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  • 05-22-2010, 01:14 PM

    Re: I suspect....

    Thanks Ja, I will check. My key has a button in the middle that has to be puched down to turn the key all the way to start position in the ignition, but I don't have an extra fob for an alarm. The first thing to come back on when I turned the key was the alarm though.
  • 05-22-2010, 10:28 AM

    I suspect....

    A wet imobilizer relay, or maybe you've got the dealer installed alarm module. Does your key have an alarm fob? As for the computer, they're pretty well sealed up. I've got a '97 with the battery in the trunk, the computer is in the compartment by the motor on the passenger side. Early '96 cars had the battery there.
    Good Luck!

    Z3_GoCar Racing
    My Auto Page
  • 05-22-2010, 09:41 AM

    Re: how to repair a flooded ZZ3

    THanks for that mechanicsc. I hope you are not right, I will let you know about the computer. Had not made it that far yet. Don't even know where the computer board is. IF it is bad though, it will probably be too expensive to repair. I will only attempt to rescue this car if I can do it with minimum expense. If too expensive, then I will take the advice to just sell the car in parts on ebay. Figure I can recover at least a thousand.

  • 05-22-2010, 07:41 AM

    Re: how to repair a flooded ZZ3

    I shudder more and more as I hear your reports, but since you're going forward with it, I'll help out the best I can...

    Radio: Don't worry about that just yet. Just means it lost power and you need to re-enter the security code. Has no bearing on the car not starting.

    Starter: Possible blown fuse or bad relay, but I'm betting that the car's computer is shot (might still have water in it? did you remove it and dry it out first?). That would prevent starting (Z3 keys have a transponder that sends a signal to the car's computer as an anti-theft device).

    Fuel: Shut off the supply to the engine by pulling the fuel pump fuse (F18). You would need to drop the tank to get everything cleaned out proper, but the TIS indicates that is a PITA on the Z3 (requires dropping the rear axle), so you might just want to clean it out in-place.

    However, since you have the interior out you should be able to get to the fuel gauge sender unit easy (its behind a removable oval panel behind passenger seat back) and siphon/pump out tank from there. You should also be able to siphon it out through the filler neck, but you have to be careful because there's a baffle in the filler neck that a hose can "catch" on when you try to remove it. Given what you have done so far, I would go for the fuel sender plate to get the gas out.

    Good luck.
    2002 Z3 3.0i
  • 05-21-2010, 07:12 PM

    Re: Actually, he asked both questions...

    Thanks for the tips. Is there a starter relay that may have shorted to keep the car from starting? When I tried to turn the key nothing happens so I wondered about that first since lights work.
  • 05-21-2010, 07:08 PM

    Re: Since you asked about WHAT to do...

    Thanks man. So far I followed steps 1 and 2. Water went thru intake for sure. Have to replace all filters, etc. Pulled plugs, but haven't been able to get the car to turn over, so I thought maybe there was a relay to the starter that may have blown. DOn't know where that is on this car, if it even has such. SO I will keep checking. Interior is ugly. But replacing seat foam and carpet seems like the easiest and cheapest potential problem. We will see.
  • 05-21-2010, 10:02 AM

    The radio code is no big deal yet

    Just a security code that you need to enter. If you don't have it, you should be able to get that from the dealer.

    Keep us updated on your progress. Maybe we'll all learn a lot.
  • 05-21-2010, 09:59 AM

    Most likely for me the attempted rebuild...

    would never be finished. Do as Mr. Tre suggests, maybe you'll get lucky. If your not that lucky, the least expensive and complicated option is to replace the whole car. The general consensus here is that the car is too severely damaged.

    I doubt that this would ever be worthy of paying an attorney, but filing a claim with the mall, would keep your options open and document your loss. At bare minimum there is the tax write-off, maybe recovery funds. At the extreme there would be small claims case that would take a few years. It is possible that the mall's carrier would issue a payoff to put it all to rest.

    Shoot there is always Judge Judy. Given the magnitude of the event...
  • 05-21-2010, 09:42 AM

    you may be right... but worth exploring

  • 05-21-2010, 09:35 AM

    Re: how to repair a flooded ZZ3

    Hey folks, I think maybe the starter or starter relay may have shorted out. Not sure because I haven't traced it with this car. Is there a relay or a breaker for the starter on the z3? I turned over the key but nothing happened. The isntrument cluster is working fine. The radio display came on with the word "code" and some blank spaces in the display. I thought maybe something wrong with the connection to the starter and so should start there. But do I need to do anything with that radio display first?

    Got all the water out of the oil pan (about a gallon came out with the oil.) Took out the spark plugs and could see where water has entered by way of intake.

    Going to tackle the fuel tank next. Is there a way to shut off supply so I don't pump any water into the engine? Is there a preferred way to empty that tank?
  • 05-20-2010, 05:19 PM

    Re: the pessimism is well warranted...

    Hey thanks for the feedback and recommends from everybody. I am struggling with that very delimma. I have 3 options. Either part the car out a little at a time on ebay. (Slow process).
    Or, buy a salvage car and replace all of my needed parts (assuming my engine and trans okay). Last, just take my time and repair each part one at a time.

