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KEF
08-07-2003, 11:26 PM
I just finished the free camber adjustment tonight - it is a fairly easy mod, and the results are noticeable immediately. As simply as this was I should have done it sooner! Here is a quick photo summary of the job:

Getting the front end off the ground -

<img src="http://members.roadfly.org/KEF/Camber_1_On_Jacks.jpg">


There was Blue Loctite on the studs, so I used the same when I secured everything -

<img src="http://members.roadfly.org/KEF/Camber_2_Blue_Loctite.jpg">


Here is the original position:

<img src="http://members.roadfly.org/KEF/Camber_3_Original_Position.jpg">


Here is the position after adjustment:

<img src="http://members.roadfly.org/KEF/Camber_4_Modified_Position.jpg">


Here is everything secured w/ Blue Loctite in place:

<img src="http://members.roadfly.org/KEF/Camber_5_Secured.jpg">


The passenger side is a little more difficult because I could not get the cap off the strut tower without removing battery terminal outlet. Here are a few pics showing how I removed (lifted) it.

<img src="http://members.roadfly.org/KEF/Camber_6_Terminal.jpg">

<img src="http://members.roadfly.org/KEF/Camber_7_Terminal2.jpg">



Here is the result change from the original position:

<img src="http://members.roadfly.org/KEF/Camber_8_Results.jpg">


And finally - here is everything buttoned up - really, an easy job!

<img src="http://members.roadfly.org/KEF/Camber_9_Finished.jpg">


Cheers,
<br><img src="http://members.roadfly.org/kef/Night4_Sig_R6.jpg">

Go Buckeyes!

AEsco48
08-07-2003, 11:37 PM
<br>





-Andres Escobar


"Not all ///M owners are ///M Drivers"

R.I.P. Sabre....you will not be forgotten! 4/5/03
Miami, FL

KEF
08-07-2003, 11:41 PM
to what I have read here, approximately -1 to -1.5 degrees.

Cheers,<br><img src="http://members.roadfly.org/kef/Night4_Sig_R6.jpg">

Go Buckeyes!

cbailey781
08-07-2003, 11:41 PM
Here's the alignment specs for front camber: ranges: -1.3 to -0.7

I'm assuming more negative is better...<br>


<img src="http://members.roadfly.com/cbailey781/signature.JPG">

AEsco48
08-07-2003, 11:43 PM
on the street, unless you are geting major understeer through a corner<br>





-Andres Escobar


"Not all ///M owners are ///M Drivers"

R.I.P. Sabre....you will not be forgotten! 4/5/03
Miami, FL

AEsco48
08-07-2003, 11:44 PM
south florida...i dont know what type of roads you have in ohio<br>





-Andres Escobar


"Not all ///M owners are ///M Drivers"

R.I.P. Sabre....you will not be forgotten! 4/5/03
Miami, FL

jsirota
08-07-2003, 11:45 PM
I measured before and after. I only got about .2 (from -0.8 to -1.0).

cbailey781
08-07-2003, 11:49 PM
<br>


<img src="http://members.roadfly.com/cbailey781/signature.JPG">

need for a realignment?....Vincey2kr1
08-07-2003, 11:50 PM

KEF
08-07-2003, 11:50 PM
were actually right of center - going towards -0.7 degrees.

All I know is that the change did make a noticeable difference. I have a park close to my house and I could practically drive it in my sleep - I know how I could drive the turns.

I drove the turns that exact same way tonight (same speed) - twice - and the car was much more stable -

Cheers,<br><img src="http://members.roadfly.org/kef/Night4_Sig_R6.jpg">

Go Buckeyes!

KEF
08-07-2003, 11:51 PM
<br><img src="http://members.roadfly.org/kef/Night4_Sig_R6.jpg">

Go Buckeyes!

