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michael, click my link belwo plastic vs alu; $10

10 dollar aluminum part...WHERE?!!!!!

Out of 4 no leaks so far but we dont have any of those cars any more. They are local and with friends so I am sure we would have heard of it.

I cant stand all the plastic crap in thes cars. I just purchased that cover under my car from the dealer for 44.00, will put it on this weekend.

We did find one of the aluminum manifolds slightly warpped and I sent it back to BAV auto, the replacement sat flat on a flat serface, and torqued perfectly. I torqued according to bolt size instead of the spec in the Bentley.

And you are right and for the same reason I have not bought a Zionsville radiator. If it lasts 60K miles and cost 120.00 it's far less than the aluminum radiator for sure. But did I mention I HATE all the plastic crap in thes cars. If I kee the car I can probably see a Zionsville in there eventually. Problem is I dont even drive the car 4,000 miles per year now so it will tak a looooooooong time to put 60 k on this radiator. Of course it is plastic just sitting is probably enough to make it fail.
Michael - Chattanooga Tennessee
BMWCCA 65795

00 540 Sport / 6 speed, SaharaBeige Metallic / SamanaBeige II Montanna Leather, 35% tint, Xenons, DSP, CD Changer, Auto dimming rear view mirror, rain sensing wipers, fold down rear seat, Style 32 staggard wheels, Hankook Ventus V4 ES 245/45/WR17/95W Fronts and 275/40/WR17/98W Rears. 152,900 Smiles and climbing!

08 Harley Davidson Sportster 1200 C Anniversary Edition Number 0064/3200 Copper and Vivid Black (FOR SALE)
16,800 miles

2006 GMC Sierra SLT all options

1988 GMC Safari 400,000 miles plus and still going

Other BMWs hanging around usually needing attention
06 E90 330i sport pkg +all options
98 E36 328i 5 speed Sport/Premium PKG
00 e46 323ia Premium Pkg
04 X3 sport/premium 3.0 six speed (back again)

Re: also, opinions on the plastic vs alu housing??

Generally, upgrades to the OEM are desirable, but they occasionally fail as well. I've read of one Zionsville rad leak and also one Stewart WP failure (only one in each case and they're lifetime warranted) ... but they're several times OEM prices.

The T-stat housing doesn't fail often, its usually what's inside. Given that, it's probably a toss-up unless you plan to show up at the 2050 Oktoberfest. Then I'd go with Al.

As to your question on whether or not you have to drain, the T-stat is pretty high on the block. You'd probably only lose a couple pints of coolant at most and I don't think the refill/bleed will be any more problematic. Just to have a relatively dry environment when you remove hoses and the housing, drain a bit from the rad and catch it.

Re: should have followed your own advice..LOL

LOL!

Godd#mn Feynman thing eventually gets me every time.

In my defense, I did actually end up putting a new thermostat in, in which I drilled a small hole at 12 oclock, but I'll be danged if I was smart enough to change out the original oem housing.

Quantum entanglement came home to roost, found the weakest spot in the overall system, and went after it with a vengeance-----of course at the worst time of the year ;-D

Did I tell you how much I love my BMW....lol

Eurodavid

should have followed your own advice..LOL

Euro,
Hate to do this to you but last March when I was re-doing my cooling system you gave me
this advice
and since you replaced your waterpump 30K ago......well how come you did not replace the thermostat and housing then???

Hope the sun shines in Belgium Monday.....:-)



Jan/1998 528i, 5 spd manual, black on black non DSP.>300Kkms(180Kmiles) non-Sport, lowered with KONI FSD & Eibach springs in 2008, added "Bad Road package Adapters" to front only Dec 2009.
My previous rides worth mentioning:1970 GTO "The Judge",1985 325e M3lite, Euro BMW +
1998 323Ti, in Munich, Germany on the autobahn for 1 yr
Now back in Halifax, Nova Scotia,via Ottawa Canada.

