Car won't idle - did I damage my ECU?
I was pulling some fuses trying to troubleshoot a problem and when I tried to restart the car, the car will not idle--it just stalls. I haven't had any problems with my idle control valve to date. Is it possible that I pulled a fuse to the ECU and damaged it? I know, I probably should have disconnected the battery first.
There are no CEL indications. The car will run if I keep the throttle plate open. I tried to get to the ICV connector to test the ECU signal, but I haven't been able to access it--it's burried under the manifold.
glad it's found... didn't know what to say
I had imagined tho it would be hard to "break" something that wasn't already nearing a breaking point. It was probably just timing, and not anything you did specifically.
Supposedly the ICV can be cleaned and replaced._______
Silicone intake boot
Silicone rad hoses
Eyeball Arm CA mounts
Sunbelt CAMS w chip for 24# injectors, Euro MAF, Conforti/ITG CAI
96+ exhaust manifolds
M roadster lever
GC RTAB shims, RSMs, T/S Coilover with Koni DA f/SA R & 450#f/550#r Eibach ERS
All done in my garage
<a href="http://video.roadfly.com/"><img src="http://m1.roadfly.com/files/photos/a733fa9b25f3368L.jpg" border="0" width="400" alt="corkscrew:Laguna Seca" /><a>
Finally found the real start problem
I had the start problem several more times, but my "bad key" theory didn't hold up--my second key wouldn't start the car. I knew the problem was heat related, and based on the interior cabin temp, so I sprayed some cold compressed air (using a can of Dust Off) onto the ignition ring antenna (sits around the key hole and reads the chip in the key). Sure enough, the car started right up.
I kept the air can in the car to see if I could repeat the fix, and it worked successfully several more times, so I replaced the antenna. The best news is that it was only $40, even less than a new key!