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  1. #1
    rohan
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    stiff gearbox

    Hi all,

    on my 116k miles m635 the gearbox is very awkward when cold. Second is especially bad and in the winter i would pull out of the house and go 1st to third to avoid the difficulty!

    Once warmed up she is ok but still rather cumbersome, a lady driver would not be happy. Is there a fluid change that helps this?

    Regards,

    Rohan


  2. #2
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    Re: stiff gearbox

    Mine does the same at 260k miles. It's just the way it is with manual transmissions. Even new ones shift stiff when cold. You and your counter part need to get in the habit of waiting til the car warms a bit or shift through a couple of gears when parked to get things rolling inside your gear box.

    Philo.
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  3. #3
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    Re: stiff gearbox

    Redline MTL sythetic manual transmission fluid may free things up a little.

  4. #4
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    Addendum: Redline WILL help a lot, but warm up too


    '87 <b>528e</b> "is" 214.5k
    '88 <b>M5</b> 193k (Head removed, ready for reassembly)
    Dinan gen.1
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  5. #5
    rohan
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    Re: stiff gearbox

    My counterpart?!

    Yeah but most people recommend driving a car immediately rather than letting it warm up? I thought it made sense to let them warm up at least a bit first.

    Will try this tomorrow plus the shifting a few times first.

    Might well give the redline a go too.

    Thanks for the help as usual guys.

    Regards,

    Rohan

  6. #6
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    Not MTL

    Do not use Redline MTL in Getrag 280. Use Redline D4 ATF. The Getrag 280 uses Dexron.

  7. #7
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    Good lookin' out!


    '87 <b>528e</b> "is" 214.5k
    '88 <b>M5</b> 193k (Head removed, ready for reassembly)
    Dinan gen.1
    OEM Front & Rear Fuzz-buster

  8. #8
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    Here's my two cents:

    You have a high-performance engine & car. To imagine that the engineers decided the people driving this car were in such a hurry to go that they would skip "warming up" for a short 10-30 sec is a reach for me. I always let my idle shift, telling me that the O2s is warm and the system is closed-loop before pulling away. As for stiff gearboxes in the morning, you might try warming for a full minute in neutral with the clutch released so the internals of the trans can move. I don't usually like to warm up a car for very long under normal circumstances, but I definitely do frown on the folks I see in parking lots that have their cars in motion before the starter is even done spinning.

    That said, my 528e has MTL in it (not the ATF that our 280 requires) and I can attest to the night and day nature of the shift-ease. The second fill of Redline was even more dramaticly improved than the first! I can't say anything for the difference when using their ATF, but they've proven themselves to me over the typical OTC oils.

    Finally, don't forget that the 280 has a well-known problem with first and second gear synchros wearing out.


    '87 <b>528e</b> "is" 214.5k
    '88 <b>M5</b> 193k (Head removed, ready for reassembly)
    Dinan gen.1
    OEM Front & Rear Fuzz-buster

  9. #9
    Bruce
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    Another option - this one is guaranteed

    The reason the lever is still to move into second gear is that the synchroniser is not getting second gear synchronised to the right speed.
    If the transmission is hard to get into second gear, then you must be relying on the synchroniser to change the shaft speed.
    What you need to do is get the speed of the shafts right so that the synchroniser does less work.

    when you are doing your usual drive play very close attention to the exact rpm that the engine is when you are finally in second gear and let the clutch out. whatever that rpm is, you need to get the input shaft of the trasnmission down to that speed for the gear to engage. ( it would be higher speed in first gear before you shift. )
    As you start the 1-2 shift...
    the input shaft is flying around at the speed of first gear, and the second gear (which is constant meshed) is going much slower. when you depress the clutch .. the shaft is still spinning hard and fast... you move the lever and the friction of the synchroniser rubs agains second gear and tries to slow the shaft down.. the synchroniser ring will never move over to engage second gear until the shaft is going the right speed.

    What you can do is release the clutch (and gas pedal) , pull the lever to neutral, and watch the enging RPM fall. when you see the right engine RPM for second gear, let the clutch out for a very split second...and that will force the input shaft to the right speed... then clutch in and the lever should fall easily into second gear...

    I wish everyone with a stick shift car would spend a few hours with a disassembled transmission so they knwo what is going on inside when they move the shift lever. it is so simple and if you know what you are actually doing when you are forcing the lever, you would learn that it is kinda useless to force it..

    Bruce

  10. #10
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    ...not to mention exacerbating the problem


    '87 <b>528e</b> "is" 214.5k
    '88 <b>M5</b> 193k (Head removed, ready for reassembly)
    Dinan gen.1
    OEM Front & Rear Fuzz-buster

  11. #11
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    Dam..., I just put MTL in two days ago.

    So what will happen if I keep it in there and not change to ATF..., I plan on changing it tomorrow but just curious.

    Philo.
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  12. #12
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    Dunno, but your tranny might turn into a pumpkin


    '87 <b>528e</b> "is" 214.5k
    '88 <b>M5</b> 193k (Head removed, ready for reassembly)
    Dinan gen.1
    OEM Front & Rear Fuzz-buster

  13. #13
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    I called Redline... >

    No problem with MTL other than stiffer shifts. Funny.., after I put the MTL in I drove the car and thought... "wow.., this thing shifts nice !" I guess perception is 90% of the problem or cure.

    Will put Redline D4 and be done with it.

    Philo
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    With New Front Spoiler :)

  14. #14
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    Good to know... I wouldn't want a pumpkin either


    '87 <b>528e</b> "is" 214.5k
    '88 <b>M5</b> 193k (Head removed, ready for reassembly)
    Dinan gen.1
    OEM Front & Rear Fuzz-buster

  15. #15
    THD
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    MTL is a NO NO!

    I don't care what Redline says, In my opinion, MTL is not the correct lube for the US spec e28 M5 transmission. Nor would I use anything other than plain old (NON-synthetic) ATF in it. It's all about giving the syncro's enough friction to do their jobs and synthetic lube doesn't have the right friction modifiers... it's too slippery.

  16. #16
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    Re: I called Redline... >

    Seems like Redline MTL isn't a popular choice. I put it in on the recommendation of respected local BMW shop and noticed an immediate improvement in shifting ease. 1st to 2nd is still a little stiff but much better than before. Have you switched to Redline D4 yet? Result?

  17. #17
    M5 Jeff
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    TOO MUCH VIAGRA!!!!!!!!

    YUP THATS IT FOR SURE!

  18. #18
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    Results with Mobil One ATF

    On the last fill, I switched to Mobil One ATF and noticed a slight improvement in synchro performance on my 110k miles 280, especially in the 2-3 shift.

    Haven't tried the Redline ATF, however.Scottie Sharpe
    Provider of Mass Air Flow Conversion Kits for BMWs
    www.scottiesharpe.com/store

    88 Dinan-badged M5, M88 motor with BMWTurboPerformance.com mass air flow conversion, Laptop Dynamic Tuning, 02 Sensor feedback, Dinan Stage 4 suspention, Dinan 17x9.5 3pc wheels, 255/40 Conti Sport X 4, e34 rear brakes, B&B Stainless steel Exhaust, F&R LaDue stainless steel strut bars.
    91 318iC
    68 2002 Ireland coil overs, e12 brakes, Mikuni 40s, Stahl, Hoosiers
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    Do you BMWwikiwiki.com ??


  19. #19
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    Not necessarily

    I've had Mobil 1 synthetic ATF in my transmission for around 10 years now without a problem. Syncros still work well at 175k, none of the 2nd gear problems that I've heard about.

    Then again, the American wife and I are both pretty easy on our cars. Still have the original clutch too.

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