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  • 11-11-2010, 06:49 PM
    rwthomas1

    Re: ..also wanted to ask if anybody has a solution

    Assuming you are taking apart the suspension to replace the springs in the near future then there is little concern for deterioration of the rubber? How about using Motorcycle Chain Lube. Very aggressive stuff, goes on thin and wet to penetrate yet dries to a sticky very high strength film. Should not hurt rubber as MC chains have O-ring seals in most of them.... Worth a try. RT
  • 11-10-2010, 07:49 PM
    BigRickMc50

    Re: Teflon

    (Sorry about that previous goof-up.)

    If you install two layers of the Teflon film in each location, each sheet will act as a wear surface against the other, rather than trying to shear the internal structure of a single sheet. The upper layer can stay stuck to the perch and the lower sheet can stay stuck to the strut without a problem.

    Just a suggestion.
  • 11-10-2010, 07:41 PM
    BigRickMc50

    Re: Teflon

  • 11-09-2010, 09:31 AM
    Eurodavid

    thks, Tom! Am going to give it a go.....

  • 11-07-2010, 12:07 PM
    TomM

    Spray lubricant to try

    Try some DuPont Teflon Silicone spray lube. Bar code reads 36121 17612. Has worked quite well on all kinds of "squeaky" stuff. Also seems to last quite well. Steering column up/down used to creak like mad in the wintertime. Sprayed it over three years ago. Never has come back. Replaced the "fuzzy" window channel in the driver's door of my beater 79 Chevy pickup. Became a real bear to roll the wind up/down with the crank because of the new and tight fit. (Remember window cranks? We are SO spoiled!) Sprayed the channel with this stuff and let it dry. Smooth and easy. Sprayed the channels on the 528. Motors seem to strain MUCH less and up/down is faster as well. Certainly won't degrade the rubber like WD40 will.
  • 11-07-2010, 05:42 AM
    jimlev

    The stuff I have is 50mm wide w/adhesive on 1 side






    "Drive It Like You Stole It, A Sickness for Quickness"
    The Bottle Rocket "King of Spray" 2 Stage Nitrous Oxide
    Dare to be different and stand out among the crowd of me-to-cars!
    No guts, no glory! Tire smoke, not traction control!
    Zionsville all aluminum radiator to replace the 3 leak prone Nissens Radiators!

    NOS Progressive 2 Stage Controller with port injection
    Snow's Performance Methanol/Water Injection
    Dinan downloads, VAC Under Drive Pulleys
    Dinan Carbon Fiber CAI
    Dinan Front Strut Bar
    Electric Cooling Fan w/PWM controller
    NGK Iridium Plugs
    DDE Enhanced Angel Eyes, Smoked Lenses
    Koni FSD's/H&R Springs, BAV Brass Caliper Bushings
    Eisenmann Race Exhaust (from H8-Rain's car)
    ///M5 3.15 LSD
    ///M5 Sway Bars, Front & Rear
    Energy Suspension Polyurethane Sway Bar Bushings
    ///M5 Gauge Cluster Rings ///M5 Lip Spoiler
    ///M5 Mirrors and Switches
    Leather Z weighted shift knob (thanks H8-Rain)
    Rogue “Octane” Short Shift kit w/WSR
    Rogue Tranny Mounts
    StopTech Brake Lines Front & Rear
    Axxis Deluxe Plus pads Front & Rear
    Staggered M Parallel 66, Xenons
    Modified CDV, UGDO
    Euro Storage Tray (thanks Zombywolf)
    Redline in Diff and Tranny
    Passport 8500 X50, Escort ZR3 Laser Jammer
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  • 11-07-2010, 03:18 AM
    Eurodavid

    Edjack and JimLev........

    Edjack,

    Thanks for that excellent suggestion! I actually had never thought of that, and soon as I read your message recommending it, I thought "that ought to do the trick!" I am definitely going to do that when I put the lowering VOGTLANDs on this coming spring/summer. I just have to see what kind of thickness and tensile strength of any teflon sheeting (assuming there is any on the base somewhere) I can find. Hopefully any that I find won't be so thin as to not withstand the pressure squeeze once I remove the spring compressor and/or the constant chafing of that rubber moving against that spring perch plate.



    Jim,

    I'll look here over the next month on our base, ask around, and see if anyone knows where some is. If I can't find any, I'll email ya and maybe you can cut me two circles of the stuff so I can slide each one on on the front upper spring plates and see if that does the trick as next fall/winter's cooler temps set in. Thanks!


