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07-27-2006 10:05 PM #1
What's the best garage floor coating?
I'm planning on building a new house soon and want somthing better than plane old concrete floor coloring. I was thinking about dying the concrete (adding a concrete pigment) that will be poured into the garage area. Has anyone done this and if so how well do you like it? I would appreciate any and all suggestions. Thanks!
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07-27-2006 10:53 PM #2Registered Member
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Re: What's the best garage floor coating?
That looks better than plain old cement, but when you spill oil or some other automotive liquid on it, it will stain the cement.
2 coats of epoxy will be the easiest thing to wipe up anything you spill on your new floor.
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07-29-2006 03:16 PM #3
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07-30-2006 12:51 PM #4
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07-30-2006 05:44 PM #5
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07-30-2006 10:01 PM #6
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07-31-2006 08:16 AM #7Registered Member
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Re: Haven't had any chipping problems yet (m)
I used Rust-Oleum Epoxy Shield. My floor was new too, you have to wait for at least 30 days for the cement to cure. The kit comes with an etch powder you mix with water to clean the floor before you put the epoxy on. After the etch/cleaning you need to wait until the floor is completely dry. I used a dehumidifier, 2 fans, and A/C in the garage window to speed up the drying time, one day for me, but this was in October when the humidity wasn't that high.
The epoxy takes ~16-20 hours to dry before you can walk on it, but 7 days before you can drive the car on.
If you haven't looked at my earlier post and garage pics, here it is.
http://forums.roadfly.com/forums/garage/7784074-1.html
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08-01-2006 10:27 PM #8
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08-01-2006 11:06 PM #9
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08-02-2006 01:59 PM #10
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08-02-2006 09:45 PM #11
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08-05-2006 12:30 PM #12
Rustoleum solvent based clear coat is nice
I did the rustoluem 2 part water based, threw flakes all over the place and then applied the 2 part solvent based clear coat. If my floor were super smooth, I would have maybe attempted the concrete stain but I actually need the flakes to hide the imperfections which it does.
Mind you, I only park the motorcycle in the garage, but it still looks pretty good after 3-4 months.
One thing you should do is stay away from 1 part epoxy paints.
I do get some light scratching in the clearcoat and am trying to figure out the best way of buffing that out. I was dragging a 6 gallong container filled with water, so that's about 50 lbs and I think it had some grit stuck under it. Other then that, it's been pretty durable with spills and stain. I'll post a few pictures soon. I'll post the right after painting picture and the current picture.
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08-07-2006 09:38 AM #13
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08-07-2006 10:04 AM #14
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08-07-2006 10:40 AM #15
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09-22-2006 08:30 AM #16Registered Member
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Re: What's the best garage floor coating?
My first 'go around' with epoxy garage paint was a DISASTER. I won't name the brand, but it was purchased locally at a large HW chain. The epoxy blistered, water penetrated & bubbled up the paint, it chipped easy, etc... Removing the floor was a huge PITA, and a big mess.
Fast forward 2 years. After research, and seeing floor wear from a few friends I decided on 'U-Coat-It', which is a commercial grade epoxy system for your garage floor. It's $$$, but I haven't had a SINGLE problem. No blistering, chipping, paint lifting AT ALL. It is a fantastic and durable floor covering.
I hope this helps.John Miller :: Crown Detailing :: Wilmington, DE
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09-25-2006 08:51 AM #17Registered Member
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U-Coat-It may be a better product,, looks like (m)
the problems you had were related to the floor not being clean enough or not dry enough before you applied the epoxy.
U-Coat-It's web site says you don't need to wait until the floor is completely dry or wait 7 days before you can drive on it, that's a big plus over what I used. My floor is still fine, no blistering, bubbles, or lifting anywhere.
I'm going to help a friend do his floor in a few weeks, we'll have to check into what you used so he won't have to leave his cars outside for a week. Thanks for the info.
U-Coat-It info
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02-07-2007 04:54 PM #18
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02-07-2007 05:09 PM #19
Just Did U Coat It
Have a 5 year old pretty decent 3 car garage floor. Bought a UCI double pack\e, two bottles of Fleck and AF Gloss sealer. Also bought U patch and cleaning kit. Soaked w/ water and cleaned "slick" areas from tire shiners and oil with UCI degreaser. Washed a second time then rinsed. Etched with 4/1 water/muriatic acid. Rinsed. Etched a 2nd time (I don't want to ever have to do this over!!! and the secret is surface preparation) Rinsed. Appplied base coat with the bonding solution. Let dry 8 hours then patched small cracks and pock marks. Made mistake of putting anti skid aluminum sand on half and it was a pain to smooth the crack repair material. Did't put the sand on second half until 2nd coat. Did second coat (color coat and broadcast two bottles of flecks. Dried 24 hours and then gloss coated. Dry to the touch in 10 hours but not driving on yet. Will probably wait 3 or 4 days. Love the texture and the finish so far. Looks like a quality produut. Kits came with EVERYTHING except acid. Includes stir sticks, edging brushes, safety glasses, mini tarp to work on etc. Not cheap, just over $600 for all materials and shipping. I think it was worth it. Originally was going to use race deck but decided to try this first due to $2K cost on race deck. Now I like this better. I highly recommend the product but just like in painting a car, preparation is everything. My garage was about 540 sq feet and kit said it would cover 576 sq feet. I used it all except for a bit of the clear. The color coats are water based and the clear is solvent based.
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07-20-2007 03:08 PM #20
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