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The airbag light came on while I was driving last Sunday. I recall adjusting the seat's height. Not sure if it hapenned at the exact same time or not.
Any ideas what could be the cause here? Does anyone in the Central NJ area have the necessary tool to reset this light? Does the tool spit out the cause of the warning light?
Cheers
Ash
...but I'm going to be in/out of the country a lot for the next few months. Drop me an email and I can help you out. Stop by Radio Shack first and get some "Deoxit" spray (it looks like a can of binacca breath spray). That will likely fix you your problem and I'll reset your light.
I really appreciate that. I will email you and we can work out the details.
Thanks again
Ash
I am in Central NY if you ever come up this way.
This has been a problem on both E36s and the M roadster. For the E36s, the cure was to remove the seat, clean the connector, and then wire-tie the connector to the seat bottom. The plastic clip from the factory breaks, usually when adjusting the seat (particularly if there is anything under there, or a small child kicking the seat back).
The Peake tool will give you the error code, most likely "driver's side seat switch".
If any airbag component goes open circuit, even for a clock cycle or two, the computer sets the SRS flag, and it does not reset AFAIK, unless you use the tool.
In any event, these are nothing to mess with. You should find the fault and correct it. If not sure, take it to a mechanic. These are a "use at your own risk" kind of deal.
The tool is about $100 or so, you might be able to find one on eBay.
I highly recommend getting the regular Peake Code reader tool and a Bentley manual if you plan on owning an older BMW.
Good Luck.
Thanks Robert. I appreciate the offer to use the Peake tool. I am debating whether to purchase the tool at $100 since this is a common problem on these models. The Bentley model is high on my list as I plan to own this car for a long long long time :-). I purchased it over the Easter weekend and it only has 18k miles so far! Hoping to get lots more years out of it.
Thanks again
Ash
I'm going to be leaving town on short notice for a couple of weeks if you can wait. I'm willing to bet that the connectors under the seat are the problem, though. If you disconnect them, shoot them with the Deoxit (as described on the can) and reconnect, it should be a quick reset. That was my problem both times (the fault code always says it's the seatbelt pretensioner, though). I should have email where I'm going (mostly) so drop me a line and we'll figure out when/where you want to get together.
<b><a href="http://www.texzan.com">www.texzan.com</a>
<img src="http://www.texzan.com/texzansig.jpg">
97 2.8 <font color="Gray">Arctic Silver </font>- <font color="DarkRed">Tanin Red interior </font>with <font color="Sienna">wood console</font> - black top</b>
Whalen Shift Machine, polished - Type II windscreen (non roll-hoops) - Bilstein HD shocks/struts
Axxis Metal Master pads - Brembo rotors - Doug Whalen seat bushings
Passenger Eject (unfortunately non-functional) - OEM Passenger Airbag Disable switch
Polk Audio all around - Blaupunkt PA amps - LeatherZ Mark II armrest - Strong Strut Trio
I think I have three code readers and two SRS readers. But I have four BMWs in two States.
The Bently manuals are great and answer a lot of questions. The new X5 manual isn't cheap, but it is the size of the Manhattan phone directory.
The Bav Auto brake bleeder is a nice toy to have, too. Yea, I have two of those, too. So hate me.
Fluid changes seem to help these cars last longer. I am doing a 100,000 mile service on the X5 right now, bleeding brakes, changing "lifetime" fluids, putting in a new water pump, DISA valve, etc.
In 20,000 miles, the ATE super blue turned from bright blue to green. No wonder BMW recommends flushing the brakes regularly!
BTW, put 50,000 miles on these pads and rotors and there is tons of pad left. It helps to anticipate stops.....
No worries. I can wait for two weeks. In the meantime I will work on the deoxit solution. Do I need to remove the seats? If so how easy is it?
I bought the Peake tool off ebay for about $100, cleared the code, and it hasn't come back yet. So you may want to just buy the tool, clear the code and hope it doesn't come back. By the time you fool around with taking the seats out, cleaning the contacts, driving back and forth to Delaware, etc., a hundred bucks for the tool may look cheap.
Phil '97 1.9 Montreal Blue
I agree with you completely and I am leaning towards purchasing the tool. I was just going to use the opportunity to meet another fellow Z3er and of course an excuse to enjoy a nice chilled Guinness :-)
Cheers
Drop me an email if you want to stop by at some point.
<b><a href="http://www.texzan.com">www.texzan.com</a>
<img src="http://www.texzan.com/texzansig.jpg">
97 2.8 <font color="Gray">Arctic Silver </font>- <font color="DarkRed">Tanin Red interior </font>with <font color="Sienna">wood console</font> - black top</b>
Whalen Shift Machine, polished - Type II windscreen (non roll-hoops) - Bilstein HD shocks/struts
Axxis Metal Master pads - Brembo rotors - Doug Whalen seat bushings
Passenger Eject (unfortunately non-functional) - OEM Passenger Airbag Disable switch
Polk Audio all around - Blaupunkt PA amps - LeatherZ Mark II armrest - Strong Strut Trio