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  1. #1
    Alex in S. FL
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    Heater valve test and questions

    Posted: 26 Jul 2006 14:30 Post subject: Heater valve test and questions

    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    Hey everybody,

    I am back to restoring the interior and have gotten to my AC and Heating section. I have replaced everything since my heater core leaked. Before I tackle my AC problem, which is compressor doesnt turn on when I hit the AC button, but I can jump it directly and it works, I want to make sure my heater is working. Besides changing out my heater core, I changed out diaphram in the heater valve, temp control knob, heater core sensor. I had tested the knob before and it was getting erractic voltage to the heater valve. I swapped out the piece with one my father had in the garage. I do notice voltage changes if my is completely turned on versus just the key turned. The way the heater valve works is that when it gets full voltage, it closed the valve and no water goes into the heater core. When I turn the knob over to the coldest setting, I get +13v. I keep getting the same reading until finally I move the knob over to about 3 o'clock positon, when it start to fluctuate between the +13v and 0.07v. And when I place it to the hottest setting, it stays at 0.07v. This seems ok but being that it is not 0v and 0.07v I just want to make sure its ok. The bentley just has a voltage test against the knob, but no real test for the knob itself. I still have to check my interior temp sensor and heater core temp sensor. The heater core temp sensor is new and I have tested both for resistance, but this time I want to compare it to a thermometer, which I forgot to bring it yesterday to the garage.

    I want to make the water is flowing correctly. I believe of the 2 hoses coming to and from the heater core, the top one is the return to the engine and the bottom one comes for the heater valve. I used the parts diagram and parts nameing for this. I guess I can try disconnecting the hose and add another hose to see if water flows accordingly. Does this sound good? I try to touch it, but the engine heats up everything in the engine bay so I can't get a good assumption. Before 2yrs ago when I had the car running I would notice heat when AC was on, which would had made sense since the knob would keep the valve open at all times, but the diaphram rubber was damaged. I ran the heater last friday. I opened the top and lower vents and with a thermoter, i got + 120 degrees right at the lower vent. Outside it was +90. So I know the heater is working just want to make sure it works automatically, becasue when I lowered the temp on the knob, I would get no change, maybe becasue of the sensors or because its running the heater valve open all the time. I might have to test this during a cooler time, maybe at night.

    My father sold his 2 e28's so I have nothing to compare it too. If anybody is in my area, Miami, FL, I can bring my multimeter over to take some readings, I would appreciate it.

    Any help or ideas will be greatly appreciated.

    Alex
    88 m5
    91 318is
    04 civic


  2. #2
    Bruce
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    this may help


    heater valve

    I think that show the hose location according to it's shape.

    As far as the voltage, this is a simple on off valve that is controlled based on the heater core temp and the car's interior temp.
    Look at the ETM page 6411 to see the module that controls it.

    look for AC control section

    I think that using a test light on the valve will be better than a multi meter. will give you a better sense of On and Off without trying to undersand fractions of a volt. These older cars are pretty safe to probe around with a test light.


  3. #3
    Alex in S. FL
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    Re: this may help

    Thanks Bruce.

    Using the diagram is how I came up with my guess for the hose. But the actual shapes versus the diagram are a little different. I thing my guess is right, but only way to find out is unpluging the hose.

    I will test the modules, but didnt have my thermometer at the time. But I use the the test light. Maybe the on and off like you said is good enough.

    Would you know if the orientatino of the connector matters? The connector has a specific groove but fits both ways on the valve itself. I know the wires are different but not sure if one is + vs the other -.

    thanks

    Alex

  4. #4
    Bruce
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    If you can wait a couple of days..

    Im going to where my M5 is tomorrow, and will be doing some work on it.. I can tell you about the hoses and wires when I get there...

  5. #5
    Alex in S. FL
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    Re: If you can wait a couple of days..

    thanks so much. I totally forgot that i had a copy of the bmw workshop manual for the m6. So I looked at the heating section and has a huge troubleshooting procedure for the heater. Will follow them this weekend. Even shows the diagram of the water flow thru the valve. Just doesnt have orientation of plug, which might not matter, but want to be sure. So I will be testing all the sensors against a thermometer, testing the electical side of the valve. It said you use a test light like you said. It uses 4 second intervals. So as long as my sensors are fine, i will see if my temp control is working fine.

    Alex

  6. #6
    Bruce
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    YOU have a M6 Manual!!!!!!!!!! SLS SLS SLS SLS

    let me know there is any info about how to install and bleed new rear shocks..!!!!!!!!!

