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  1. #1
    Chart505
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    Convertible top fuse/relay location?

    Before you send my there, I went to the E30 cabrio blog on Yahoo- no help. I have had this 92 325i cab for a couple of weeks, top has stopped working cold turkey- was in great shape, no probs, new top, etc. I am assuming a fuse, relay? But where to find? Manual does not address convertible top at all.


  2. #2
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    Re: Convertible top fuse/relay location?


    I would look it up for you, but recently lost 80% of my reference materials (hard drive died, while I was trying to backup the stuff that was on it). Did you try asking for help on this group?
    If you have a good relationship with a local bmw dealer, they will probably tell you which fuse. The ETM for a 91,92 or 93 325iC should have the circuit diagram for a power top.

    Keith
    www.e30ic.com

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    I believe it may be fuse 16

    FIND THE PROBLEM BEFORE BUYING $$$$$$$ PARTS

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    "Note: Anytime I post I am only talking about USA cars unless otherwise noted. So please don't hammer me on some stupid European detail that wasn't supposed to be here in the first place."

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  4. #4
    92mtechcabrio
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    Re: Convertible top fuse/relay location?

    i have the same problem too-top just stop working "cold turkey" was fine the other day with a new top and rebuilt motors-never had problems before.even during the top motor rebuild-it just stop all of a sudden-power is getting to the top motor control box-so confused-kinda getting fed up w/ the car,thinking of parting it out and just buying an e36 vert instead....

  5. #5
    Michael W.
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    Micro switches

    I had a similar problem with my '92ic. When I bought it the top was dead, the PO having said that it was working fine albeit sluggishly, then bang, one day nothing. I went through and pulled and tested the two motors, checked the harness, control module, microswitches. It all tested ok. Still didn't work. So I thought why not, let's try fiddling with the microswitches. One small turn on the adjusting screw for the lid cover motor switches and it's all working fine. That was about two months ago, no further problems.

    Let me know if you need help locating or doing the actual adjusting on the switches. It's very straight forward, once you find 'em.

    HTH,

    Michael

  6. #6
    Chart505
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    Re: Micro switches

    THanks, would like to try to fix- where exactly are these microswitches?

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    Re: Convertible top fuse/relay location?

    From the ETK it shows the fuse 21 and 25 give the control unit power at all times, fuse 4 is giving power in run or start. If there is a CB or additional relays, they're not listed in the schematic.

    M.W.

  8. #8
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    Re: Micro switches (long)

    This may be way too much info, but here we go...

    Okay, the first thing you need to do, if you haven't already, is get a copy of the schematic from the ETK for the power top. I got a copy from my friendly dealer, but I believe there is one posted somewhere online (either here or at e30ic.com??) It's not a great help, but at least it shows wiring color, schematics and components. There are a total of six microswitches in the system, however one is on the HTK but not in the schematic--danke, Fritz. The first switch is called the 'dead point MS', and is located on the windshield header, right side. If you pull the trim loose (remove sun visor, sun visor bracket, windlace, something else I'm forgetting...) you will see it fixed to the spot where the latch mechanism meets the header. It's job is to tell the computer that the top has been pushed back from the windshield so it's okay to start the opening sequence. Mine was bad but this didn't have any impact on the system, as it just thought the top was already unlocked and pushed up. Mystery switch is down in the top Ďwellí, left side, virtually underneath where the folding mechanism bolts to the body. Iím assuming (I know, dangerous) it tells the computer when the top is fully retracted, as it is switched on only when the top is all the way down.

    Remove the trunk trim that covers the top motors, otherwise it will be impossible to access the motors or the remaining switches.

    There are two switches for each motor, S3 and S4 for the lid cover and S1 and S2 for the top motor. If you use a good work light you can see stamped into the motors metal casings the switch designations.

    The switches for the top lid are mounted to the left of the motor, behind a black metal bracket. This is the spot where you release the motor in case the system has failed. To the left of this is a small plastic screw where you actually do the adjustment. You may have to loosen the mounting bolt at the far left to get the adjusting screw to move. A multimeter will tell you exactly when the switches are opening and closing (and whether or not theyíre good), but all I did was give the screw a small turn and the system was working. I believe S4 is open, S3 closed. The switches move in unison, so by turning the screw one way both switches move an equal distance, ditto the opposite direction.

    The top motor switches are a lot harder to see, but if you basically crawl in the trunk youíll have a fine view. They are partially hidden behind a bracket that is attached to the bottom of the motor assy. I didnít adjust mine at all, but did clean out a bunch of grease that had leaked down over time from the gear assy. They were so gummed up that one of them wasnít turning off when it should. I would be VERY leery of adjusting these switches unless absolutely necessary. Iím no electrical engineer, but it would seem that these switches serve several functions, telling the computer when the rear bow is up, or fully in the well, and where the top is in its sequence. If one of these is moved out of adjustment the wrong way it could definitely screw up your top motor.

    Sorry this is so long, but I hope it helps. The power tops really arenít overly complicated, itís just kind of hard getting them in adjustment with no supporting literature.

    Good luck,

    Michael W.






  9. #9
    Chart505
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    Thanks, will give it a try


  10. #10
    Chart505
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    Still not working- how to remove dash switch?

    slot 16 is vacant, as are 15, 25 and 26.
    I checked the motors, they work fine, switch on windshield is good.
    Only thing I can think of is a bad dash switch. What is the best way to pop these out? I assume there is not fusible link or something like that.

  11. #11
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    Must be switch

    Well, I got switch out, it has power, motors work, etc. So I think its the switch.

  12. #12
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    Convertible and Manual Operation Problem

    My mom has a 91 325i convertible. She has had it since new and it only has 102,000 miles on it now. Laguna Green with Tan interior. Looks excellent. Several years ago, her top was slashed in her office parking lot so she had a new top installed. The installer did not link all the power top stuff up properly and eventually, the power top was disconnected and the car became a power/manual convertible. The only thing that is still power operated is the boot lid.

    To operate the convertible top, you put the windows down, pop the front of the top at the windshield, manually lift the read window section up, then press the power top button to open the boot, manually lower the top into the storage compartment, and finally push the power top button again to close the boot.

    Recently, a read side window motor had to be replaced and ever since then, the boot will not close when the top has been lowered into the storage compartment. We think the installer tried to jerk the boot lid open instead of using the switch. Everything looks and works as it should until the top is lowered. The boot lid will open and close as long as the top is in the almost closed position. The boot lid will just not close with the switch.

    Does anyone on this thread have any idea why this is happening? Is there a limit switch somewhere that is not working maybe or is it just an adjustment on the motor somewhere? Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks so much.
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