KEF
08-07-2003, 11:52 PM
<br><img src="http://members.roadfly.org/kef/Night4_Sig_R6.jpg">

Go Buckeyes!

cbailey781
08-07-2003, 11:52 PM
and do you move the drivers side inward and the passenger side outward?<br>


<img src="http://members.roadfly.com/cbailey781/signature.JPG">

4thm3
08-07-2003, 11:57 PM
BTW the old e36m3 trick was to swap the tophats.

KEF
08-07-2003, 11:59 PM
car. You basically get the front end up on jack stands. Then put a jack under the wheel and jack it up until you start to lift the wheel.

Then you stop and unbolt that side. With the 3 nuts off the strut tower you lower that wheel to take pressure off it - making sure not to drop the studs through the tower.

Then you push the top of the wheel in until the studs go to the left side (inside) of the tower.

Pump up the jack up a bit - install everything and button it up.

Done.

Cheers,<br><img src="http://members.roadfly.org/kef/Night4_Sig_R6.jpg">

Go Buckeyes!

KEF
08-08-2003, 12:01 AM
I didn't, this was the easy change....

Cheers,
<br><img src="http://members.roadfly.org/kef/Night4_Sig_R6.jpg">

Go Buckeyes!

StMedina
08-08-2003, 12:03 AM
the elongated holes...

for the street....i set camber at -1.5 and toe at 0.......for the track, adjusting camber to -2.5 will yield about 1/16 of toe out on each side....and that's a whole degree....

not precise numbers....just as a reference....could be a little more or little less....but that's what my memory best recollects.
<br><font color=maroon><font size=1><font>
<img src="http://members.roadfly.com/stmedina/snooksmall.jpg">

cbailey781
08-08-2003, 12:04 AM
<br>


<img src="http://members.roadfly.com/cbailey781/signature.JPG">

jsirota
08-08-2003, 12:04 AM
... so its 0.5 degrees total adjustability, perhaps. But you don't start max positive, so no one is likely to gain 0.5 by making this change.

I'm not challenging YOU directly, I'm challenging the common comment I see here that says you will gain 0.5 degrees by making this change. I didn't get that much, and I doubt anyone else will either.

KEF
08-08-2003, 12:06 AM
<a href="http://e46m3performance.com/installs/strut-top/">Strut Bearing Swap</a>

Cheers,
<br><img src="http://members.roadfly.org/kef/Night4_Sig_R6.jpg">

Go Buckeyes!

KEF
08-08-2003, 12:07 AM
just look at the pics - that is the driver side front wheel.

Cheers,<br><img src="http://members.roadfly.org/kef/Night4_Sig_R6.jpg">

Go Buckeyes!

KEF
08-08-2003, 12:09 AM
nothing I have read about this change indicated that it was necessary.

Thanks for the input -

Cheers,
<br><img src="http://members.roadfly.org/kef/Night4_Sig_R6.jpg">

Go Buckeyes!

StMedina
08-08-2003, 12:15 AM
but will it be enough toe change to warrant 80 to 100 bucks..

BIG BUT, getting the front aligned and giving yourself 0 toe would really help out turn in....1/16 out would be even better...you'd feel it.
<br><font color=maroon><font size=1><font>
<img src="http://members.roadfly.com/stmedina/snooksmall.jpg">

KEF
08-08-2003, 12:16 AM
Before

<img src="http://members.roadfly.org/KEF/Camber_10_Passenger_Before.jpg">

After


<img src="http://members.roadfly.org/KEF/Camber_11_Passenger_After.jpg">

Top of wheel in towards center of car -

Cheers,<br><img src="http://members.roadfly.org/kef/Night4_Sig_R6.jpg">

Go Buckeyes!

KEF
08-08-2003, 12:18 AM
Before

<img src="http://members.roadfly.org/KEF/Camber_3_Original_Position.jpg">



After

<img src="http://members.roadfly.org/KEF/Camber_4_Modified_Position.jpg">

Cheers,<br><img src="http://members.roadfly.org/kef/Night4_Sig_R6.jpg">

Go Buckeyes!