Re: Who is the supplier of aluminium housing used?

we bought them from BAV auto abd Turner motorsports, Never paid attention to the brand.Michael - Chattanooga Tennessee
BMWCCA 65795

00 540 Sport / 6 speed, SaharaBeige Metallic / SamanaBeige II Montanna Leather, 35% tint, Xenons, DSP, CD Changer, Auto dimming rear view mirror, rain sensing wipers, fold down rear seat, Style 32 staggard wheels, Hankook Ventus V4 ES 245/45/WR17/95W Fronts and 275/40/WR17/98W Rears. 152,900 Smiles and climbing!

08 Harley Davidson Sportster 1200 C Anniversary Edition Number 0064/3200 Copper and Vivid Black (FOR SALE)
16,800 miles

2006 GMC Sierra SLT all options

1988 GMC Safari 400,000 miles plus and still going

Other BMWs hanging around usually needing attention
06 E90 330i sport pkg +all options
98 E36 328i 5 speed Sport/Premium PKG
00 e46 323ia Premium Pkg
04 X3 sport/premium 3.0 six speed (back again)

New OEM plastic housing...

Hi all,

Went down to our only BMW dealer within an 80km radius, and ordered the plastic housing. I was very appreciative of the fact it was only 22 euros, which is close to $30 nowadays. Yes, that's almost twice what it would cost me ordering it online from the States, but when I factor the shipping charge it would cost from the US, it's fairly good (plus I don't have to wait 3 weeks). The dealer said the part would be in Monday morning, as they don't do parts runs on Saturdays. So, I'm just hoping the weather holds out, as it has gotten reasonably decent again to where it is between 30-40 degrees (ExAlfa, the garage/carport is filled with honeydolist moved stuff as I have the whole upper floor of the house tore up now---the HDL-ing never ends and is going to end up killing me).

Also wanted tom pass this pricing tidbit on to you: when at the dealer today, I also wanted to order the windshield washer pump tat crapped out on me this past week. When the guy brought the price for it up on the computer, I quickly remembered to temper my happiness about the plastic housing's price. Why? Well, a new windshield washer pump for an I6 1997-1998 e39 I6 is roughly $12-14 (equivalent 9 euros) online at TischerBMW, RMEuropean, PelicanParts, and BavAuto. Anybody want to guess what the belgian BMW dealer's price for the windshield washer pump was?

10 euros?
13 euros?
17 euros?
21 euros?
25 euros?
29 euros?
33 euros?
37 euros?

Answer: none of the above. It cost 39 euros, which is the equivalent of $51 US dollars plus change (at current exchange rates). Don't even ask me what a new water pump costs over here, as your collective jaws would hit the ground too hard if I told you that.


Thanks again for everyone's help and timely replies yesterday. I'll get the plastic housing changed out Monday evening before dark sets in at 6, and will nix the windshield washer pump (and all its associated grommets) repair for about a month until those parts arrive from RMEuropean.

Eurodavid

P.S. my water pump is still new, as it has only 30k miles on it. I could find nothing wrong with it today spinning and trying to move it like some of you suggested. So, it's just the plastic housing, thankfully. Guess I should feel fortunate the housing lasted 194000kms.

If pump is also original vintage ie. same age as

the thermostat housing I would play it safe and replace it at the same time or you might be unlucky enough to do this job again next month in the freezing cold weather.

Last year I replaced everything, pump thermostat and housing, rad. and hoses and belt tensioners even though I had no idea what was acting up as all I got was the gauge going north on me during my drive home for no apparent reason I could isolate.
With regards to you wanting to save you coolant and only do the thermostat you can just drain the rad, then elevate the front and you will loose very little coolant as I did that after my replacement cause I had a small leak on the thermostat housing.

Make sure you use a bead of sealant around all the contact part of the housing to the head when assembling this baby.


Jan/1998 528i, 5 spd manual, black on black non DSP.>300Kkms(180Kmiles) non-Sport, lowered with KONI FSD & Eibach springs in 2008, added "Bad Road package Adapters" to front only Dec 2009.
My previous rides worth mentioning:1970 GTO "The Judge",1985 325e M3lite, Euro BMW +
1998 323Ti, in Munich, Germany on the autobahn for 1 yr
Now back in Halifax, Nova Scotia,via Ottawa Canada.

Go with the OEM plastic

Euro,
I just replaced all cooling parts last year and went thru the plastic vs alu eval.conclusion, plastic is safer bet.

