Fuel pump diagnosis and full test routine.

Hi Harold I'm not certain its just the bulb that needs replacing. Do you have experience of just installing a bulb and having it work? I'm hesitant to take apart something that is working, to install a bulb when it might turn out the Motronic and loom parts are also missing.

From another bmw board

"It is not only the missing light bulb.
Depends on built year/month and MOTRONIC version. On the EURO version the bulb place is empty. And the wires between cluster and MOTRONIC are not there.
Lots of discussions on the German E32 forum about this.
For example on the MOTRONIC 3.3 it is possible to do the wiring, on the older 1.2 of the M70 EURO version it is said not to be working.
Stomp test function was only required for U.S. specification models.
EURO versions do not have them, also Japan spec cars do not have it."

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1397106

will work - put the friggin bulb in!
(If you read further down the post you linked to, you will see when this was first available).

while you are looking into the dk motors, watching the butterfly valves. have a second person turn ignition on to position 2. do both the butterfly valves move the same ?
have them step on the gas pedal / then release the pedal, while you are watching the butterfly valves. Do both the valves open to the same distance and do they go back to where they started.(watch for opening and closing speed) shut off ignition do the butterfly valves close? if the dk's are opening and closing- i'd rule them out.
if they are slow.. clean them (ynot posted a dk rebuild with pictures)

The dme issue of pulling 1 fuse and the car still runs - i've seen twice in the last year. puzzled the hell out of us the first time we saw it. the guys issue was a faulty fuel pump (it would pump fuel, but couldn't keep up with the fuel demands above idle) and IT had nothing to with the dme'S. I have yet to try this on my car.
Walt

OK thanks I'll pop it in PRONTO!

appreciate the kick up jacksie I needed motivating again. TA Nathan

did you check the engine temp sensors yet?
they are three sensors on the back of the engine.
they all need to finction right for the DME to send the right fuel mixture.
than if that is checked
look into new fuel pumps.
maybe you like to eliminate the intank fuel pumps completely and get walbro external fuel pumps.

Have you done a plug check to assure none are partly fouled,and what plugs did you use when replaced.You replaced fuel lines,go thru and retighten hose clamps.Mine leaked such small amounts there were no drips,no gas smell,but it made a differance.Don't forget the hoses in the tank on the pumps,mine was split and hard to see.Did you put gauges on to check fuel pressure ?Check the "gap" of the CPS's(may as well replace when you are there).Remove "crank vent" lines from intake and plug to make sure it not sucking unmetered air thru valves and check the rubber bends between MAF's and DK's for hairline cracks(leaks),also check the end caps on the intakes for leaks.Good luck

Have I found it? Top left plug (CPS) is showing 115K ohm

The other is about 580 K Ohms which I believe is the specified.

Strange thing is that it does indeed seem to be giving 2 Volts AC when cranking.

Have I got it guys?

(Before anyone goes mental local dealer is ordering my CEL light!!!)

Going to investigate with my torch (flashlight ... not oxy acetylene)

N

just to "try" them out...

You have the scale on your meter on the wrong setting. Go to the link posted above and look for page 1210.6 B-6 in the diagnostic manual mentioned. This will help you keep all the various signal paths straight and greatly aid in your diagnostics. A methodical approach is MUCH easier than trying to kill all the rats at once.



http://forums.roadfly.com/forums/bmw...9499853-1.html

ok, you do know that the other CPS plug is lower right... yes?

Very easy to confuse those connections.

for answers? Let us know, we are hanging here...