StMedina
08-08-2003, 12:20 AM
<br><font color=maroon><font size=1><font>
<img src="http://members.roadfly.com/stmedina/snooksmall.jpg">

mike_m3
08-08-2003, 12:21 AM
but with this small change an alignment is a total waste unless you want to make other changes - swap the tops and then I would align it as the additinal neg camber will be far greater than the .3 to .5 you likely get with this. still worth doing - its free, its quick, its easy, and believe it or not you can feel it..<br><br><br><br><center><a href="http://m3.madrussian.net"><img src="http://osbdesign.com/webpics/m3.jpg" border=0></a><br><br><br>

cbailey781
08-08-2003, 12:24 AM
for the right and 0.13 for the left....got to get my right camber adjusted tomorrow.<br>


<img src="http://members.roadfly.com/cbailey781/signature.JPG">

cbailey781
08-08-2003, 12:25 AM
<br>


<img src="http://members.roadfly.com/cbailey781/signature.JPG">

AEsco48
08-08-2003, 12:26 AM
highway on ramps
<br>





-Andres Escobar


"Not all ///M owners are ///M Drivers"

R.I.P. Sabre....you will not be forgotten! 4/5/03
Miami, FL

cbailey781
08-08-2003, 12:29 AM
<br>


<img src="http://members.roadfly.com/cbailey781/signature.JPG">

KEF
08-08-2003, 12:32 AM
Check out Whiskey Lane....

<IMG SRC="http://members.roadfly.com/kef/Meet2_Metroparks.gif" >

Cheers,
<br><img src="http://members.roadfly.org/kef/Night4_Sig_R6.jpg">

Go Buckeyes!

cbailey781
08-08-2003, 12:33 AM
<br>


<img src="http://members.roadfly.com/cbailey781/signature.JPG">

StMedina
08-08-2003, 12:36 AM
right toe...

works out to a little over a 1/16th of toe in....little more than 1/8 in total....tell them to set your toes at 0.....you will pick up more initial turn in....will not have any adverse tire wear...

the downside to 0 or toe out...is you will pick up more twitchiness at higher speeds 60 & up......i don't mind this...

<br><font color=maroon><font size=1><font>
<img src="http://members.roadfly.com/stmedina/snooksmall.jpg">

KEF
08-08-2003, 12:39 AM
<br><img src="http://members.roadfly.org/kef/Night4_Sig_R6.jpg">

Go Buckeyes!

KEF
08-08-2003, 12:43 AM
in a few weeks I may take it in just to get it checked to see what the real world difference is. Of course I don't have the before... but oh-well.

If and when I do I'll have it set between 0 or 1/16th - I'll do a little more reading first, then decide.

Thanks -
KEF<br><img src="http://members.roadfly.org/kef/Night4_Sig_R6.jpg">

Go Buckeyes!

cbailey781
08-08-2003, 12:45 AM
<br>


<img src="http://members.roadfly.com/cbailey781/signature.JPG">

4thm3
08-08-2003, 12:48 AM
He speculates that a 10" wide rim could fit the front; its been done by
Navid K. He's trying to get me to buy his 10" et25 BBS RC's (i have the
same rims on the rear for the street but 8.5x18 front RCs). It does require
lots of neg camber, between -3 and -3.5 depending on the width of the
tire shoulder... as brands vary.

BTW Nice writeup by Gustave. Dinan (who woulda thunk it) discovered the
top-hat swap in 96. i was one of the first... i was certainly the first with the
96M3 exhaust mod by Dinan, they took measurements off my exhaust (different
from 95M3 exhaust).

4thm3
08-08-2003, 12:54 AM
Don't have the specs handy, but before my first track event in my shiny
new E46M3 (at 3501 miles ...), i had it aligned by CustomAlignment for
as much neg camber as i could get and zero toe.

They discovered that my starting specs were asymmetric & outa spec.
just goes to show ya...

