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Topic Review (Newest First)

  • 02-15-2009, 02:54 AM
    dakar2m

    yes the newer models do use engine driven fan but.

    it depends on the transmission type.

    manual transmission = electric fan
    automatic transmission = engine driven fan.


    Rick Kim member of CRS Club
    368S/1
    02 530ia
    Team Dork Racing #2

    '00 Dakar Duck CRS Edition

    Fear the DUCK! :D
  • 02-13-2009, 05:34 PM
    oktoberfest

    Fair enough, but...

    The cooling system is not complicated so failure modes are easy to understand. Without the engine-driven fan there is a single point of failure in the electric fan. However, the car doesn't have redundant radiators, waterpumps, or thermostats either.

    There is a legitimate concern that the electric fan won't have enough capacity to cool the engine in extreme conditions (e.g. stop and go traffic, summer heat, AC on). That's why the lower temp fan switch and thermostat are installed. I also used some Water Wetter to be extra safe. In my experience, monitoring the coolant temp with a ScanGaugeII, the system has more than enough cooling w/o the engine-driven fan.
  • 02-13-2009, 05:14 PM
    kristofergregoire

    guess not. but for me if i can't explain why it...

    doesn't need one but still came with one, I ain't touch'n it!
  • 02-13-2009, 01:35 AM
    oktoberfest

    Do the new models use an engine-driven fan?

    Looking on realoem.com it doesn't appear that the 335i uses one...
  • 02-13-2009, 12:21 AM
    kristofergregoire

    Read some posts. Opinions are 50/50 on whether...

    to do that mod or not. I myself would be concerned but I'm also not an expert on how the whole sha-bang works anyway...
  • 02-12-2009, 11:05 PM
    oktoberfest

    Do search for "fan delete mod"

    Engine-driven fan uses precious horsepower :-> Actually, the engine is quieter now. Also, no fan clutch to fail, or fan to destroy radiator if waterpump ever fails.

    Later BMWs use only the electric fan, so I think it's safe. Come to think of it, I know it's safe since my '89 VW GTI came from the factory with an electric fan only and it's been fine for 240K miles.
  • 02-12-2009, 06:16 PM
    Fluke/CapeCod

    Re: exactly... mine did the same too....

  • 02-12-2009, 02:53 PM
    kristofergregoire

    stupid question. why delete your fan?

  • 02-12-2009, 02:06 PM
    oktoberfest

    Re: what lvl mechanic job is that? rate 1 easy to 5hrd

    It took me me approx. 4 hours to replace the VANOs with a unit from DrVanos, the cam timing chain, tensioner, guide, and valve cover gaskets. Since I'd previously done the fan delete mod it was a little easier without a fan to remove first.
  • 02-12-2009, 12:36 PM
    kristofergregoire

    what lvl mechanic job is that? rate 1 easy to 5hrd

  • 02-10-2009, 10:50 PM
    dakar2m

    you could also do a vanos rebuild


    http://www.beisansystems.com/

    I bought a rebuild kit for my gfs 330i and will be doing it once the weather warms up (75F).

    It's much cheaper and you can also replace a lot of other seals in the process. Dr. Vanos option will be faster and will have the same end result at a bit higher cost.


    Rick Kim member of CRS Club
    368S/1
    02 530ia
    Team Dork Racing #2

    '00 Dakar Duck CRS Edition

    Fear the DUCK! :D
  • 02-10-2009, 07:17 PM
    kristofergregoire

    VERY NICE. I watched the vids online...

    the busted up, worn out sample sounds like my coupe...

    I'll need to secure some freelance work for this job!

    - jeeez
  • 02-10-2009, 06:43 PM
    oktoberfest

    Re: A Bmw mechanic blaims one my Vanos bits....

