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MILLARACING
10-25-2003, 11:52 AM
I can't decide which pads to get for street/driver's ed/autoX. Help me out. I'm running euro rotors and stock calipers. Many thanks<br><a href="http://www.milla-racing.com">
<img src="http://www.milla-racing.com/sig.jpg"></a>

txse46m3
10-25-2003, 11:55 AM
Axxis Ultimates will be good for the street and autox. There is no pad that is good for all 3. Swap in a full race pad for track. Porterfield R4 worked good for me, but they last 2 track weekends MAX. Dont run the R4 on the street. Corrosive and loud.<br><img src=http://members.roadfly.org/txse46m3/haha.gif height=98 width=152>

4thm3
10-25-2003, 12:08 PM
Brakeman#3 work well for street/track, don't know about autox.

Carbotech Panther Plus's F&R are favored by some for street/track/autox.

Pagid Orange in front, Yellow in rear also good for street/track.

For pure track Pagid Black is highly recommended- but its a ceramic pad and rotors may need prepping before use.

There are many good pads and they have supporters & detractors. <br><!--EMBED SRC="http://members.roadfly.com/4thm3/acc3.mp3" hidden="true" autostart="true"-->

AEsco48
10-25-2003, 12:09 PM
best for the track and is fine for the street except for the dust...very rotor friendly and dust is not corrosive<br>





-Andres Escobar


"Not all ///M owners are ///M Drivers"

R.I.P. Sabre....you will not be forgotten! 4/5/03
Miami, FL

JIO
10-25-2003, 01:02 PM
Euro rotors are not that good for the track. I warped my Euro rotors in 2 track days.

Going back to my original rotors, I have far better braking and I don't have to worry about holes that quickly fill with brake dust, sometimes crack, and somtimes squeal loudly.

Most people get the drilled Euro rotors since they look cool. If you're really into track days, get slotted rotors or at the very least, go back to the original rotors.

txse46m3
10-25-2003, 01:08 PM
w/ heat but the euro's are fine. no cracks even. I do use a small screwdriver to poke out the holes when i change my wheels on at the start of the weekend.

Did you have them checked for runout? More likely pad deposits than actual warpage, no?

OEM euros are actually cast, not drilled...less prone to crack that way, or so I'm told. Aluminum hats are nice for keeping the hub cool.<br><img src=http://members.roadfly.org/txse46m3/haha.gif height=98 width=152>

4thm3
10-25-2003, 01:13 PM
See this a lot - that the BMW Euro rotors are cast not drilled. Only reference given is the Rogue website making this claim but with no reference. Not that i want them since i have AP's with 4 simple slots, but i'd sure like to see an official BMW document or an OEM vendor's website saying they provide 'em to BMW.

<br><!--EMBED SRC="http://members.roadfly.com/4thm3/acc3.mp3" hidden="true" autostart="true"-->

txse46m3
10-25-2003, 01:14 PM
<br><img src=http://members.roadfly.org/txse46m3/haha.gif height=98 width=152>

JIO
10-25-2003, 01:34 PM
from the pads. I too clean out the holes but they just fill in again. Way too much trouble for me.

txse46m3
10-25-2003, 01:37 PM
Fronts or rears? Stock pads? Brake duct plugs removed in front?<br><img src=http://members.roadfly.org/txse46m3/haha.gif height=98 width=152>

JIO
10-25-2003, 01:43 PM
I think the rears are the same pads Euro and US. I'm still under the impression that the rotors are drilled. They look nice but work terribly.

I run mostly at Portland International Raceway in Oregon which is very tough on pads, especially on the front straight which goes into a tight chicane...140 mph to 30 mph or so. Using my temperature gun after a cool-down lap I've recorded 600+ on the front rotors. Pedal gets a bit soft after a session, but no real fade.

4thm3
10-25-2003, 02:21 PM
Where did you hear that the Euro rear pad was the same as the US rear pad?

i'm running the Euro rear pad now (but will change). They looked different to me.<br><!--EMBED SRC="http://members.roadfly.com/4thm3/acc3.mp3" hidden="true" autostart="true"-->

txse46m3
10-25-2003, 02:25 PM
You may be generating more heat than you need to due to the pads...I put a LOT of heat into my rotors at MSR in Dallas and didn't warp them. I did fux my rear calipers.

Did you warp the front AND rear? wow!

I got a tip and used a dremmel tool w/ cutoff blades to take off the rear backing plates. Kept the e-brake covered, cut off just below the rotor face. The rears get 0 airflow on the inside rotor with the backing plates on.<br><img src=http://members.roadfly.org/txse46m3/haha.gif height=98 width=152>

4thm3
10-25-2003, 02:37 PM
Along the rotor face that is. I figured that with the open top, hot air would exit more easily and draw from the bottom part even tho it was more restrictive.

I started with the Dremel cut-off blades (the heavy-duty ones), but ended up using tin-snips. Filed down the rough edges with the dremel tho.

Anyway, i'm using those thermal stick-ons on my AP calipers next event, maybe i'll stick some on the rear backing plates too.

<br><!--EMBED SRC="http://members.roadfly.com/4thm3/acc3.mp3" hidden="true" autostart="true"-->

JIO
10-25-2003, 02:51 PM
the rears were the same.

4thm3
10-25-2003, 02:52 PM
<br><!--EMBED SRC="http://members.roadfly.com/4thm3/acc3.mp3" hidden="true" autostart="true"-->


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