Interdynamics kits which contain a stop-leak/leak tracer additive can and use something other than PAG type oil, a polyol ester, I believe, which is much more compatible with any residual mineral oil left behind in the system. I believe the horror stories often come from bad reactions between PAG oil and poorly flushed and evacuated systems.

Roger B
06-04-2000, 05:23 PM
<i>: : : Hmmm, let's see. You've done it twice with great success, and the one's saying that all the parts need to be changed are the one's selling and/or installing them. I'm all for trying it. I may find a rotory compressor instead of the boat anchor York tho.<p>: <br>: And be sure to follow directions precisely -- for instance it takes less 134 to develop the same system pressures, and if you put in as many cans as you would R12, you'll probably cause leaks; the recommended fill is 80% of the R12 amount in most sources. I also recommend the Interdynamics kits which contain a stop-leak/leak tracer additive can and use something other than PAG type oil, a polyol ester, I believe, which is much more compatible with any residual mineral oil left behind in the system. I believe the horror stories often come from bad reactions between PAG oil and poorly flushed and evacuated systems.<p></i>I changed mine over last week. I pulled the York, dumped the old oil, installed the valves, recharged to about 80 percent. It blew cold air in the Georgia heat yesterday.


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