How much for new transmission?
On the way to work when auto trans started shaking and light came on dash. DRove car to BMW shop and they said codes indicate possible leak. Dealer said they were going to let car cool down and check fluid level. Then he said it could be leak between engine and transmission or transmission itself. If that is the case $5,100 for a new transmission????????/
1998 1.9
Does that sound right to you??<A HREF="http://www.racefanstv.com/index.cfm?template=magazine&mti=15">Read "Through The Esses" on RaceFansTV.com</A>
<A HREF="http://www.ashautomobilia.com">ashautomobilia.com</A>
<A HREF="http://www.theracesite.com">TheRaceSite.com</A>
<A HREF="http://www.dailysportscar.com">dailysportscar.com</A>
http://forums1.roadfly.com/preferenc....php?img=73453
Re: How much for new transmission?
It seems to me that quite a few years ago the standard in my 98 1.9 was around 4k. Being up in the year category however could have fouled my memory.98 Z3 1.9 ; HMS strut tower brace, antisway bars, and roll bar; Supersprint cat back exhaust; Dinan chip; Whalen Shift Machine; Strong-Strut Butt strut; FOGGED air box, Downing Atlanta Supercharger.http://forums1.roadfly.org/preferenc....php?img=78605
I think if I were doing it today
98 Z3 1.9 ; HMS strut tower brace, antisway bars, and roll bar; Supersprint cat back exhaust; Dinan chip; Whalen Shift Machine; Strong-Strut Butt strut; FOGGED air box, Downing Atlanta Supercharger.http://forums1.roadfly.org/preferenc....php?img=78605
If you can, post the codes that the dealer found
The GM 4L30e has different case variations. If you're looking used, try to find one that has the same case designation (two letters on the serial number plate - you can also find it in RealOEM.com).
The pump seal will require the transmission to be
dropped to fix. You won't need a complete rebuild unless you've had low fluid for many a mile.....
Re: The pump seal will require the transmission to be
I intend to take the car back from the dealer tomorrow and take it to a transmission shop. I have no idea how long fluid may have been leaking, but I suspect it only started recently as I don't see any significant amount of liquid on the garage floor. I'll let the transmission pros give me a second opinion.
Any chance the fluid being low is just a normal issue attributable to the fact that the car has close to 100,000 miles on it, with a sealed transmission that has never been serviced? I mean, could the fluid have simply boiled away or otherwise evaporated? You can tell I am not a mechanic with these questions! <A HREF="http://www.racefanstv.com/index.cfm?template=magazine&mti=15">Read "Through The Esses" on RaceFansTV.com</A>
<A HREF="http://www.ashautomobilia.com">ashautomobilia.com</A>
<A HREF="http://www.theracesite.com">TheRaceSite.com</A>
<A HREF="http://www.dailysportscar.com">dailysportscar.com</A>
http://forums1.roadfly.com/preferenc....php?img=73453
Not likely, usually the shaft seals are the
culprit behind low fluid (or an improperly done fluid level check). Usually the rear or output shaft seals go first. The accumulator cover can leak as well.
Are you the original owner? I've seen some photos of some transmission additives that did a job on the pump gasket and seals before.
Always ask the shop how they are going to check the fluid level. To get max fluid level - trans fluid temp should be at 85 deg F, A/C should be ON and car running and level. Most tranny shops won't be able to check in the fluid temp (sensor is in the wiring in the large valve body) without having a BMW diagnostic setup. Using an IR temp meter and the valve pan at about 80 deg would probably get you pretty close. This is typically ambient air temp in the summer, so most BMW dealers cool the tranny with fans before doing the check.
Re: Not likely, usually the shaft seals are the
If the shaft seals are to blame, should a tranny shop be able to make repairs at a reasonable cost vs new transmission?<A HREF="http://www.racefanstv.com/index.cfm?template=magazine&mti=15">Read "Through The Esses" on RaceFansTV.com</A>
<A HREF="http://www.ashautomobilia.com">ashautomobilia.com</A>
<A HREF="http://www.theracesite.com">TheRaceSite.com</A>
<A HREF="http://www.dailysportscar.com">dailysportscar.com</A>
http://forums1.roadfly.com/preferenc....php?img=73453
It depends on the collateral damage of having
low fluid. If the clutches are burned, then a complete rebuild would be needed. After the top off of the fluid is it shifting okay?
Referencing this link:
GM 4L30e Exploded View and Parts List
I suspect that seal 070 is bad. 074 could be bad as well.
