Looking to buy a '95 to '98 BMW 740iL

[bubbastomp]

I am thinking of buying a used BMW 740iL within the next year. I am just a poor family man, and there is no possible way to buy a new one. A new BMW would cost more then my first house. I am looking for tips on what to look for and what to avoid in a used 740iL. My best friend has a 1995 740iL, and I fell in love with the darn thing. I am reading alot of horrior stories about repairs, and I am thinking this my be a poor choice in love interests.
I am looking for the facts good or bad about these cars. I need objective facts not rants. Please let me know what year and make the car you have is and what needed to be fixed and how much. I know there was an issue with the engine blocks on the 95 version. What numbers should I look for? How do I know legitimate recall work was done on the vehicle? Special problem areas to look for? I read ALOT about cup holders breaking. That is of no issue to me. The Germans put those in on a whim to make the Americans happy. I will be driving this car daily. I will not be drinking coffee in it. Thank you for any insight you can give.

[Tomgolder]

Regret it if you find and buy a seven series, any E38 in these times will have neglect issues unless you get it from someone who is a fiend about PM and upkeep. If you do not have excellent DIY skills at this time and a good set of tools, and some deep pockets- don't buy one.. That said- there are some good ones out there-our 98-750il ( 4 years possession ) has been superb, would not part with it for any reason short of a comet landing on it-however I have maintained it as though it were an aircraft, will continue to do so, when another comes along with some issues-I will buy it as low as possible and keep for donor purposes.

[S itteve]

I am a fair mechanic. I am able change heads, intakes, cams, etc. I have restored a few cars. They where nothing like a concourse resto, but it was a frame off. I have the skills and the tools to work on a domestic, but I am not familiar with BMW.

[naveen]

[Steve]

I am located in Eastern North Carolina.

[Greg Pulse]

No matter what someone says, after about 70K miles, all kinds of odd things start going wrong. These cars are not engineered in the same mode of thinking as american cars. Maintenance costs even doing it yourself makes you wonder if there another vehicle you would have preferred. There is nothing enjoyable about doing maintenance on one of these either. Mine appeared perfect. Since the 69K mile mark, I have replaced several pulleys, belts, 4 contol arms, brakes, rotors, Xenon ignitor, 2 radiators( my mistake on the first installations bleeding of fluid), Auxillary fan, right rear power window regulator, Cup holders (2), All four struts, oh, and the converters were clogged at 99K miles and the sunroof ate its lower cover.

[claudio512]

Avoid cars north of the Dixie-Mason line or anywhere, which may be impregnated in brine and other winter solutions. Add to the list, those cars with several state registrations [more than one state]. As well as, cars from South Florida that are low mileage or/and excellent condition. As always, review eBay's feedback before committing yourself. LOL


... la vendeta è dolce!!!

[david and his wife Ann]

My wife Ann owned her first new 740il in Hong Kong and now she has to sell her white [since new] one(1994) since we downsized and it doesnt fit in our garage very well....
I am not too sure if you are still interested.....

let us know.....it has original 61,000miles and in pristine condition

best regards
David and Ann in Toronto

[Chip]

Belts, arms, brake pads and rotors, struts are all normal wear items. You replace that stuff on all cars once they pass 70K.

[Conrad Mercado]

I have a 1995 BMW 740i, I need to upgrade the sound system because there's not much BASS on it. Anybody have an idea with rgards to addind a SUB WOOFER?

[Bill Dyer]

Hello:

I have a '97 BMW 740i. It has been a great car but, recently, I have experienced a loud squealing engine noise. I took the car to a mechanic and he says the noise is coming from somewhere between the engine and the transmission. Might be a bearing gone bad? It is also now blowing blue smoke when I first start it up.

Does anyone have any thoughts or recommendations on what to do next? I am reluctant to bring it to a BMW dealer. It is a '97 and has 158K. Please help!!!

Thanks for your help.

Bill

[davros99]

Steve,

Contact me about locating a 740i. davros99@netzero.net

Patrick

[john]

You need to get the crankcase ventilation valve replaced. It's on the back of the intake manifold. The noise is coming from the back of the engine. It's the sound of the rear main seal fluttering becuse vaccum is being applied directly on the crankcase also allowing engine oil to be sucked in to the manifold and burned causing the smoke. 4-5 hour fix if you do it right... 15 years with BMW's.

[jkr66stang]

What's wrong with low mileage south Florida cars?

[Rolie]

I have a 1998 740il which had the same noise from in between the engine and tranny.My mechanic showed me that it was coming from the tranny and proved it by spraying water into a hole on the bottom of the tranny and suddenly the noise dissapeared but came back when the water was dried out.He told me it was my torque converter but I will take it to the dealer for a second opinion.I'll update!My car also blows white smoke and idles poorly with 126,00 miles after one week of purchase.It seems that all 740il cars have these symptoms.I found a leak under my intake and it is problably causing the poor idle.

[Bob H.]

It surely sounds like the oil separating valve has gone bad. There's a lot of information on www.e38.org concerning the repair of the problem. Several back yard mechanics have been able to directly remove the valve without taking of the intake manifold, injectors, and electsrical ducts on top of the engine. But it requires dexterity and luck, because the 7 torx bolts are very difficult to get out without stripping. Read the several articles, then give it a try. Their method is a five hour deal, but removing the manifold, as I had to do last week after stripping the torx bolts, took about 16 hours total, including meticulous cleanup of the components. The part costs about $90 at the dealer. I understand that a BMW dealer will charge over $1300 for the work. I did it for $90, and was able to clean up the oil mess in the manifold, including the injectors (they had quite a residue of carbonized oil on them, effecting the spray pattern). The car runs like new now (has 85K) with absolutely no smoke. Just before doing the repair, I had a 800 mile trip and burned four quarts of oil, just being sucked into the inlet manifold via the bad OSV valve. If you decide to remove the manifold, I have a few tips: just contact me. Good luck.

[sam]

Just bought 1995 740i with 105.000 k from the 2nd day some needs
to be replaced costing me a small fortune, save your money and sanity. Good Luck.
Sam

[ncgoing]

I have my first and last E38, I have owned lots of cars in my 73 years. Not since a 72 Plymouth have I had so much trouble.
latest is water pump, I replaced it at 75K as preventive maintenance.
Guess what, the new one is slinging coolant now. Radiator, tank,
thermostat, Crank vent system, valve cover gaskets rear control arms,
rear brake caliper sticking. I have a 93 Buick Ultra with super
charger and 188k on it which has given no trouble except routine
stuff. My son's 01 X5 is just as bad.

[prodigaltom]

You'll probably save on repairs. Then, get a 3rd-party warranty from a reputable company. I use Warranty America. I've had a lot of repairs, but they have been mostly covered.

Tom
<li>'97 850Ci (2nd-to-last exported to US, 39k miles)
<li>'00 740iL
<li>'01 SLK230
<li>'03 H2
<li>'81 De Lorean DMC-12 (retrofitted for time travel)