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  • 03-20-2009, 09:02 PM

    ...But my cable could not fit in the steel conduit

    Thanks for pointing out the E31 discussion, ladislav. I was following that thread, too. I would otherwise consider that option but I couldn't fit the replacement cable through the original metal conduit. The replacement was bought from a shop that specialize in car electronics/speedometer/alternator and I asked for one that can carry 140 Amp, which is what the 750 alternator can deliver. This is thus I didn't want to find a second, narrower, replacement.

    Mr. bmdoublesu constructed a replacement cable that routes around to a much greater extent than mine does. Besides, the E31 discussion confines to parts placements inside a E31 engine bay so I don't think the apparent conclusion applies readily to the E32. Some pointed out about the cable being too close to the strut tower or fender may short out in a collision and may risk starting a fire--I consider that thoughtful and will take a second look.Patrick C 88 750 159K
  • 03-20-2009, 12:01 PM

    don't route the cable in a different way

    see e31 forum for a lively discussion of this very subject.
  • 03-19-2009, 11:04 AM

    Shogun... Need your assistance re: welding cable

    Could you please tell me what is WTC22 Sq mm??? I would like to know what specs to should look for to get an adequate wire for the alternator cable replacement.


  • 03-14-2009, 11:39 PM

    Use heavier eyelets...,

    at least as heavy as original, and attach them better than banging them with an axe. That cable can carry lotsa current at times and those replacement eyelets look way too light.

    Not too good to fool with this stuff. Check the e31 board for the aftermath of a short caused by this exact cable on an 850 about a year ago.
  • 03-13-2009, 06:23 PM

    Alternator harness parts $20 or less

    I paid for a replacement cable from a transmission shop for $12; a few dollars for the connector to the B+ post. If you tell the shop keeper that you have a 140 Amp alternator they can make recommendation of cable size. 6, or 8 gauge, silicone jacket, etc. To couple the connector to the cable, you can use a blow torch and lots of solder, just like soldering iron on a circuit board scaled up (need some preparation for safety). I am not sure if simply hammering the connector's split tube section onto the copper strands is strong enough for the cable to stay. And I route the new cable outside the metal conduit and away from the engine.Patrick C 88 750 159K
  • 03-13-2009, 12:59 AM

    My canister had the same problem,had no clamps on

    the hoses. Hoses got older and started to leak. I cut the old hose off of the tubing and installed AT hose with clamps. AT hoses with hose clamps work well, on the low pressure side, of course. Here is number 1-927-463-6175. I keep it on my phone. It took me a long time to find AT or PS hose of the right diameter. I also did the same trick on my 97 M3. I do not remember the diameter, I did it a long time ago.
  • 03-12-2009, 06:46 PM

    I did it my + instructions inside
    also here:
    Replace charging cable between alternator and distribution post

    Shogun E32 Tech Tips:
  • 03-12-2009, 11:34 AM

    Alternator harness and pentosin leak 1990 750 iL

    Hello everyone, its been a long time since my last visit but my 750 keeps me faithful to roadfly.
    It seems like the alternator harness gave away. Apparently it costs approximately 700 dollars. If u look at it, it doesn't seem like much besides the fancy plug system for the oil sensor and the pain in the butt metal conduit to "protect" it from the heat, that also seems like it's a beast to take out since I would probably have to disassemble the left side of the engine to get to it.

    I was looking in the archives and apparently some people have recommended to cut the wires remove them, replace the alternator wire with another one and solder the oil sensor wire together. Some have suggested NAPA as a wire supplier and other haven't specified but they stated the same argument, to just replace the alternator wire and solder the other wire components of the harness. Is this a good way to go or should I get the original harness?

    If replacing it with another wire is a good way to go would anybody have any recommendations of what type of wire should I use, where can I get it, as well as soldering materials and technique? Any help will be appreciated.

    While I'm at it I'm also experiencing pentosin leak from the left side of the motor section I have already replaced one line to PS pump. This leaks occurs only in cold weather and it seems like it may be from one of the lines from the canister itself but not sure. Can anybody give me some insight in that?



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