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  • 08-04-2010, 12:09 PM

    Re: Butt-strutt clearance issue...? comments please.

    Went around a curve at night to find a dead dog on the road. Couldn’t avoid it so I thought I could clear it. It got caught on the butt strut and I dragged the carcass down the road a ways. Never bottomed out on anything or any big clinks.
  • 08-04-2010, 09:40 AM

    Re: I just almost ripped my butt-strut off my car

    So I got home last night and took off my butt-strut, body brace, and x-brace. The butt-strut and x-brace sustained the most damage.

    The only damage (I know of so far) done to the car was to the two bolt holes where the x-brace and body brace attach. I assume that those holes were threaded, but now they are torn up and won't hold a bolt. Anyone know of an option to fix this?

    Here are some pix.

    This should be straight

    The long bar here should be straight too

    This is the bolt that was holding the x-brace to the body brace to the frame.
  • 08-04-2010, 03:05 AM

    My body brace did it too....

    many time so I removed it.

    The butt strut does it from time to worries.

    Scott Pettit
  • 08-03-2010, 05:22 PM

    Re: Butt-strutt clearance issue...? comments please.

    I usually bottem out on the body brace. Sounds worse than it is. At least I know I'm on solid angle iron vs. underside of my car. I have an 02 M roady, so the clearance is a bit less than other Z3s.
  • 08-03-2010, 01:00 PM

    Re: I just almost ripped my butt-strut off my car

    Here's some of the damage. What do ya'll think?

  • 08-03-2010, 10:23 AM

    Re: The studs do require a 27mm extra deep socket

    Also good info to know. I might be asking for your email/phone in case I get into this and have a question or two.

    I'll let you know.

  • 08-03-2010, 09:51 AM

    The studs do require a 27mm extra deep socket

    to remove. You'd need a socket at least 5 inches or longer.
  • 08-03-2010, 09:43 AM

    Re: Worst case, you've bent the two mounting studs

    That's good to hear. They don't look too damaged, but there probably are. At least I've dropped the sub frame before on my 1.9 and know what it entails. I guess I could do the weld on Ireland camber and toe kit while I've got the sub-frame out. Right now I'm just curious to see how hard it will be to get the struts off.

    I also might have stripped the hole at the x-brace/body brace intersection. I guess that can be re-tapped and a bigger bolt installed. Still a process.

    Anyone around DC have a lift or know of one I could use? It'd be easier than laying on the ground.

  • 08-03-2010, 09:21 AM

    Worst case, you've bent the two mounting studs

    Relatively cheap part to replace but you'll have to drop the subframe.
  • 08-03-2010, 09:08 AM

    I just almost ripped my butt-strut off my car

    On my commute this morning in DC, I accelerated to get around some traffic and a bad man-hole cover (that was significantly raised) slammed into my butt-strut.

    I began hearing a scraping sound and pulled over immediately. It was my passenger side body brace bar. The man-hole has bent the butt-strut back right in the middle. It's twisted and I'm sitting here at work wondering what other damage I've caused.

    I've always been a little nervous about the clearance, but with the crappy roads in our nations capitol, my fears have been realized.

    I'll update you with more details when I get under the car.
  • 09-03-2004, 05:11 PM

    Re: Butt-strutt clearance issue...? comments please.

    I installed the butt strut, body brace, and the front strut (the famous trio) on my '97 2.8 Z3, with stock suspension, about a couple of months ago. It was a very good investment! The car really handles a lot better than before, and feels more solid. I have hit either the body brace or the butt strut (couldn't figure out exactly what hit) a couple of times, but I feel it was due to "special conditions" (going up on a steep hill coming out of a parking lot and then getting onto a flat main road). Also bottomed out on a speed bump once, but all in all no problems.

    Keep it installed, you'll hate yourself if you take it off! (the butt strut and body brace that is)
  • 09-03-2004, 04:12 PM
    Cookie (SFO)

    how's your pinging doing?

    And was that Santana 30/30 the one Kevin used to have over at Coyote Point?
  • 09-02-2004, 10:25 PM

    Re: Never had any problems

    Stock 2001 2.5i - put Butt Strut on in June and no problems until this week. Standard install. Scraped on an abrupt speed bump at low speed yesterday, then on a gravel road tonight. Both times really surprised me, especially since I was in 1st gear and going slowly so had plenty of time to see ahead. I really hope nothing was damaged - gotta' get it on a lift tomorrow.

  • 06-29-2004, 05:53 PM

    Thanks Paul!

