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  • 03-11-2011, 04:18 PM

    if you take thr steering knuckle off, look for my

    writeup when i did mine. I too took my knuckle out, with all the arms attached, and you'd be surprised how darn easy everything pops out of the knuckle once it is off the car. I spent more time figuring out what to do than the actual 5 or 10 mins it took to pop all the arms off the knuckle while it was being held it my giant table mounted vise. Some wood, some good lubircating oil, a heavy steel mallet (rubber stinks), and those things pop right out like a greased thumb in a pig's a##!

  • 03-10-2011, 12:40 PM

    Re: Tie rod ball joint removal is breaking my arms...

    - A bit of heat may help (just 10-15 seconds of propane torch).
    - Remember to oil the BJ tool too!
    - Use a pipe to help you turn the ratchet.
    - Do it in stages!

    Or take the whole steering knuckle out and bring it to a local auto repair shop.
  • 03-10-2011, 10:24 AM

    Re: Tie rod ball joint removal is breaking my arms...

    Thanks so much for the input. The tool I'm using is this:

    I sprayed it with some lubricating oil, let it sit overnight with tension, then tried it again this morning. I just couldn't torque it any further. As it turns out, not only did I damage the threads on my BJ tool, but I slightly bent the screw on the BJ itself. Luckily enough, I was still able to get the nut back on it.

    You're right patience is key, and I tried doing it in stages. But I gave up. Ball joints are a pain in the a** on e39's, as I also failed to remove my rear ball joints too. Everyone else makes it look so easy
  • 03-10-2011, 01:34 AM

    Re: Tie rod ball joint removal is breaking my arms...

    What tool do you have? I have this one and as long as you tighten in stages and be patient, it'll pop it out in 30 min max. If it's rusted out, soak it with PB blaster or similar and try in the morning. Remember, patience is the key. If you rush it, you'll break the toll and hurt yourself. Good luck.

    1998 BMW 540i 6 speed
    Arctic silver, M sport suspension (euro delivery), prod. date 05/98, non VANOS
    Staggered 18" style 32 OEM wheels
    3.15 open differential
    Remus exhaust
    AFE CAI with improved heat shield
    Z3 shifter
    VDO oil pressure and temperature gauges in place of headlight/fog switches
    Powder coated valve covers-satin black
    CDV delete
    AEA DRL module (aftermarket daytime running lights)

    1997 BMW 528iA
    Alpine white, premium package, prod. date 04/97, single VANOS
    Staggered 17" style 32 OEM wheels
    AEA DRL module
    Custom made sun blinds for rear seating area

    2000 Nissan Frontier Desert Runner, AKA "The Work Horse"

    Garage aids:
    Direct Lift Pro Park 8
    Campbell Hausfeld 28 gallon oil lubricated air compressor
    Newair ACP-1400H portable air conditioner and heater
    Auto Enginuity scan tool with BMW enhanced option
    Actron 9135 scan tool-for quick readouts

  • 03-09-2011, 08:06 PM

    Tie rod ball joint removal is breaking my arms...

    Alright, I'm not having any sort of luck removing ball joints, the rear ones I gave up on, I can't push em out even with the special tools to do it. So I moved up to the front, removed the upper part of one of my tie rods (which is surprisgly easy), then I moved over to it's lower ball joint. I bought the tool, again, to push it out, but it seems that no amount of force I'm apply to torque it is pushing it out. I can't seem to torque my tool any further without breaking my arms.

    Anyone have any suggestions?

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