Are you sure you don't have air pockets in your
cooling system. It sure sound like the right symptoms.
1998 BMW 540i 6 speed
Arctic silver, M sport suspension (euro delivery), prod. date 05/98, non VANOS
Staggered 18" style 32 OEM wheels
3.15 open differential
AFE CAI with improved heat shield
VDO oil pressure and temperature gauges in place of headlight/fog switches
Powder coated valve covers-satin black
AEA DRL module (aftermarket daytime running lights)
1997 BMW 528iA
Alpine white, premium package, prod. date 04/97, single VANOS
Staggered 17" style 32 OEM wheels
AEA DRL module
Custom made sun blinds for rear seating area
2000 Nissan Frontier Desert Runner, AKA "The Work Horse"
Direct Lift Pro Park 8
Campbell Hausfeld 28 gallon oil lubricated air compressor
Newair ACP-1400H portable air conditioner and heater
Auto Enginuity scan tool with BMW enhanced option
Actron 9135 scan tool-for quick readouts
Re: Are you sure you don't have air pockets in your
Well, you can never be sure with this car. I have bled it with no change in the condition. I have recently had the radiator replaced due to the traditional neck break and they also bled it. I also had a new resevoir put on by the dealer aroung 85,000 miles. This condition has been intermittant since the end of last winter.
Have to agree with BMW540san, sounds like (m)
you still have some air in the system, or possibly the small pump below the two solenoid valves you replaced is not running all the time.
If you can reach the pump with the engine running you can feel if the motor is running, it pumps the coolant to the cabin heater core.
The only other thing I think it could be (long shot) is the heater door flaps aren't working properly.
If we knew the last 7 digits of your VIN we could(
tell you more.
I picked out a Jan '02 production date for the link below. This one has 2 pumps, the one under the solenoids you replace is #6. There is a aux pump also #2.
You can also find most of this info if you put the last 7 digits of your VIN into the serial number box.
If your engine is fully heated up and your heating system is OK you should feel very hot air coming from the vents under the dash.
Forget about the 3 dot wheel, that just varies the temp of the air coming out of the top center vent.
If you have hot air coming out of the vents and you manually turn the fan speed up to max do you continue to get hot air, or does the air temp start to get cooler?
One other thing you could try is to unplug the connector for the 2 soleniod valves, #6. This will keep the valves open and allow hot coolant to continously flow to the cabin heater core. See if you get more heat when it's disconnected. The HVAC panel opens and closes these valves to regulate the temp. It's possible they are being kept closed for a longer period of time than normal by the HVAC panel.
Re: If we knew the last 7 digits of your VIN we could(
Well, I have verified the aux pump is working and will set about ensuring the system is thoroughly bled. The VIN is CK27408.
When you bled it the last time, did you elevate>>
the front end of the car?
Jim Cash has posted here the correct bleeding procedure.
Ed in San Jose. BMW CCA member since 1987 (Nr. 62319). Golden Gate Chapter. '97 540i 6 speed. Build Date 3/97. Aspensilber over Aubergine leather.
A couple of things to try...
1. Vacuum out the temp "sniffer" vent louvre just to the right of the fan control button - it may be giving a false reading if no cabin air is being pulled into it due to it being clogged with dust.
2. As many of us here are thinking, there's air in the system. With the engine cold, check the coolant level, top it off if nec. Drive to where you can park on a steep uphill (driveway, loading dock ramp, grassy knoll). Park with the front of the car raised, engine running, and heat on full hot. Stay here for 5 to 10 minutes, revving the engine once in a while. Next, drive home, park, open the bleed screw on the t-stat housing slowly, with a rag wrapped around the area, to relase any air trapped. Close it as soon as coolant flows from the screw. Don't over tighten the screw as it can crack.
This will pretty much rule out having air in the system.