    Eurodavid
  • 11-06-2010, 07:10 PM
    jimlev

    Euro, if U can't req some let me know, I have some






    "Drive It Like You Stole It, A Sickness for Quickness"
    The Bottle Rocket "King of Spray" 2 Stage Nitrous Oxide
    Dare to be different and stand out among the crowd of me-to-cars!
    No guts, no glory! Tire smoke, not traction control!
    Zionsville all aluminum radiator to replace the 3 leak prone Nissens Radiators!

    NOS Progressive 2 Stage Controller with port injection
    Snow's Performance Methanol/Water Injection
    Dinan downloads, VAC Under Drive Pulleys
    Dinan Carbon Fiber CAI
    Dinan Front Strut Bar
    Electric Cooling Fan w/PWM controller
    NGK Iridium Plugs
    DDE Enhanced Angel Eyes, Smoked Lenses
    Koni FSD's/H&R Springs, BAV Brass Caliper Bushings
    Eisenmann Race Exhaust (from H8-Rain's car)
    ///M5 3.15 LSD
    ///M5 Sway Bars, Front & Rear
    Energy Suspension Polyurethane Sway Bar Bushings
    ///M5 Gauge Cluster Rings ///M5 Lip Spoiler
    ///M5 Mirrors and Switches
    Leather Z weighted shift knob (thanks H8-Rain)
    Rogue “Octane” Short Shift kit w/WSR
    Rogue Tranny Mounts
    StopTech Brake Lines Front & Rear
    Axxis Deluxe Plus pads Front & Rear
    Staggered M Parallel 66, Xenons
    Modified CDV, UGDO
    Euro Storage Tray (thanks Zombywolf)
    Redline in Diff and Tranny
    Passport 8500 X50, Escort ZR3 Laser Jammer
    G-Tech/Competition Pro Data Logger
    Auto Enginuity OBD-II Scan Tool
    25% Tint, X-Pel, LoJack
    PIAA Driving Lights
    BMW CCA Member Boston Chapter
  • 11-06-2010, 05:59 PM
    jimlev

    Maybe jack it up and use spring compressors






    "Drive It Like You Stole It, A Sickness for Quickness"
    The Bottle Rocket "King of Spray" 2 Stage Nitrous Oxide
    Dare to be different and stand out among the crowd of me-to-cars!
    No guts, no glory! Tire smoke, not traction control!
    Zionsville all aluminum radiator to replace the 3 leak prone Nissens Radiators!

    NOS Progressive 2 Stage Controller with port injection
    Snow's Performance Methanol/Water Injection
    Dinan downloads, VAC Under Drive Pulleys
    Dinan Carbon Fiber CAI
    Dinan Front Strut Bar
    Electric Cooling Fan w/PWM controller
    NGK Iridium Plugs
    DDE Enhanced Angel Eyes, Smoked Lenses
    Koni FSD's/H&R Springs, BAV Brass Caliper Bushings
    Eisenmann Race Exhaust (from H8-Rain's car)
    ///M5 3.15 LSD
    ///M5 Sway Bars, Front & Rear
    Energy Suspension Polyurethane Sway Bar Bushings
    ///M5 Gauge Cluster Rings ///M5 Lip Spoiler
    ///M5 Mirrors and Switches
    Leather Z weighted shift knob (thanks H8-Rain)
    Rogue “Octane” Short Shift kit w/WSR
    Rogue Tranny Mounts
    StopTech Brake Lines Front & Rear
    Axxis Deluxe Plus pads Front & Rear
    Staggered M Parallel 66, Xenons
    Modified CDV, UGDO
    Euro Storage Tray (thanks Zombywolf)
    Redline in Diff and Tranny
    Passport 8500 X50, Escort ZR3 Laser Jammer
    G-Tech/Competition Pro Data Logger
    Auto Enginuity OBD-II Scan Tool
    25% Tint, X-Pel, LoJack
    PIAA Driving Lights
    BMW CCA Member Boston Chapter
  • 11-06-2010, 03:13 PM
    edjack

    Whatever you use is not gonna be permanent.>>

    Since you seem to be involved with the military, I'll bet you can "requisition" some thin Teflon sheeting, cut a piece to fit, and put that between the rubbing members.
    Ed in San Jose. BMW CCA member since 1987 (Nr. 62319). Golden Gate Chapter. '97 540i 6 speed. Build Date 3/97. Aspensilber over Aubergine leather.
  • 11-06-2010, 01:02 PM
    Craig in Canada

    Re: ..also wanted to ask if anybody has a solution

    Well, I was thinking more about disassembly (since you've had so much practice it should be really quick for you LOL).