    OK. Now I order some shocks and keep the factory springs. This is my next improvement for the car. Now all I have to do is find someone to put the shocks on for me. :)

    You have to respect these guys for their level of customer service and the quality of their struts.
  • 06-29-2004, 03:48 PM
    Paul & the Strong-Strut Team

    our comment on your "springs" question

    We are not big advocates of any spring that lowers the car even though we carry the Vogtland springs that do just that. We feel the disadvantages outweigh the advantages unless the car is used in competition or that the owner knows in advance, what the drawbacks are. Lowering the car does improve handling as it lowers the center of gravity and the shorter and firmer springs resist body roll. This equates to a faster steering response as does the increase in negative camber, also a byproduct of lowering the car. In most cases, ride comfort will be degraded and tire wear will increase. Naturally, ground clearance will suffer as well and this can be important for the front air dam as well as clearance in the rear should you happen to have a rear strut brace.It also becomes a factor in a "stock" car when driving over speed bumps. We encourage a change in shock absorbers as they offer some of the benefits of the shorter, stiffer springs without the drawbacks. In our opinion and experience, the ideal setup is a set of Koni adjustable shocks (or equivilant) and available body bracing accessories to prevent the sheet metal from flexing (please excuse the commercial aspect) The experts that understand these dynamics tell us the first thing to do is to start with a stable platform (firm up the chassis) then add whatever suspension parts you feel you need to achieve the level of comfort and performance compromise you strive for. In many cases, firming up the chassis sheet metal and a good set of shocks is the ideal solution and does not cost a fortune to do it.
  • 06-29-2004, 01:00 PM

    Should the Springs be changed at the same time?

    If so, to what?

    Thanks! See how good the service is from ? Why would anyone buy struts from anyone else?
  • 06-29-2004, 12:10 PM
    Paul & the Strong-Strut Team

    get the Koni sport adjustable

    so you can set the ride quality the way you like it
  • 06-29-2004, 12:01 PM

    Have the rails & Butt and whack \'em all the time

    Don\'t worry about it though, they are made of heavy steel, nothing dainty or elegant about them.

    Would rather whack aftermarket bolt on stuff than the chassis...

    I\'m sure the Z will fall apart before the bars fail...Steve H

    Oakland CA
    1999 MZ3:
    Can share experience with the following Mods:
    Sharked, Conforti CAI, Strong Strut Butt & Body, BAV Tower Brace, CAI, Stone Guards, Whalen Knob, hard-Wired Vallentine 1, Soft Boot, Goodyear F1-GS-03, DRLs, Upgraded Horns, Bilstein Sports (Boge's toast @ 23k: No rebound, dead spots etc), E46 M3 Cabrio RSMs, strong strut aero ducts, whalen seat bushings, Redline MTL in trans,Redline 75W140in diff,Amsoil 5w-30 in mill,clear corner lenses,cheapo painted bulbs, Fan removal Mod, UUC trans enforcers (-Removed UUC's: too much vibration: Rogue units installed NICE), UUC Under-Drive Pulleys,
    Cheapo Sub FIX!, Plasma Coils, All Metal Radiator

    2003 325 XiTA Snow Mobile:
    Sport/Premium/Xenon/Cold Weather/Auto/Black-Black

    Ex-rides: BMW: E30 M3, 2002 tii, Bavaria 3.0, 528i (E12)
    Other: 62 Dodge Truck, 63 MBZ 190D, 68 GTO 400 HO 4 spd, 70 Triumph GT6, 72 Datsun 510, 80 MBZ 300D, 99 Ford F350 Powerstroke (too big to park...)

    Other Bad Habit:
    1983 Santana 30/30 Raceboat
  • 06-29-2004, 11:10 AM

    Same Problem. Thought Paul's advice was to

    change the shocks and springs. For me, this is an almost daily occurance, but I suspect it has to do with my highly aggressive driving style on very twisty country roads. I have put off making the suspension changes because:

    1. The S 54 engine blew and that cost me the car for two weeks. Then I had to endure the break in period which meant it really didn't matter during that time frame.

    2. I haven't got a clear idea of what shocks and/or springs I should be buying. I think Paul recommended Konis, but I don't remember any recommendations from anyone about springs, and I don't recall any recommendations about which Konis to buy. (I may drive this car hard, but it is also a daily driver and I don't want to jar the caps off my teeth either.)

    I have never looked under the car because I wouldn't know what I was looking at anyway and I don't frequent places that have a lift. I assume that changing the shocks and springs will solve the problem if I understood the advice Paul gave me.

    Would I give up the trio? Not a chance!

  • 06-29-2004, 10:53 AM

    My observations correspond with yours (m)

    I've got some gnarly railroad crossings by my work, and if I have to scoot through the intersection at an (ahem) accelerated pace, I can bottom the Butt Strut out, but it IS just the bolts getting whacked, although it sounds absolutely horrific.

    Perhaps recessing the bolt/nut on the bottom would cure this? I dunno what that would do for structural integrity (Paul's department, there) - but that would eliminate some of the hits I get.

    But there is NO WAY that the trio is coming off of my car unless I get rid of the roadster. It's worth every penny.

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