Element5
08-08-2003, 12:54 AM
<img src="http://members.roadfly.com/element5/roads.jpg"><br><br><center><img src="http://members.roadfly.com/element5/esig03.jpg"></center>

KEF
08-08-2003, 12:59 AM
at my dealership who is the only guy who I will let touch my car, he is the M guy. (I prefer to do everything I can myself)

Anyway, the other day I went up there to ask him about my rev limiter cutting in on me in first gear @ 7,600 rpm. I told him I was doing this camber change - his reply:

"Well, we haven't done too many alignments on these cars...."

You just never know what to expect when someone else works on your car....

Thanks again for the information -
Keith

<br><img src="http://members.roadfly.org/kef/Night4_Sig_R6.jpg">

Go Buckeyes!

StMedina
08-08-2003, 12:59 AM
i set to 0 toe with -1.5 of front street camber..

that way, when i go to -2.5 to -3.0 of camber...total toe comes out to 1/8 inch total toe out....that's at -2.5....-3.0 is a little more than that....

8 minutes roughly is a 1/16th...very roughly.<br><font color=maroon><font size=1><font>
<img src="http://members.roadfly.com/stmedina/snooksmall.jpg">

AEsco48
08-08-2003, 01:00 AM
with Shep we once went to his house to set the camber (Shep has a digital camber gauge) at max neg...I got -1.1 on one side and -1.4 on the other so we had to set both at -1.1....all cars are different...so right now if you have both sided maxed out in the elongated hole you might have -1 on one side and -1.4 on the other...and you donít want that difference

Not sure if itís worth getting a full alignment, even for the toe change ((((((unless by flipping the hats it has a different effect on the toe, then a standard camber adjustment))))))))

what you could do if you have a level surface where both front wheels are level is get a piece of wood that will fit level on the outer lip of the wheel...and get a bubble level and compare where the bubble is on both sides if the bubble is relatively in the same position for each side you are set !

my 1 cent<br>





-Andres Escobar


"Not all ///M owners are ///M Drivers"

R.I.P. Sabre....you will not be forgotten! 4/5/03
Miami, FL

KEF
08-08-2003, 01:01 AM
That's the kind of stuff I love to see on my nav....

Cheers,<br><img src="http://members.roadfly.org/kef/Night4_Sig_R6.jpg">

Go Buckeyes!

StMedina
08-08-2003, 01:02 AM
as you are...stick to him like glue...his help will be invaluable....

you've found that relationship that everyone needs....

give him info too..make sure its valid...and don't argue...you have a new friend.<br><font color=maroon><font size=1><font>
<img src="http://members.roadfly.com/stmedina/snooksmall.jpg">

Element5
08-08-2003, 01:03 AM
<br><br><center><img src="http://members.roadfly.com/element5/esig03.jpg"></center>

KEF
08-08-2003, 01:06 AM
for trucks - he has the tools to measure it digitally, we may do it this weekend. Take a look at Ced stock specs below -

I agree that we want to make things equal in a perfect world, but it's hardly anything to worry about.... especially if you look at the OEM specs, and the tolerance range.

Cheers,
Keith<br><img src="http://members.roadfly.org/kef/Night4_Sig_R6.jpg">

Go Buckeyes!

Element5
08-08-2003, 01:07 AM
<br><br><center><img src="http://members.roadfly.com/element5/esig03.jpg"></center>

AEsco48
08-08-2003, 01:08 AM
UN calibrated...its not even funny<br>





-Andres Escobar


"Not all ///M owners are ///M Drivers"

R.I.P. Sabre....you will not be forgotten! 4/5/03
Miami, FL

KEF
08-08-2003, 01:10 AM
business relationships works. He's got baseball tickets already, and I have shared my Blackstone report(s) with him.

Everyone need a guy like this on their side, I often stop in just to say hello and see how things are going.

Whenever I need something (usually torque specs) it's not a problem.

Cheers,<br><img src="http://members.roadfly.org/kef/Night4_Sig_R6.jpg">

Go Buckeyes!