    I do wonder though if you have the front jacked up if there's just enough slack to pry things around with a large standard screwdriver and get some in there (?)

  • 11-06-2010, 10:00 AM
    Eurodavid

    Re: ..also wanted to ask if anybody has a solution

    Craig,

    I actually have a near full new tube of that exact stuff lying around. How in heck would I get it liquid enough to get it up in there while the everything is still on the car? Heat it? Mix it with something?? I'd do it if I could figure how to get it up in there to be able to run between the rubber and the upper strut spring perch.

    Eurodavid
  • 11-06-2010, 09:58 AM
    Eurodavid

    Re: Did you repack the upper strut bearings when you >

    Edjack,

    No, I bought new ones, even took those apart, repacked them, and anyhow is not them. It is "definitely" number 10 rubbing on number 9. You can watch and see it as someone turns the steering wheel back and forth, and it only happens at temps below 40-42F. Above that, the rubber expands enough and is supple enough to not allow any movement. I even replaced both 10 and 9 with new OEM stuff, in fact everything associated with the front suspension is new. I'm due to put on the new German lowering (30mm) springs next spring/summer, so when I dot it, I'll have the chance to do something there. I just wonder what is the best stuff to put there (between 10 and 9)? Is it Silicone Dielectric Compound like Mike suggested? Or would something else be better?

    Eurodavid
  • 11-05-2010, 09:06 PM
    edjack

    Did you repack the upper strut bearings when you >

    replaced the front shocks?
    Ed in San Jose. BMW CCA member since 1987 (Nr. 62319). Golden Gate Chapter. '97 540i 6 speed. Build Date 3/97. Aspensilber over Aubergine leather.
  • 11-05-2010, 09:05 PM
    edjack

    He'd have to dismount the strut to apply.


    Ed in San Jose. BMW CCA member since 1987 (Nr. 62319). Golden Gate Chapter. '97 540i 6 speed. Build Date 3/97. Aspensilber over Aubergine leather.
  • 11-05-2010, 07:16 PM
    Mike S

    How about Silicone Dielectric Compound

    It's sometimes sold as "tune up grease". It's pretty tenacious stuff and definitely will not harm rubber. If you warm it up it should be thin enough to squirt through a syringe or similar device.

    Good luck
  • 11-05-2010, 04:04 PM
    calemon

    Re: ..also wanted to ask if anybody has a solution

    What if instead of WD40 you used something meant for ongoing lubrication instead of short term? Something rubber-compatible like Sylglide or SuperLube


  • 11-05-2010, 03:12 PM
    Eurodavid

    ..also wanted to ask if anybody has a solution

    and/or found a solution for this (best described by this old post):

    upper rubber spring pad causing creaking as it rubs against metal

    The problem is definitely this, so please don't suggest possible other causes. How do I know? Well, if you get in there with a long, makeshift 18inch squirt-tube of WD-40, a few squirts where the upper spring pad meets the metal of the strut mount, and presto, no matter how cold it gets out, there is zero creaking from anywhere on the car when it is running or when it is just sitting still and you are cranking the steering wheel back and forth.

    This problem is sort of infamous (if you Google it, you will find numerous threads on many BMW sites about it). I've had it for what will be two winters now (after replacing the whole front end 4 winters ago), and it is a bit annoying. The upper spring pad hardens as the temp drops (has to be below 40-42 degrees before it starts), and then the creaking starts when the steering wheel is turned (whether the car is sitting and/or moving) and the full strut/shock rotates (especially if you do it when the car is sitting still) causing that temperature-stiffened upper spring pad to rub against the metal of the upper spring strut mount.

    Thought I'd take a shot and ask here if anyone had this and solved, before I forgot & just lived with it again. Other than constantly putting WD-40 squirts in there (which is eventually going to cause that rubber to wear out & degrade quicker than normal), anyone come up with a good solution (no way grease will get in there as the fitting is too tight, the shock/strut would have to be removed and disassembled for that).

    Thanks for any replies.

    Eurodavid

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