    Don't think any chance of getting money from the mall. Would probably cost me 4K for a lawyer to get 5K for the car.
  • 05-20-2010, 03:25 PM

    Not worth the time...

    To put things in perspective, the most rain Nashville has ever seen in a month is about 15". A couple of weeks ago, we got (depending on area of town) 13"-18" over a period of two days. This wasn't a small flood event by anyone's definition. Latest damage estimates I've seen were just under $2bil.

    I don't see the mall paying for this and really don't see convincing a local judge or jury that anyone is to blame for this. 00 2.3
  • 05-20-2010, 12:33 AM

    I agree with Steve, it appears that the....

    garage owner AND the company that operates it may be liable.

    Check it out.

    Scott Pettit
  • 05-19-2010, 10:02 PM

    Actually, he asked both questions...

    2002 Z3 3.0i
  • 05-19-2010, 07:19 PM

    Re: how to repair a flooded ZZ3

    I have a ton of interior switches and an AC unit that we took off new cars to make racers out of them. Let me know if I can help
  • 05-19-2010, 04:32 PM

    Since you asked about WHAT to do...

    ..and not IF you should do it. Here's WHAT I would do:

    #1: before doing anything (particularly trying to start the car), drain the engine oil and refill. In case you got water in the crankcase this takes care of the bulk of it.

    #2: also before trying to crank the car, open up the air filter and see if there's water in there, also inspect the air filter and replace if it shows obvious signs of water damages. Chances are any water drained out the holes at the bottom of the air filter housing.

    #3: after #1 and #2 but before trying to crank the car, pull all 4 spark plugs, remove the fuel pump relay and crank the engine a few times. In case you got water in whatever cylinder had the valves open, you won't hydrolock (chances are the water drained in the crankcase through the rings by now). Also if the engine cranks you are on a good way...

    #4: put back the spark plugs and crank the car. If it starts, take it for a nice ride to get it hot and dry out any water there might be around. Not just wait for the water to get hot: you also want the oil to get hot (consider at least 30 mins of driving under load after the water is hot).

    #5: if the CEL comes on at any point, diagnose...

    You might also want to consider taking the interior apart to dry it as much as you can. You might not have any problems with rust because of the zinc bath the chassis went through, but mold could form in the wet spot.

    Don't pay attention to what everyone says: it's your car...

    1998 Z3 1.9 - few modifications here and there
    1999 Z3 2.8 - individual edition (British Traditional)
    2003 Z4 2.5i

  • 05-19-2010, 03:30 PM

    Agreed. If he parked it in a mall parking lot,

    they should keep some liability insurance for their own negligence or the negligence of the garage operator.

    Boston Green M Roadster
  • 05-19-2010, 11:47 AM

    Re: the pessimism is well warranted...

    Just my $.02 worth, if the major issue is that you don't have comprehensive coverage on the car and you are looking for the least expensive option, you'd be money ahead to buy a replacement car.

    Not to mention, that for most of us, this would become one of those projects that just collects dust.

    If you are handy enough to attempt rebuilding this car and you have the work shop space, you are handy enough to dismantle the car and sell the high value parts. That will offset a big chunk of the cost of replacement.

    Then just pay to have what is left of the car towed to salvage.

    I don't know if it would meet with any result, but it might be good to file a claim with the garage operator. They will tell you the first time you ask that you park at your own risk, but, with the clogged drain, there is a negligence issue here that might be overriding. Maybe, maybe not, but worth exploring.
  • 05-19-2010, 02:36 AM

    the pessimism is well warranted...

    Based on your description, your engine probably has water in it. If it has water on the inside, it has the silt too.

    The silt residue you are seeing everywhere else is very likely to be in your engine (carried through the exhaust pipe -- the air filter might filter the silt on the intake side if it remained intact), and getting all that grit out of your engine is going to be darn near impossible without stripping it down and rebuilding it. Not to mention all the damage that grit will cause while it is in your engine if you get it running.

    I admire your optimism, but having a car be in a flood is about the worst thing that can happen to a car. I'd rather have one catch on fire.

    Having said all that, if you do manage to get it running again, my advice is still the same -- get rid of it as fast as you can and get another one that hasn't been flooded. The long-term prognosis for a flooded car is not good.

    Good luck.mechanicsc
    2002 Z3 3.0i
  • 05-18-2010, 12:51 PM

    a lot of pessimism

    thanks for all the warnings, etc. Some really helpful info too. Here is the history. Car was flooded when drain in mall parking lot clogged. Sat for about four hours in the high water before it drained down. No tow trucks avaiable to drag it out. Round two next day same drain same clog. Sat for another 3-4 hours before i could wade in and push it out myself. So water was muddy. Lots of silt residue as some of you noted. But I think the water only made it to top of engine for a very short time. So I am keeping fingers crossed.

    Beemer is a 1996 z3. I have 5 vehicles and it is the only one without comp coverage. What are statistical odds that it would be the only one in the flood? (Answer: 100%) Anyway being a 96, the insur company would have given me very little for it. I figured it would take 3-4K more to replace it with a newer upgrade. I think I can rescue it for much less, if the computer and engine are not shot. We will see as I get into the job. I've got the time and already have dirt under my fingernails.

    As soon as I can download I will poast some pics of the progress.
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