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Topic Review (Newest First)

  • 01-02-2010, 07:34 PM

    Did the SeaFoam do the trick ???

    Can anyone provide an update on this thread and tell us whether the seafoam treatment was successful?

    - John
    '92 850i Twin Turbo
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  • 03-14-2006, 07:05 PM

    Good point. I'll change filter very soon.

    Patrick C 88 750 149K
  • 03-14-2006, 06:18 PM

    Very good. You may want to change the filter

    It sounds like a fair amount of gunk may have been cleaned out of the passages. I would also gues that the Seafoam has disapeared by now. It's pretty volatile stuff and I bet it has evaporated away.

    Keep the updates coming. When I added Seafoam to my oil I only kept in in for a one hour drive after I installed a new headgasket. I wanted to clean passeges but assumed that they were in relatively good shape.
    Greg Rea
    1986 E24 arctic blue turbo shark
    1989 E32/M30 white whale
  • 03-14-2006, 06:13 PM

    Very good. You may want to change the filter

    It sounds like a fair amount of gunk may have been cleaned out of the passages. I would also gues that the Seafoam has disapeared by now. It's pretty volatile stuff and I bet it has evaporated away.

    Keep the updates coming. When I added Seafoam to my oil I only kept in in for a one hour drive after I installed a new headgasket. I wanted to clean passeges but assumed that they were in relatively good shape.
    Greg Rea
    1986 E24 arctic blue turbo shark
    1989 E32/M30 white whale
  • 03-06-2006, 04:25 PM

    Still monitoring but I am not positive

    I especially don't like my idling quality, but that may be caused by the same root problem (perhaps fouled spark plugs) or different (uneven injector spray patterns).

    Oil level continues to lower although up to last Thurday the level was still above the dipstick minimun, and I have not added more oil. One theory to test is, lower oil level reduces unnecessary splashes.

    My next step will be to add Seafoam to new batch motor oil, when I change out the current batch of oil. There is some instruction as to how much Seafoam to treat how much oil on the side of bottle of product. However it doesn't say how long I should leave Seafoam there. Can it be a few thousand miles until the next oil change? Treating motor oil that way, I think, allows the chemical to reach the oil control rings from below, and rings that receive more splashes will naturally receive more Seafoam, so that's a plus.

    If you want to start some treatment, this step is easier to do than what I did a month ago.

    Yet another step is to change spark plugs to a hotter type. One candidate plug is F9LCR2, which is used in E38 750. Heat range is designated by the "9" in the plug model, which is one step hotter than the F8LCR used on M70. I will start with changing out only the three plugs in #1,2, and 3, which are the most problematic cylinders in my engine.Patrick C 88 750 149K
  • 03-05-2006, 09:21 AM

    Any luck??

    Patrick has your oil burning reduced?
  • 02-23-2006, 08:14 AM

    Re: Just did Seafoam treatment to pass.side cylind

    Thanks for the reply. Let me know how you go, hopefully it works!!!. Iv posted pics of my car in the past and there in this message board "photo galleries" in e32, second page under recaro seats. There great looking cars but a little problematic.
  • 02-21-2006, 06:51 PM

    Also disabled oil level sensor. Here's how.

    A few archive posts had taught about connecting a 1K resistor between the center socket and one of the outside sockets in the oil level sensor socket. However no one said for sure which side. Here's how to find out.

    Turns out you don't need to remember which side. The OBC will tell you. Just prepare a 1K resistor (any size above 1/4 Watt is fine) and insert it into the center socket plus any one side. Then climb out and get into the cabin and turn key to position 2. No need to start engine. Turn key back and pull key out. If you inserted in the wrong side the OBC will complain about a oil-level-sensor fault. Then you just finish the job by switching the resistor to insert to the opposite side. No OBC message if you inserted to the right side.

    More work has to be done to secure the resistor and preferably cover it up. I used self-fusable rubber tape. Also need to secure the plug side to the bracket with tie wrap or wire.

