belts for 850ciA (Brit needs help please)
Hi. I need to change my drive belts as they havent been changed in a long time and show signs of cracking.
I have searched the archives.
I would like to have a picture of how the belts go around the water pump aircon pulley etc..
I am a little confused as to whether or not there are two alternators for the V12. I can definitely see one big usual looking one to the right of the engine bay as you open the hood. Is the other alternator much smaller and to the left of the engine bay?
I have fitted auxillary belts before in other cars but this one looks a little more complicated. I understand that once you know it takes around 10 mins. It helps if you take the fan off first and thats OK with me- I am just worried about which nut I have to undo first. I can see the tensioner which looks like a shock absorber. Can I change the belts from above or do I need to jack the car up and go fvrom the bottom?
The 2 belts are 6pk x 1080 and 5pk x 1165 ribbed as I understand.
thanks in advance
Re: belts for 850ciA (Brit needs help please)
I hope this helps
1991 BMW 850i 6Speed
1997 BMW 850Ci
1997 BMW 318ti
1999 Jeep Cherokee Sport
1974 Opel Manta Luxus
Some days it's just not worth chewing through the restraints
if car has more then 40-50k miles since the
belt/tensioner have been changed, order the tensioners too. They will not hold up the new belt. I changed the belts at 50k+ miles and the tensioner was so good I had to cut the belt off.
I installed new belts and they would not fit, they were way too loose. Long story short the tensioner was gone... they are not expensive and a good insurance against belt failure.
The pulley's are also weak, plastic ones are cracking over time and causing the belt to disintegrate.
Contact Phoenix motorsport for a alloy pulley set - a bit on the bling side (they are flashy colors or silver) but as all items GerryUK makes, they seem very good quality.
The only downside to the metal/alloy pulley's that they are supposed to be louder then plastic. I never measured the noise but I read once that it can cause a little extra noise.
while you are there, change the hoses as well. They age and they start to go bad from the inside so by the time you see any imperfection its too late.
not trying to suck you into a "while you are at it change the ... " game but these are inexpensive maintenance items which will fail anyway sooner or later. I like to change and fix things when they are still good and easy to just change an item instead of waiting when they fail and pay for a lot more then just a part (towing, rentacar, etc)
<a href="http://mydrive.roadfly.com/photos/pic.php?u=56726KDZYN&i=8969"><img src="http://mydrive.roadfly.com/photos/pic.php?u=56726KDZYN&i=8969" border="0"></a>
1997 BMW 840CiA
1990 BMW Z1
2002 Astro Van AWD
2003 Nissan 350Z Enthusiast Package
1987 BMW 535i with 5spd manual
1992 BMW 735iL
2007 Mazda CX9 AWD
1998 Yamaha Blaster+Breeze
1995 850CSI CD00177 (SOLD)
Try this-----> (hope the link works)
exactly what I was looking for! .............
Thanks very much TxGr8White but what is this BS about a second alternator?
I will buy the belts tomorrow and attempt to change the belts at the Bank Holiday weekend ( Extra Monday off as is a public holiday).
Any ideas as to check the tensioners and pulleys to see if they need replacing- I am on 100K miles.
Finally ,(if we just consider the lower tensioner) which nut do I undo? I think its the middle one and the one on the right on the pivot is the one to adjust the tension so no need for a prybar-am I right?
once again thank you all and I hope to let you know soooooon.
in addition: there is a second alternator offered
as an option on some euro (and possibly J-spec) cars. It is smaller than the one alternator and is located above the A/C compressor.
When yo loosen the center nut, you will see a larger "nut" cast into the tensioner arm - this is where you attach ta second wrench to "pry" the tensioner to the full limit while tightening the outboard nut. Once the outboard nut is tight, tighten the center nut to lock everything in place. When tensioning the belts, you must put the tensioner in the farthest (tightest) most position in order for it to work properly and avoid belt slippage.