KEF
08-08-2003, 01:14 AM
was jealous! But we all have to work with the geography of where we live... and Ohio is no Cali - we don't have canyons like that out here!

Cheers,
KEF<br><img src="http://members.roadfly.org/kef/Night4_Sig_R6.jpg">

Go Buckeyes!

gustave
08-08-2003, 01:15 AM
<br><img src="http://gsperformance.com/temp/gsp-cars.jpg" height=150 width=401>

4thm3
08-08-2003, 01:18 AM

gustave
08-08-2003, 01:19 AM
That's about the minimum.

My offset is 39.5mm up front to make the 10's work. You could probably go up to 41-42mm but the strut to tire clearance starts to get very tight.

Gustave<br><img src="http://gsperformance.com/temp/gsp-cars.jpg" height=150 width=401>

gustave
08-08-2003, 01:22 AM
Tires are Kumho MX 265-35-18.

There is easily room for a 275 (maybe 285?) but I like the gearing effect of the 265's right now. Plus they lower the car a bit without changing the geometry and losing travel quite as much.

Gustave<br><img src="http://gsperformance.com/temp/gsp-cars.jpg" height=150 width=401>

gustave
08-08-2003, 01:26 AM
then it's a simple calculation to determine how much sliding the strut in the slots increases camber. Maybe one of us should do that...

Gustave

<br><img src="http://gsperformance.com/temp/gsp-cars.jpg" height=150 width=401>

4thm3
08-08-2003, 01:26 AM
I could use another half-degree of neg camber to be safe... awful crowded
in the fender when i mounted the rear 10" with 275 S03's
(which have a wide shoulder) with only 2.75 neg camber.

For certain, i like the 265/35 setup on the track

KEF
08-08-2003, 01:32 AM
overall length and travel, but not @ ride height (the stock strut housing length on an M3 is 14.75" long with a total stroke of 6.5".).

If anyone has this info I'd love to do a quick calculation to figure it out once and for all...

Regards,
Keith<br><img src="http://members.roadfly.org/kef/Night4_Sig_R6.jpg">

Go Buckeyes!

gustave
08-08-2003, 01:33 AM
<br><img src="http://gsperformance.com/temp/gsp-cars.jpg" height=150 width=401>

4thm3
08-08-2003, 01:40 AM
I can see how a 10" 39mm offset would work, but the 10" RC's are 25mm...
pretty darn close to the fender. BTW, i have the 27mm offset 9.5 SSR Comps
with 265 PSCs up front, no rubbing issues, but its close with 'only' 2.75 neg camber.

jsirota
08-08-2003, 01:46 AM
You need not only the static length at the stock ride height, but you need to know where on the strut body the control arm pivots. Actually I think it's below the bottom of the strut body, from memory.

So the strut length doesn't exactly help. And this is a tough measurement to get, given that you have to do it while the tire is on the car and there is weight on the tire!

mike_m3
08-08-2003, 01:46 AM
<br><br><br><br><center><a href="http://m3.madrussian.net"><img src="http://osbdesign.com/webpics/m3.jpg" border=0></a><br><br><br>

KEF
08-08-2003, 01:54 AM
for that matter - to be technical, you will also need inclination angles, etc. to complete the geometry.

None of this we have, but all of it is possible to estimate with the correct tools.

Cheers,<br><img src="http://members.roadfly.org/kef/Night4_Sig_R6.jpg">

Go Buckeyes!

LandShark1
08-08-2003, 02:12 AM
<br>
Happiness <b>IS NOT</b> around the corner!!
Happiness <b>IS</b> the corner!!

s54mpwr
08-08-2003, 02:16 AM
when ever you change the camber or any other setting as drastic as this is, you need to get an alignment. Otherwise you most likely will get premature tire wear.

juno
08-08-2003, 07:59 AM
Gotta make another trip to LA soon.

juno
08-08-2003, 08:00 AM

topaztony
08-08-2003, 08:05 AM
the strut from accidentally falling down and out of the holes? Is it really necessary to completely remove the three nuts?<br><img src="http://members.roadfly.com/topaztony/Topaz_Tony.jpg">

topaztony
08-08-2003, 08:06 AM
<br><img src="http://members.roadfly.com/topaztony/Topaz_Tony.jpg">

KEF
08-08-2003, 08:33 AM
take out to do the adjustment. In order to get to it, you have to remove the strut brace cap, which means taking off the three nuts.