    I disabled oil level sensor because the Low-oil-level message came on too early and prompted me to top off motor oil. So far it's just my theory that oil level too high will cause more splashing onto the cylinder walls around the crank space.Patrick C 88 750 149K
  • 02-21-2006, 06:42 PM

    Just did Seafoam treatment to pass.side cylinders

    I got the hint from the Cadillac Northstar cylinder treatment instructions, and did similar with Seafoam yesterday.
    First I installed new spark plugs (not the ones shown in photos) hand-tight and warmed up the engine. Removed 6 spark plugs on the passenger side. Unplugged all the fuel injectors (or you can remove the fuel pump relays). Also disconnect the primary connections to HV coils because later on engine had to be cranked.

    Next I removed the splash cover from below and turned the crank with adjustable wrench to TDC. Need to use mirror to check TDC position underneath waterpump. My target cylinders were 1,2,and 3. At TDC #1 will not take any fluid so I turned crank 60 degree forward so #5 was at TDC.

    I measured 150cc of Seafoam with another glass bottle. Then used a small funnel and PVC tube to feed all amount into cylinders 1,2,3,4,6. Let it sit. Two hours later I used a mityvac hand vacuum to suck out the fluid. To dispense properly, I can mix the used solution with old motor oil. For some reason I couldn't suck out any fluid from #1 and 2. The PVC hose was probably too stiff. After twenty minutes I gave up. I stuffed a couple paper towel in front of each spark plug opening and got inside the cabin to crank the engine some 20 seconds. The missing fluid pretty much all being thrown out.

    Connected back the primary coils, fuel injectors, spark plugs and cables and I started the car. A bit rough at the beginning but smoothed out in a minute. Five minutes later it was white smoke time. I drove around the neighborhood for ten minutes in 1st gear. Lucky it was past sunset and nobody knew the smoke machine was mine.

    This moring I drove car some 70 miles. Idling is quite smooth although I cannot tell if oil is being consumed probably for a month. I'll report then.Patrick C 88 750 149K
  • 02-19-2006, 08:50 AM

    Having same problem!!!

    Im having the same problem with my engine. High oil comsumption. I initially beleived it was valve stem seals because it blows smoke after stand still and heavy acceleration, but after reco of both heads the problem was still there. If i take long trips where the engine sits on 2000rpm or higher there is no oil comsumption, but start stop trips 1 quart per 1300miles. Engine performance is good and compression test is good on all cylinders. I believe now that it is the oil wiper rings on the cylinders with fouled plugs. I cant understand how they could be stuck, i thought they would be worn and need replacing. Good luck with solving the problem ill keep reading your posts.Alex from Australia E32 750il 300,000km(180,000 miles)
  • 02-16-2006, 04:34 PM

    good way to pop a head bolt on a torque-to-yield

  • 02-15-2006, 08:29 PM

    what if you carefully overheated the engine

    pull the clutch fan out and run the car to a higher temperature- not crazy high but higher than normal and see if it free's up anything. The PO of my car had run the engine many many many times far too high (never realizing a coolent problem) and all the gaskets etc... are still fine.
  • 02-15-2006, 08:29 PM

    syntec blend, high mileage oil

    In the past three years I have been using the syntec blend and/or high mileage oils from various brands such as Castro or Valvoline. Usually runs $2 per quart at local Kragen. Every 5000 miles.

    I started adding the Lucas oil stabilizer last week but my strategy can change rapidly in the next few months depending on results of each repair approach.

    The shop owner that did my valve job has an opinion towards oil different than most. He commends Castro or Valvoline SAE30 on the M70 (in the mild Bay Area climate) but change every 2,500 miles.

    The ultimate fix would clearly be to remove the heads again and replace all the rings. That also means removing the upper oil pan to gain access to the rear pistons. I hope I don't need to do that...haven't recovered from the last project.Patrick C 88 750 149K
  • 02-15-2006, 06:59 PM

    What oil have you been using?

    You said "My particular case is probably due to the choise of motor oil that myself and the POs have used on this car."