Good luck

Who is the supplier of aluminium housing used?

Euro, as much as I hate plastic parts, I have to

say that in my case I stuck with the OEM plastic thermostat housing after aluminum one leaked shortly after replacement.
I know some poeple had the positive experience with them, but I question the quality of $10 part. Also, your original lasted for 14 years, so that's pretty good.
I'd also preventively replaced the WP since you're there allready.



1998 BMW 540i 6 speed
Arctic silver, M sport suspension (euro delivery), prod. date 05/98, non VANOS
Staggered 18" style 32 OEM wheels
3.15 open differential
Remus exhaust
AFE CAI with improved heat shield
Z3 shifter
VDO oil pressure and temperature gauges in place of headlight/fog switches
Powder coated valve covers-satin black
CDV delete
Debadged
AEA DRL module (aftermarket daytime running lights)

1997 BMW 528iA
Alpine white, premium package, prod. date 04/97, single VANOS
Staggered 17" style 32 OEM wheels
Debadged
AEA DRL module
Custom made sun blinds for rear seating area

2000 Nissan Frontier Desert Runner, AKA "The Work Horse"

Garage aids:
Direct Lift Pro Park 8
Campbell Hausfeld 28 gallon oil lubricated air compressor
Newair ACP-1400H portable air conditioner and heater
Auto Enginuity scan tool with BMW enhanced option
Actron 9135 scan tool-for quick readouts

Good luck with repair. Agree w/EdCT re: noise

Too bad you don't have a garage to work in. May your tools be warm and the wind be still. How did you lose access?

We have replaced 4 plastic with 4 aluminum

no problems with any of them, and for the same reason people buy Zionsville radiators, it won't have a heat related structural failure at least there. Any time you can replace the failure prone plastic crap, do it!

Michael - Chattanooga Tennessee
BMWCCA 65795

00 540 Sport / 6 speed, SaharaBeige Metallic / SamanaBeige II Montanna Leather, 35% tint, Xenons, DSP, CD Changer, Auto dimming rear view mirror, rain sensing wipers, fold down rear seat, Style 32 staggard wheels, Hankook Ventus V4 ES 245/45/WR17/95W Fronts and 275/40/WR17/98W Rears. 152,900 Smiles and climbing!

08 Harley Davidson Sportster 1200 C Anniversary Edition Number 0064/3200 Copper and Vivid Black (FOR SALE)
16,800 miles

2006 GMC Sierra SLT all options

1988 GMC Safari 400,000 miles plus and still going

Other BMWs hanging around usually needing attention
06 E90 330i sport pkg +all options
98 E36 328i 5 speed Sport/Premium PKG
00 e46 323ia Premium Pkg
04 X3 sport/premium 3.0 six speed (back again)

Ed, thks!! It was the noise that worried me ;-D

thks everyone! Will let u know tom what Belgian

Re: ok, gang, me needs help! quickly, if possible

Euro - I agree with Craig re the WP. Remove the belt and spin it. it should feel smooth not rough. It may also feel tight, as in not able to spin freely on its own. This is OK. Also, grab the WP shaft and try moving it up & down - there should be very little play in the shaft. The old WP that I replaced in my '98 actually had a metal impeller, so, I think you earlier version probably did, too.

I don't think the hoses will firm from coolant running thru them - they already have coolant in them. They'll firm from heated, pressurized coolant.

I've changed the t-stat housing without draining the block, only the radiator. You can reuse it if in a clean container. Before you loosen the t-stat, place a plastic bag over all the pulleys and belts, and then some cloths, diapers, bedspreads, what-have-you, over the plastic bag and under the tstat housing. This will keep everything dry when any coolant is freed from the housing.

Your plastic tstat housing lasted a longtime. My first one lasted over 90k miles. Don't gamble on an AL housing - IMHO they are too stiff and don't contour to get a good fit to the head, and will leak.

I'm thinking the noise that you heard was the plastic housing cracking and the expulsion of the preasurized coolant.
Ed CT
1998 528i (aka, best car I ever owned!)
5-Speed
Aspen Silver
Aubergine Leather
Zeckhausen CDV
Nokia CK-7
D-Con Cache on Fuel Pump Cover

I have heard they are good .