Keeping them on would also make it difficult to determine where in the slots you actually are.

Regards,
Keith<br><img src="http://members.roadfly.org/kef/Night4_Sig_R6.jpg">

Go Buckeyes!

KEF
08-08-2003, 08:39 AM
If you are so certain, please convince me - technically - that my toe is now out of spec.

I am sure it changed *slightly*, are both tires dead even at *zero* - no probably not, but I am having trouble believing that it's enough to be considered a problem.

KEF<br><img src="http://members.roadfly.org/kef/Night4_Sig_R6.jpg">

Go Buckeyes!

topaztony
08-08-2003, 09:29 AM
<br><img src="http://members.roadfly.com/topaztony/Topaz_Tony.jpg">

shep01
08-08-2003, 09:56 AM
there are variations from car to car - i have played with at least 5 different cars on this subject. using up all the available adjustment, by simply pushing the strut in, will yield mixed results with the average around -1.3. You have other options. I trust you have seen/heard/researched/guessed that with the set pin removed, you can drop the strut out of the perch and rotate it 120 degrees. This will yield far more camber - usually between -2.5 and as much as -3.0. A bit much for the street, and can be a bit much for the track as well.

your conclusion as to what you now have as a result is likely correct, you are also correct that you do not need to bother with an alignment. All you have done is make the front toe better, albiet slightly. there was a comment about differences on each side. having a benchmark is also, ultimately necessary, so you remain consistant as to the placement, within the slotted openings, and thus, the easiest thing to do is push both sides all the way in. While there will be differences, it is unlikely , on the street , you will see any negative consequences. What saves you, is the security of the strut brace. Be sure that you only loosen one side at a time! Then you can achieve repeatable, accurate, results. You can also enlarge the slots! Very common, poor mans, camber solution. Again, because there is an adjustable strut brace, you will not have an issue setting and securing the adjustments. I know several racers who are doing the camber with enlerged slots - no issue at all, almost free, and litttle downside.

s54mpwr
08-08-2003, 10:14 AM
It's your money, if your tires wear out prematurely don't come back crying to us. I'm just telling you that by going from -1.0 to about -2.5, you ARE having an effect on your toe settings. But like I said, it's your damn money.

darkjay
08-08-2003, 10:15 AM
accidently falling off.: jack up the tire then take off the three nuts and the pin. Then put the three nuts back on and screw it in for just a few turns so it'll prevent the strut from falling out. Lower the jack, adjust the camber, jack it up again and put everything back together.<br>
<IMG SRC="http://members.roadfly.org/darkjay/jaym3_autox_sig.jpg" WIDTH="524" HEIGHT="171">

darkjay
08-08-2003, 10:21 AM
descriptions to mike_m3's DIY. Took me quite a bit of time figuring out how to remove the battery terminal.

Turns out I needed to use a screwdriver to pry that plastic pin out and lift the whole assembly up. Not fun trying to figure it out in a summer heat with a garage with barely adequate lighting in the middle of the night.<br>
<IMG SRC="http://members.roadfly.org/darkjay/jaym3_autox_sig.jpg" WIDTH="524" HEIGHT="171">

mike_m3
08-08-2003, 10:22 AM
he (and a bunch of other who have done this) has gone from about -.8 or -1 to somewhere between -1.2 to -1.5. Max net negative gain is .5 and more likely around .3 - .4 - the effect on toe settings is very small (and actually positive). but if he had gone from -1 to -2.5 like you said the change would be far more drastic as you said. to do that you have to swap the hats and probably end up with too much neg camber for the street anyway and def a need for an alignment.<br><br><br><br><center><a href="http://m3.madrussian.net"><img src="http://osbdesign.com/webpics/m3.jpg" border=0></a><br><br><br>

