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I need to repair the motor of my E30 M3. I want to go with the 2.5lt upgrade. Do you think that it is worth it pay so much $$$ for it, compared with the gain, or you understand that it is more practical to just repair my current motor?? Iused my car on a daily basis.
What you think?
Regards
1988 Henna Red M3
some input too. It'll be tempting "while you're in there" but I can see the costs rapidly escalating. Suggestions?
I have a 1989 Turbo, and performance is not the issue. M3 e30 are cars with a special suspension which are the envy of any high performance car, but spending 5-6 thousand in an overhaul with a gain of only 60 HP, is to be considered????
Regards
spend the money on another machine gun
I finished my 2.5 last summer and have put 1900 miles on it so far. If you do it right, it is well worth it to me. The new motor ROCKS! VAC stage 3 head with stock valves, cams, 2.5 kit etc. For all required components expect to spend 7-10k to do it yourself(assembly) add 2.5k for somebody else to put it together. However, it puts a ridiculous grin on my face whenever I rip it sideways. It is all good to me.
video here (WMV format)
click here
on that setup gearing is as follows:
1st gear goes to 45 mph
2nd gear 67 mph
3rd gear 94 mph
..
5th gear rev limited at about 162 mph @ 8500 rpm
John
I've always said that if my motor ever goes, I will do the 2.5 upgrade. I know turner has a basic kit for about $2500. As long as you don't get to crazy, I think you could maybe get every thing you need for the bottem end, and leave the top as is. Maybe just add bigger injectors. Of course, these things do have a way of getting out of hand. If I had the money....
if youve never built an engine before, one may be suffering
from delusions what a real build up costs. This is an attempt
to explain a few issues.
step 1: realize that a "2.5l" as such does not exist. There are
quite a few variations of 2.5l out there, some even have the
same specs/parts but they differ in build quality non the less.
step 2: realize there is no "kit" per-se. you can buy a 2.5l crank
at the dealer yourself.
step 3: realize you first need to upgrade a lot of peripheral parts
before you can call it a "real 2.5". e.g., things like
TBs and header/exhaust system. If you stick with the AFM,
then you should get an E3 AFM with the larger 300cc injectors.
slapping on a stock head on to a 2.5l is about the worst way
to build a 2.5.
step 4: realize your engine actually needs a full rebuild before
tuning/modding it. you know, things like timing chain gear needs
replacing, or the head needs new valve guides, stuff like that.
these are "base level costs" that are incurred on ANY engine
rebuild, including stock engine rebuilds.
most people that go with highly tuned engines end up with all
new (or nearlz all new) parts. they just replace everything.
on the "high hp" S14s, there is merit in using an EVO3 block
e.g. there is also merit in using oil squirters.
unfortunately, if you havent done this before you are going to
go shopping and surfing catalogues. a big fat warning: dont
go with someone just because they quote silly hp numbers, these
are unrealistic for the hardware used. HP does not simply add up
with the number of mods done. That is my advice.
John
Corrajem3, you know what you have to do here. Rebuild the engine to 2.3 or 2.5L( my choice) and add it an Alpha-N system with the CF plenum to wake-up those ponnies. Enjoy the life!
Best, Jose.