Jay Gans 2000 528 MT Non-sport.Titanium Silver, Grey Leather. Premium Package, Cold Weather, Fold down seats. Oct 99 production.ash try mod so not bone stock. CD changer. Garmin C510 Nav..Honda CH150D scooter

If you had no indication of water pump problems >

Before the tstat housing failure, you should have no problems now. The two are unrelated. That said, if replacing the tstat housing also provides you ready access to the water pump AND the pump is original equipment, this is certainly the time to take advantage of the situation and replace it. Otherwise, it will fail shortly after you get this current problem remedied. It's a Murphy's Law thing.




Filehorse
Knoxville, TN
BMWCCA #407627

2002 525i Steptronic Sport/Premium | Build Date: 05/02
81,000 Ultimate Driving miles
Xenons
Style 81s | Bridgestone Potenza RE960 AS
Titanium Gray | Gray Leather
35% LLumar ATR LLumaStar tint
Valentine 1 | Hardwired
Steering wheel position memory w/Alzheimers
"Lifetime" ATF replaced at 40,000; Switched to Valvoline MaxLife @ the 80,000 mile service
"LIfetime" Final Drive gear oil replaced at 81,000; Redline 75W-90 GL-5
StopTech SportStop slotted rotors w/Axxis Deluxe Advanced pads
StopTech SS Braided Brake Lines

2001 E46 325i (Jet Black) Forced Retirement 6/28/09

2001 E46 325i (Orient Blue) Forced Retirement 10/09

1989 E30 325i (Alpine White) Retired

Re: ok, gang, me needs help! quickly, if possible

Craig,

Let me run this by you:

it's dark out right now, so I am shutting down, but I wanted to run this idea by you: since the fan housing and fan clutch are out of the car, could I not wait till next morning, start the car, let it idle until it heats up (which ought to happen fairly quickly, yes, without the fan in), and then see if the hoses feel firm from fluid running through them---thus, indicating the water pump is fine, and the noise I heard while driving was the main belt slipping as I accelerated hard)???????

Would that not be a sign the water pump is ok??? The thought of having to pull that thing too is not making me hapsky right now, if ya know what I mean.

Thanks for responding so quickly earlier. Really appreciated it!

Eurodavid

Re: ok, gang, me needs help! quickly, if possible

OK, the cold weather is going to make this suck.... Except for that, this is what I would do:

1/ You can evaluate the WP bearing by just pulling on it with the belt off. Since you want to be comprehensive - you're going to have to pull it. IMO

2/ If you get the shroud, fan and belts out of there, there's actually quite a bit of room to work. When I did my wpump a year ago, I removed the rad too. It was luxurious. The wpump and tstat bolts were easy to access, very lightly torqued, and there's no tricky tubes with O-rings like on the V8. Unbolt, inspect, re-bolt (if you don't want to change it).

3/ I would be inclined to drain the rad and block, collecting what you drain to be put back in. When I drain the block I have to pull the O2 sensor and cover the hole with foil tape in order to get a tool on the block drain and not fill the exhaust with coolant. When I drain it I work both from below and above. From below I remove the O2 sensor and get the block drain almost ready to come out. Then I position a bucket and move up top. From the top I use a foot or so of some big clear nylon tubing - over 1.5" in diameter or so - the block drain plug must be able to pass through the tubing. Put one end in the bucket and get the other near the block drain. Deftly twirl the drain plug out the last turn and shove the nylon tubing against the block over the drain hole. This carries the plug and "most" of the coolant into the bucket instead of all over the suspension.


I'm not sure what luck you might have with draining just the rad (because it's easy), elevating the front and just yanking the tstat housing. I suspect it would still be very messy and get everywhere.

It sucks that you need to work outside. IMO, replace with an OE t-stat housing. I've read a lot of people have leak problems with the Al aftermarket replacements. Your story perhaps gives credence to the stories we've heard that cooling system problems manifest at the beginning of the winter when the "depth" of the temperature cycle increases compared to summer. My dad's rad blew in a cold snap a couple of Novembers ago too.