    Bruce

  7. #7
    Alex in S. FL
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    Re: YOU have a M6 Manual!!!!!!!!!! SLS SLS SLS SLS

    will look into it when i get home.

    Alex

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    Re: YOU have a M6 Manual!!!!!!!!!! SLS SLS SLS SLS

    Bruce, just checked the manuaul, its for a 635csi - M6. Looks like only engine is covered. There is a chapter 37, which is called intergraded suspension system, but i have it missing. I just have the regular suspension stuff.


    sorry

    Alex

  9. #9
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    here is an update

    Ok, here is an update of today. I checked out using a test lamp to test the temp knob, and everything is fine. I get the 4 second delay. Also the heater core temp sensor is fine. The interior temp sensor works but not correctly. It is off by 10 degrees. Will get one this week. Either I order a new one or find a good used one. Any idea on price? The next test is to look at heater valve. The insert part is brand new. I dont get any thump or feel any vibration when i would hit the control knob. The bmw manual say to jump it directly. I tried that and nothing either. Here is the question, even if i change the insert, can it still not work? Maybe the electrical side is bad or corroded. Do you know if I can by the casing with out the insert?

    alex

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    Re: YOU have a M6 Manual!!!!!!!!!! SLS SLS SLS SLS

    I have a copy of the BMW M5/M6 manual and I'm in Milton,Ontario. I'll try and remember to check in the suspension section tonight. If the information you require is there I'll give you the details or if you want you can drop around to the house and check out the manual for yourself.

  11. #11
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    Short answer : yes.

    Link for you...


    http://member.rivernet.com.au/btaylo...OfInCabin.html



    Scottie Sharpe
    Provider of Mass Air Flow Conversion Kits for BMWs
    www.scottiesharpe.com/store

    88 Dinan-badged M5, M88 motor with BTP mass air flow conversion, Dinan Stage 4 suspention, Dinan 17x9.5 3pc wheels, 255/40 Conti Sport X 4, Racing Dynamics software, e34 rear brakes, B&B Stainless steel Exhaust, F&R LaDue stainless steel strut bars.
    91 318iC
    73 Bavaria
    67 1602 Ireland coil overs, brembo brakes, Dual Solex 40 PHH
    Do you BMWwikiwiki.com ??


  12. #12
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    Re: YOU have a M6 Manual!!!!!!!!!! SLS SLS SLS SLS


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    Re: YOU have a M6 Manual!!!!!!!!!! SLS SLS SLS SLS

    Sorry for the spurious post, Bruce, something happened and my whole message got wiped out, which, if you're as pathetic typist as I am, is very painful. What I found out last night was that the manual only has information on "normal" shock absorbers. The specifications and torque requirements handbook is of considerably more assistance, it helpfully suggests referring to "Group 37", which, apparently, I don't have. The rear suspension on my own car is in need of serious attention, but I'm waiting for my hoist to arrive and get installed before launching this program. Having spent the largest part of m working career designing automotive, motorcycle and military shock absorbers I have the intention to disect the components of the damping/levelling system to see how they work. I am digital camera enabled but will probably have to send out an S.O.S. when it comes time to post photos

  14. #14
    Bruce
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    i changed my sls shocks... was not a bad job

    back in 03 I bought some supposedly very slightly used rear shocks. I never installed them till this week. I got new accumulators and the connecting hoses and changed it all over the last 2 afternoons.

    I used a syringe, and prefilled the shocks upside down on the workbench, then attached the hose. and filled that also. I then attached the accumulator bottle to the hose and you can easily carry and turn it right side up and install it in the car without spilling any.

    cant tell how they work now, because the front struts are still out.
    Had some big thunderstorms here and we lost power for 30 hours, and so my neighbour's air compressor, spring compressor and impact gun were not running. Hopefully news tomorrow..

    Bruce, ( driving past Miltin to London, ON, on Sunday ...)

  15. #15
    Alex in S. FL
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    thanks.


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    Re: i changed my sls shocks... was not a bad job

    It sounds like you got the procedure about right. The only thing that i would have added would have been to work the piston rod in and out slightly a few times to ensure that there are no bubbles remaining on the rebound side of the piston before making the final fill of the upside down damper. The low speed bleed passages on rear dampers are almost always larger than those in front units so they tend to purge more effectively on their own but its always helpful to work the piston a little bit to make sure. Sorry I can't invite you to drop in on Sunday, but I will be just north of Port Severn this weekend. I'd have liked to see one of your stable of cars. We'll try and get together some other time. My BMW fleet is currently all resting in the shop at home (1972 tii, 1987 325 ragtop, 1988 M5) while I ride the GS1150 Suzuki to save fuel and the F150 to haul stuff.

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