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Re: Here you go, I believe it's one saying speed

Thanks! This is great information!!

Re: Everything is fused, I'd be surprised if there (m)

Thanks Jim!!!

Here you go, I believe it's one saying speed

control. I'll check my Bentley manual to confirm.
http://www.540i6.com/fuses.html



1998 BMW 540i 6 speed
Arctic silver, M sport suspension (euro delivery), prod. date 05/98, non VANOS
Staggered 18" style 32 OEM wheels
3.15 open differential
Remus exhaust
AFE CAI with improved heat shield
Z3 shifter
VDO oil pressure and temperature gauges in place of headlight/fog switches
Powder coated valve covers-satin black
CDV delete
Debadged
AEA DRL module (aftermarket daytime running lights)

1997 BMW 528iA
Alpine white, premium package, prod. date 04/97, single VANOS
Staggered 17" style 32 OEM wheels
Debadged
AEA DRL module
Custom made sun blinds for rear seating area

2000 Nissan Frontier Desert Runner, AKA "The Work Horse"

Garage aids:
Direct Lift Pro Park 8
Campbell Hausfeld 28 gallon oil lubricated air compressor
Newair ACP-1400H portable air conditioner and heater
Auto Enginuity scan tool with BMW enhanced option
Actron 9135 scan tool-for quick readouts

Everything is fused, I'd be surprised if there (m)

wasn't a fuse above the glove box for the cruise module. I'm traveling and don't have that info with me. If no one answers I'll look at the info when I get home tonight.

Re: Cruise control help

No Power. I believe my problem has to do with the lack of power to the system as the light on the dash will not turn on when I press the on button on the dash. Any idea if there is a fuse to check or relay somewhere? Thanks again for all the help. Mike

Another possibility may b a bad wheel speed sensor

IIRC, the right rear wheel speed sensor is responsible for the cruise control.

Vin


2003 530i (Sport Package) Build Date: 02/03
Titanium Gray over Black
Shadowline Trim
5-Speed Manual Transmission
Zeckhausen Modified CDV
Dinan Upgrades: High Flow Throttle Body, CAI, Stage 3 Software, and Free Flow Exhaust.

Horsepower: some is good, more is better, TOO MUCH is just right!
"If everything seems under control, you're just not going fast enough." ~ Mario Andretti
"What’s behind you doesn’t matter." ~ Enzo Ferrari

There are several possibilities for not working:

1. When I bought the used actuator, I got one from 528 engine bay because those engine produce much less heat, which is the main reason for plastic to become brittle over the years. If you haven't open your bought unit, it's possible that also has broken teeth. You can easily open it and check.

2. You have to have certain amount of slack in cable, I use to have info on how much but I can't find it now.

3. Your module might be bad.

There use to be excellent pdf write up online, but I can't find it anymore. I wish I could help you more, but it's been a while since I've done mine and I forgot most of the procedure.





1998 BMW 540i 6 speed
Arctic silver, M sport suspension (euro delivery), prod. date 05/98, non VANOS
Staggered 18" style 32 OEM wheels
3.15 open differential
Remus exhaust
AFE CAI with improved heat shield
Z3 shifter
VDO oil pressure and temperature gauges in place of headlight/fog switches
Powder coated valve covers-satin black
CDV delete
Debadged
AEA DRL module (aftermarket daytime running lights)

1997 BMW 528iA
Alpine white, premium package, prod. date 04/97, single VANOS
Staggered 17" style 32 OEM wheels
Debadged
AEA DRL module
Custom made sun blinds for rear seating area

2000 Nissan Frontier Desert Runner, AKA "The Work Horse"

Garage aids:
Direct Lift Pro Park 8
Campbell Hausfeld 28 gallon oil lubricated air compressor
Newair ACP-1400H portable air conditioner and heater
Auto Enginuity scan tool with BMW enhanced option
Actron 9135 scan tool-for quick readouts

Re: Are you sure that plastic gear inside the actuator

Not sure...I replaced the unit with a used unit....would this cause the system to not turn on? I would think that at least thte system would turn on useing the dash button indicating that the sytem was at leat on...thank you for the help and suggestion. Mike

Are you sure that plastic gear inside the actuator

doesn't have broken teeth. That was what happened on my 540.




1998 BMW 540i 6 speed
Arctic silver, M sport suspension (euro delivery), prod. date 05/98, non VANOS
Staggered 18" style 32 OEM wheels
3.15 open differential
Remus exhaust
AFE CAI with improved heat shield
Z3 shifter
VDO oil pressure and temperature gauges in place of headlight/fog switches
Powder coated valve covers-satin black
CDV delete
Debadged
AEA DRL module (aftermarket daytime running lights)

1997 BMW 528iA
Alpine white, premium package, prod. date 04/97, single VANOS
Staggered 17" style 32 OEM wheels
Debadged
AEA DRL module
Custom made sun blinds for rear seating area

2000 Nissan Frontier Desert Runner, AKA "The Work Horse"

Garage aids:
Direct Lift Pro Park 8
Campbell Hausfeld 28 gallon oil lubricated air compressor
Newair ACP-1400H portable air conditioner and heater
Auto Enginuity scan tool with BMW enhanced option
Actron 9135 scan tool-for quick readouts

Cruise control help

Hello,
My cruise control was not working correctly properly (it was cutting off after surging) The car is a 1997 6 speed 540i with a production date of 12/96. I replaced the modulator under the hood that connects with cables to the throtle and just replaced the electronic module under the dash. As you know, in order to activate this system you need to push the cruise button on the dash first to turn on the system. Nothing happens now when you try to activate the sytem...the light on the dash does not light up indicating activation. Is there a fuse for this system and or a relay? If so, where are they located. Any suggestions on what to check/replace next? Thank you very much for your suggestions. Mike ps..209,000 miles and hoping to get 300,000.