mike_m3
08-08-2003, 10:26 AM
you don't need to remove no stinken' battery terminal! LOL
anyway, its kind of a pain to work the bracket under the terminal on the passenger side but it can be done (probably quicker than having to take it off and replace it afterwards)
here's the link to the step by step for this - and yes keith definitely does take better pics than i do!
<a href="http://m3.madrussian.net/diy_camber.shtml">heres the link to the DIY</a><br><br><br><br><center><a href="http://m3.madrussian.net"><img src="http://osbdesign.com/webpics/m3.jpg" border=0></a><br><br><br>

darkjay
08-08-2003, 10:51 AM
DIY soon. Thanks for going through all that trouble making your website. I highly appreciate it.<br>
<IMG SRC="http://members.roadfly.org/darkjay/jaym3_autox_sig.jpg" WIDTH="524" HEIGHT="171">

KEF
08-08-2003, 11:39 AM
Uh, no, not from my information - yes, that would be drastic.

Yes, it is my money, don't come crying back to US - seriously? Give me a break -

Don't come at me with this BS. <b><I>Read</I></b> a little of the thread and then let <b><I>US</I></b> know what the max we can get from this adjustment is...

KEF<br><img src="http://members.roadfly.org/kef/Night4_Sig_R6.jpg">

Go Buckeyes!

KEF
08-08-2003, 11:41 AM
informative post, I appreciate your comments and information.

Thanks again,
Keith<br><img src="http://members.roadfly.org/kef/Night4_Sig_R6.jpg">

Go Buckeyes!

Tim C.
08-08-2003, 11:42 AM

KEF
08-08-2003, 11:44 AM
at all you could get the cap off w/o removing the terminal. Really, I don't know if something is different, but the cap is buried under the terminal and not coming off without raising it.

I'll take a close-up later and send it to you - maybe you can spot something different..... then again, maybe I'm just a wimp...... haha

Cheers,
Keith<br><img src="http://members.roadfly.org/kef/Night4_Sig_R6.jpg">

Go Buckeyes!

KEF
08-08-2003, 12:02 PM
As an example:

<img src="http://members.roadfly.org/KEF/Camber_12_Terminal3.jpg">

There just isn't any room to lift the hat over the studs.....

Cheers,
Keith<br><img src="http://members.roadfly.org/kef/Night4_Sig_R6.jpg">

Go Buckeyes!

s54mpwr
08-08-2003, 12:04 PM
left to right. Several of my friends have done this free camber increase and it gives about -2.5 degrees of camber. Now this is what I meant that you need an alignment. If all you did was move it, then it's probably very negligible.

KEF
08-08-2003, 12:08 PM
<br><img src="http://members.roadfly.org/kef/Night4_Sig_R6.jpg">

Go Buckeyes!

mike_m3
08-08-2003, 04:07 PM
on mine, i just lift up where the front bolt is (closest to the front of the car) and then rotate it up and out from under the battery terminal<br><br><br><br><center><a href="http://m3.madrussian.net"><img src="http://osbdesign.com/webpics/m3.jpg" border=0></a><br><br><br>

gustave
08-08-2003, 11:41 PM
"strut length" implies length from outer ball joint to upper strut top bearing. Please Josh, let's keep it at a reasonable level 8^)

Gustave

<br><img src="http://gsperformance.com/temp/gsp-cars.jpg" height=150 width=401>

spookm3
08-09-2003, 01:58 AM
...but when I had an alignment done after a tire replacement, I asked the shop to do this. They stated that the alignment was off when both sides were pushed to the inside; to make everything straight and aligned, one side was only pushed in halfway. The car has never been wrecked or anything...I guess they are not necessarily built straight.

<br>spook
Los Angeles, CA
<img src="http://members.roadfly.com/spookm3/LAGUNA.jpg ">


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