    I replaced my VANOS with a unit from www.DrVanos.com. Rattles all gone. I also replaced the camshaft chain tensioner and guide, which are easy to do while doing the VANOS. Dr. Vanos will rent the special tools that make the job fairly easy.
  • 02-10-2009, 03:01 PM
    kristofergregoire

    A Bmw mechanic blaims one my Vanos bits....

    for the clattering noise coming from the front of my car. The part ($$$$) that pushes oil in and out of the vanos system. medal part housed in an aluminum part... wears out, makes nasty noises! He says the spring tensioner makes a totally diff noise. He promised it won't hurt the engine but it will get louder with time...

    He also sighted that one of my lower pulleys is creating a noise...

    So I'm going to have him install my new radiator along with a hand-full of other parts at a very good (after-hours) price!

    I'll have to address the Vanos issue on another day... but at least I'll KNOW what needs replacing on rd 2.

    - kris

  • 02-09-2009, 07:17 PM
    kristofergregoire

    it would be from the front if it was the Timing...

    chain? It chatters only in the morning and stops once the engine is warm, yours did the same?
  • 02-09-2009, 05:55 PM
    Fluke/CapeCod

    Re: May not be valve noise..could be VANOS

    VANOS (timing chain) becomes sloppy and noisy. This has ben talked about here months back..

    I thought it was valve noise too, then someone here suggested I listen closer to where the sound is coming from and I pinned it doen to the timing chain being the noise maker.. In my case ijust replaced the timing chain tensioner spring to see if that would solve the problem and it has....
  • 02-09-2009, 12:21 PM
    kristofergregoire

    that's possible.

    since it is ALWAYS steamy hot in FL, the car may have been this way for quite some time.

    I wonder if it's somehow related to my chattering valves in the morning. it quiets down with fresh oil but it's only started chattering in the AM after 100kish. Once the car warms up it goes away completely but it sounds like A$$ as I idle through my parking lot.

    could this chatter be a sign of a tired oil pump?

  • 02-09-2009, 12:16 PM
    kristofergregoire

    i do have a radiator replacement job on the to-do

    Maybe pops and I can pull the thermostat out again and give it a look over.

    I mean, if the engine is running cold, it will effect performance and gas mileage but it won't blow it up right?

    boiling the t-stat sounds crazy but reasonable at the same time!

    It's better then running hot at least.



  • 02-07-2009, 03:28 PM
    mlobo

    How far from its normal position is the needle?

    It might be normal operation of your system in colder conditions. In the summer, my needle goes to the middle of the gauge and stays there. However, when it's colder out (not unusual here in CO) it will often reach only a couple needle widths from the normal center position, unless I'm driving it hard. I'm no expert, but it seems to me that our cars have quite a high capacity cooling system, and in colder conditions, it's more than necessary, so the needle stays a bit on the low side.


    Kevin 368s #19

  • 02-06-2009, 05:13 PM
    PaulR

    Re: yeah...I'm no pro mechanic. I'd just break it more

    I had thought to include what I might do to check things, but figured it'd sound mostly crazy. But here goes, just for grins...

    1) rap on the housing a bit
    * but don't break the housing! (that's the disclaimer)
    * this would be to seat the t-stat if it's got a slight "hang", leaving it open slightly.
    2) remove old t-stat
    * check for corrosion, foreign bits trapped at the seal, broken seal, bent parts, etc.
    * boil the t-stat in a pot and verify it opens/closes smoothly
    3) when all else fails, replace it.

    In any case, so long as the temp comes nearly (like 1 or 2 needle-widths) up to normal, you should be OK for most driving. <IMG SRC=http://mydrive.roadfly.com/photos/pic.php?u=73302r2fUS&i=2642><FONT FACE="Comic Sans MS" COLOR=Gray SIZE=+1>PaulR</FONT>
    <FONT COLOR=Black>'CCA Memb #8743
    '99 M-Coupe - Silver/Black
    '85 325e - my "Ol' Paint"
    '96 VFR750F - smoooth
    '86 Ducati 750-F1 - raw</FONT>
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