    Obviously, this piques my interest in what the "choice of motor oil" has been! Given the apparent looseness in the oil control ring tolerance, it seems that Mobil One 15-50 is the way to go. I have zero oil usage with 15-50, but start to use some oil (up to 1 quart in 3000 miles) on occassion when using 10-40 in warm weather. This seems to support your theory (?)
  • 02-15-2006, 06:12 PM

    Re: I like the SeaFoam idea.

    I like the Cadillac idea because GM has a huge division with high paid engineers and their cure must have been tested to work for sure. 68 bucks is pretty cheap for a "Mechanic in a can" Your Compression no's are good, this is worth a try. Good luck.
  • 02-15-2006, 05:38 PM

    I like the SeaFoam idea.

    Perhaps you could unhook a vacuum line from the 1-2-3-4-5-6 bank intake and stick it in the SeaFoam can. If should suck it right into the intake plenum and pour it on your cylinders. If you deactivated that bank the cleaner wouldn't combust/vaporize and the potency of the treatmet would be increased. Is that possible? What I know about the M70 is just what I read here.

    Great write up. I love these kinds of posts.Greg Rea
    1986 E24 arctic blue turbo shark
    1989 E32/M30 white whale
  • 02-15-2006, 03:07 PM

    Oil control ring stuck on pistons 1, 2 and 3(long)

    First photo is from yesterday. Positions from left to right are 654321. They were new 2500 miles ago.
    Second photo is from four months ago before the valve job. Positions from left to right are 4321, and they had been used for six months.

    Plugs from Cyl 7 to 12 look like those of plugs 2 and 4, so the driver side bank has no particular problem and thus the plugs are not shown here.

    Compression (yesterday) 654321: 188, 190, 185, 195, 185, 195 psi. These numbers are encouraging as they suggest I haven't done anything too bad to the cylinders when I reinstalled the heads.

    What's informative when comparing the two sets of plugs in the photos is that plugs from 1 and 3 were already more oily and wet back then. Now plug #3 has been plagued with oil deposits, presumably coming out past the oil control ring in piston 3. Plug #1 is also wetter than the rest.
    Given that the intake manifold has been modified to not getting oil from the PCV valves, and new valve guides/valve stem seals everywhere(assuming good workmanship), and good compression numbers, I can only conclude that the oil control rings are failing fast in the past half year. It is also convincing that the front cylinders get more oil splashes from below because there is an oil baffle at the rear half of the M70 that minimizes splashes.

    My particular case is probably due to the choise of motor oil that myself and the POs have used on this car. Reading some webpages about the GM Northstar engines, they seem to have similar problem to mine.
    What I read is that the Northstar, being a high performance aluminum engine, is designed so that the oil control rings are not pressing tight against the cylinder walls. Thus it is easy to gum up by oil sludge and increase oil consumption, which even when normal goes as high as a quart every 3000 miles.

    At this point I am looking for some chemical that I can pour through the spark plug openings to soak the cylinders, hopefully to free up the oil control rings. Cadillac has a heat soak treatment in a Oct 03 service bulletin (#02-06-01-009C) to specifically clean piston rings.
    The Cadillac kit to go with the above bulletin costs $68. I am thinking if Seafoam or other chemical can be introduced directly to the cylinders and can similarly clean the rings. That approach is ten times cheaper and can be included as a regular maintenance (if it brings some improvements).
    Patrick C 88 750 149K
  • 02-14-2006, 06:57 PM

    Little PCV oil after 1K miles

    Continuing on my experiment to find out where oil is consumed, I inserted a glass jar in between the PCV valve and the intake manifold three weeks ago. The setup was described in the URL below.

    Oil is still being consumed as fast as 1 quart every 400 miles, but now I begin to know where it goes. I can almost be sure that the oil control rings of cyls #1,2, and 3 are not doing their job--this I'll report in another thread. Here I want to bring my PCV experiment to completion by showing that the glass jar has not collected much oil after approximately 1000 miles, as shown in above photo.

    I nevertheless like to keep the glass jar setup permanently (except for smog check time) since this is a good way to keep the inside of my intake runners oil free, and I expect the injector tips should be cleaner, too.Patrick C 88 750 149K

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