Removing and re-installing the transmission costs the same whether it's a new tranny or seal replacement on your original. The difference is the seal cost and labor cost of replacing the seal versus the cost of used/rebuilt tranny. I'd really want to know if the internals are okay before considering just a seal replacement.
Second update after dealer
The car has been in the driveway a few hours now. Pulled out the cardboard from under it and I see one quarter-size fluid stain. It appears to be a single 'drip' as it isn't really 'wet' or dark. Does this suggest it is a slow leak and one not requiring immediate attention....or am I just deluding myself (and my wallet)?
<A HREF="http://www.racefanstv.com/index.cfm?template=magazine&mti=15">Read "Through The Esses" on RaceFansTV.com</A>
<A HREF="http://www.ashautomobilia.com">ashautomobilia.com</A>
<A HREF="http://www.theracesite.com">TheRaceSite.com</A>
<A HREF="http://www.dailysportscar.com">dailysportscar.com</A>
http://forums1.roadfly.com/preferenc....php?img=73453
Assuming you've never had it topped off before, it
sounds like a very slow leak. You have about 9qts in the system, about 4qts of those in the pans and rest in the torque converter and cooling system. I would clean the area at the bottom of the bell housing and check for color changes there.
I'm still a little confused as to whether BMW "thought" it was leaking in the front or they "knew" it was leaking from the front seal?
I would clean the areas at the rear of the tranny as well as the side accumulator cover (on passenger side) to check for leaking as well.
As for driving it, I probably would and keep an eye on the amount it leaks especially if you park it at work during the day, etc. However, I accept no liability that it will not cause you any further issues versus letting it sit parked. Just wanted to add that disclaimer....
I think I would still take it , get a 2nd opinion
98 Z3 1.9 ; HMS strut tower brace, antisway bars, and roll bar; Supersprint cat back exhaust; Dinan chip; Whalen Shift Machine; Strong-Strut Butt strut; FOGGED air box, Downing Atlanta Supercharger.http://forums1.roadfly.org/preferenc....php?img=78605
Sorry to be a bearer of bad tidings..
The problems with BMW automatics are well documented in other forums, such as the E36 forum.
Many BMWs of that era used a GM Hydromatique du France automatic, including the E36, the Z3 and even the early X5.
GM makes a helluva automatic transmission that can last for 200,000 miles or more, if it is serviced properly. This means not overheating it, checking the fluid level and condition regularly, and changing the fluid every 50,000 miles, if not more often.
Unfortunately, BMW took this robust transmission, removed the dipstick, and then told owners the fluid was "lifetime" and didn't need to be changed.
Um, OK.
Without a dipstick, you can't read the fluid level, so you don't know if it is going low on fluid. With a dipstick, you could keep adding fluid to a leaky transmission - for years sometimes - without damage. But without a dipstick, well, Ouch.
When the fluid level goes low, the torque converter churns the fluid, causing it to foam and the car to slip. The fluid heats up and turns brown (again, something you can tell WITH A DIPSTICK!). Once it is brown, it loses all its lubricity and the transmission catastrophically fails shortly thereafter.
Rebuilt transmissions for these cars usually run $3000 plus installation, from the dealer. For many older BMWs, this, or an overheating scenario, is the deathknell. The cost of repair exceeds the book value. No matter how pretty the car is, it is not cost-effective to repair it and many people junk these cars at this point.
You may be able to repair the car more cheaply at an independent shop. But it will still be pricey. Frankly, you should not be taking decade-old cars to a dealer for service - it is just too darn expensive.
If the fluid has gone bad and taken out the tranny, chances are it needs a total rebuild. And it is possible it may not be rebuildable.
Another cheaper alternative is to find a used tranny from a low mileage wrecked BMW. I would look into that alternative first, then look into a 3rd party rebuild - all from an independent mechanic, not the dealer.
Transmission fluid leaks are no joke on these cars. If you see fluid, find the leak and fix it. If the car is slipping, have the fluid level checked right away. The E36 board had a number of sob stories from folks who "noticed it slipping" and let it go for a month or so, only to later have to install a rebuilt tranny.
Sorry to hear of your misfortune. Good Luck!
Gald to hear it worked out!
See my posting above.
As others have noted, transmission fluid leaks are no joke on these cars.
If it goes too low on fluid, it will take out the whole tranny.
See if you can fix the leak, or at least keep a sharp eye on it.
With a dipstick on the transmission, this would not be an issue, would it?
Good Luck..
At the front or rear of the transmission?