Re: in addition: there is a second alternator offered
For reference, all J-specs came with the 2nd additional(32A) baby alternator. <img src="http://members.roadfly.com/wuffer/R1n2sig.jpg">
Langley, BC Canada
91 E31 WufferRed CB72884 FrankenBimmer
93 525iX Touring (wifemobile)
Also - Difference in A/C Belts
Bought a new AC Compressor for my '91 850, the replacement
had to have a different mounting bracket, a larger fan belt,
and replacement of the A/C slippage sensor relay.
This compressor and relay and belt was standard on later E-31's
where isthe A/C slippage sensor relay located pls?
Re: where isthe A/C slippage sensor relay located pls?
A little difficult to get to.
It is under the drivers floor side. Have to remove the
left speaker cover mat, (after the hood release handle & screw).
On the left lower body side there are several screws holding
a bracket which holds the mount for the relay. You have to
remove the bracket screws, then you can get to remove/exchange the old for new relay (See the electrical manual on Wuffer's site)
There were 2 relays produced, the old one would detect slippage
signals from the old A/C compressor and cut it off until you
shut down and re-started the engine.
The new compressor will not run with the old relay because it
does not send a signal to the relay ... Actually, it does nothing
but tell the new compressor to run, slippage or not. But,
the new compressor has a larger pully and belt, so I guess they
did not need a slippage signal
You have a leak in the system
The compressor clutch will not engage if the refrigerant pressure
is low, a switch disables it.
The "O-Rings" where the hoses hook to the compressor are the
first suspect place. There are 3 O-ring seals there,
the long irregular shaped one is probably bad.
Go to AutoZone or a parts store, or BMW, and get a replacement
kit of O-Rings, with a little dexterity, you can replace them
with the compressor on the car.
Re: You have a leak in the system
Hi. according to the a/c specialist I dont have a leak in the system. He used an expensive machine to first check for leak and then he filled with R134a + a/c lubricant so its a mystery. I will look further when I change belts this weekend and report back.
best wishes and thanks
Final update and slight help requierd please
I have replaced both belts today. Couldn't get the fan clutch mechanism off and I know that its a reverse thread.
Placed car on ramps. Took lower splash guard off. took off rad cowling plastic and hoses. Undid the two nuts near each of the tensioners.
Then cleaned rollers with rag. The thing is that I had to use a prybar to push the tensioners and then tighten the 2 nuts again. Very strange as someone earlier mentioned that I do not need a prybar. The 2 nuts were normal type nuts and not one with teeth in as my old e30 has.
refilled the coolant and started her up. I got a squeek for a few seconds as I thought that the belts were too slack and may need retensioning but squeek dissappeared and started again and no squeeks. i will try again tomorrow in daylight and report back.
Also as my aircon compressor was not spinning, I decided to take off the clutch and possibly lubricate it. The centre nut on the clutchwas removed and the gasket came off in pieces. Cleaned it then oiled it with WD40 and used hylomar blue instant gasket and stuck the old gasket and put it back . Was extremely worried about the clutch wabbling as when I cleaned it 2 semi circlips came off . I think it must be one circlip which had sheared into 2 pieces and just placed it back and hoped that the aircon spins fast like it once did but it spins still albeit slowly-hopefully as I drive it may free up and spin fast- if not a new compressor followed by regas might be in order.
I have a late 91 with R134a so dont know if an older compressor for R12 gas is OK from an old car or do I need a new type of compressor specifically for the R134a?
sorry for the long post but its a R anmd R procedure for the belt replacement to help the next guy.
The aircon clutch centre nut is 10mm.
The tensioner attachment nuts were 13mm.
The lower splash guard nuts were 8mm or 10mm.
Your AC compressor still needs some TLC
I would not turn the AC on, based on your remarks. Broken circlips and disintegrated clutch material don't make for harmonious rotation. Here's how another guy with a V12 repaired his:
AC clutch replacement
Contact me offline if you decide you need another compressor. I have a couple of them from RHD cars; IIRC there's a different mounting situation because of the lines from the PS pump.
Re: if car has more then 40-50k miles since the
I need to change belts and hoses on my Dakar M70 as at 90,000km I have never done so. Can you tell the address to email Phoenix Motorsport regarding the alloy pulleys ? Thanks :).........Kenhttp://forums1.roadfly.com/preferenc...php?img=135692