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  • 04-06-2008, 04:38 PM
    jhrobert

    One way is to remove the caliper and try to

    collapse the piston using a large C-Clamp. The piston should go back into the cylinder easily. If it doesn't go back in. Have someone step on the brake pedal easily to force the piston all the way out. Then you can see if it is pitted, has burrs or if it is rusted. Usually they get rusted. You can clean it up very easily with a fine steel wool pad. Make sure you coat the piston with brake fluid before inserting it back into the cylinder. Use a narrow rounded tool to work the boot back around the piston. Use the C-clamp to push the piston the rest of the way in. Make sure the piston goes into the caliper straight. I changed a lot of rotors in the early 80's on Ford products that were junk right from the factory. Your could turn them 2 -3 times and they would still warp the first time they got hot. Most of the steel coming here now is from China. I do not have anything good to say about the quality of their steel products. Also check to see if you can turn the wheel once you jac the car up. Check all your wheels. Maybe your master cylinder is not returning all the way back.
  • 04-06-2008, 02:39 PM
    pashtet

    HOW DO I? Check your calipers for sticking.

    I understand the theory: the rotors get hot, therefore they warp like any peice of metal... Right side caliper is new and I think thr right rotor still gets warped. Has to be the cylinder? How do I check that? How do I check calipers do not stick?
  • 04-06-2008, 01:24 PM
    jhrobert

    Check your calipers for sticking. This will cause

    your rotors to overheat and warp. Also check the Master Cylinder to make sure your brakes are releasing.
  • 03-21-2008, 04:29 PM
    Ian_Gillan

    Need a good e28 mechanic in Brooklyn, NY

    Can anyone suggest a good e28 mechanic in or around Brooklyn? Need to fix rough idle and rotors that keep warping every 2k. Thaks!

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