Radiant Barrier for my house.

**BeemCi** · 06-02-2007 11:33 PM

Has anyone installed a radiant barrier in their attic? I live in Texas where the heat can be brutal. I had several over $800 electric bills last Summer and would NOT like to get those again. I recently had my roof re-shingled and had them install 2 turbines to replace those passive vents. I've already noticed a difference with those, but would like to do more.

would appreciate any 'words of wisdom' from those that have had the radiant barriers installed.

**lezonebay** · 06-03-2007 12:16 AM

what is it that you installed ? cost ? hardness to install ? In FL we got 11 months heat, here in SC we have 5-6 months but still a good idea is a good idea. If I can reduce the bill and the time the ac runs that works for me. I will double the insulation in the attick for the winter to reduce the amount of heat loss through the roof. Heat rises and therefore the biggest loss is at the roof area. I measured the thickness and it is barely meets the code. I will do some investigation as I can not actually increase the thickness I need better insulation then a spread out foamy thingy. layers of insulation stuff would probably do more then this foamy stuff spread out... it is not the usual pink panther, you won't get itchy if you touch it and not as harmful for the lungs either.

**TX_Greg** · 06-06-2007 10:12 PM

I don't have radiant barriers but went thru the same change from passive vents to turbines several years ago. You'll notice a big diff with just those. And...I think our weather has changed to summer this week. The heat is on!!

**Faisal_in_Laurel** · 06-06-2007 11:58 PM

Sorry dude. Couldn't help it.<html>
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**Montanamike** · 06-07-2007 09:21 AM

Bill and Lazlo, Been a custom builder for 30 years. Have built in the Californis sun...the East cost humidity..the high country where there is no barrier from the sun.

The radient barriers are great as long as they are installed correctly. When people live in sun country as you guys do, an attic can reach temps near 200 degrees. The only downfall to radient barriers is that it will increase the amount of heat reflected onto the back of the roof sheathing and the underside of the roofing. So corect power venting as you installed is essential to the longevity of your new roof!!

Having enough insulation is what I would do first. R-42 minimum. Be careful to pay attention to vapor barriers. ONLY ONE!!! Dont want to be creating a mold situation with two vapor barriers.

Making sure that your cooling system is running at peak and is a modern unit will also help keep your bills lower in the long run. An old A/C unti can cost you thousands each year!!

**rogbmw** · 06-07-2007 04:13 PM

a HUGE difference. Along with a couple of other energy saving features, our electric bill is almost half or our neighbor's! Both houses have been built within the last 4 years.
Roger W
1994 850CSi #57

**BeemCi** · 06-07-2007 09:07 PM

Thanks Mike..

I know I need to build up more insulation as I only have the minimum they installed when the house was built (hence the $800 electric bills last year). Have you any experience with the 'spray on' radiant barrier versus the foil 'tacked on' barrier? We do have a mold problem down here which all the insurance companies now exclude on the homeowner's policies. The premiums didn't change of course.

I have noticed that the roof turbines make a difference already, but would like to do more. Electric bills cut into my 8 fund.. hehe.

BMW Oktoberfest is in Ft Worth this year and I'd really like to go.

Thanks for all the info..

**BeemCi** · 06-07-2007 09:08 PM

No worries.. If I can get my electric bill down to a reasonable amount, I'd look at going TT on my 8.

**BeemCi** · 06-07-2007 09:11 PM

Thanks Greg..

I have noticed a difference already with the turbines. Still want to see if I can do more to reduce my electric bill.. That money goes directly into my 8 fund.

**Montanamike** · 06-07-2007 11:03 PM

what I would suggest is to add enough blown in insulation to bring it up to an R-42. Blown cellulos is a great way to do it yourself and the machines are sometimes loaned out for free if you buy the materials from the lumber yard. check around if this is something you might want to do. Remember to wear a dust mask while installing.

I am not personally familiar with the sprayed on radient barrier. I have only used the old staple on to the bottom of the rafter method. SO I cant help you there.

ALL insurance companies are excluding mold in their policies now a days. AND If you have bought or sold any real estate lately there is a mold disclosure form that plainly states that ALL houses have mold of some kind....so buyer beware. This just takes the liability off of the seller and the Realtor.

Good Luck and feel free to ask any questions you might have!!

Mike

**lezonebay** · 06-08-2007 03:07 AM

my house is new. 8 months old. the attic insulation is not the pink panther anymore but a gravel looking foam type of stuff. sorry I can not describe it any better. The good news is that it is not causes itch the bad news is this is sprayed so it is not in sheets. I can only increase it to the level of the beams otherwise they will just float out.
The attic has only passive vents no turbines. I will definietly get those. I need at least 2 as there is 2 different roof section !
do I need to get power for those or they just run off of the heat ?

**Montanamike** · 06-08-2007 07:43 AM

HI Laszlo, A radient barrier is a material stapled or sprayed to the under side of the roof rafters to reflect the heat from the sun back up before it has a chance to heat the house.
Sounds like you have a blown in cellulous insulation in your house...thats good but you can add more to completly cover everything in the attic...it wont hurt anything to be deeper than the framing as long as there is venting at the soffits and good venting at the ridge.
Tip about venting a roof... You can add the turbines (which are powered by the heat escaping - Convection) But to make this work correctly you must have adaquate soffit vents to allow correct air flow. Same with a car....you cant get more out than you let in the other side!!!

**BeemCi** · 06-09-2007 08:21 PM

I agree with MontanaMike about the turbines. I had the convection ones installed. I spoke with my roofer about the electric ones and he said you have to get an electrician to run wiring and hook it all up. If you live in a city like mine, there would be the additional cost and pain of a city inspector (I had to have my new water heater inspected). He also stated when the motor burns out you have to replace it and there is the electrical cost to run it. Convection turbines are free. My neighbor has an electric one and has had no problems. Hope that helps.

Firelight007 · 06-29-2007 01:32 AM

Radiant barrier is a proven method for reducing your energy consumption. There are also various different ways to save on electricity costs as well. Skylights, Attic Fans, Load Controllers and etc. for more information contact me via e-mail and I can educate you on the various methods and products you can use in an effort to creating a more comfortable home.

www.digitalpsychos.com

**lezonebay** · 07-05-2007 12:11 AM

do I just need to cut a large hole in a roof, install the turbine, make sure it is waterproof and done ? where would you install it ? As high as you can get or mid section ?

is a turbine like this {see ebay link} http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=180135790825&fromMakeT rack=true&ssPageName=VIP:watchlink:middle:us

will do the job ? how many do I need on a approximately 1600sq ft roof section ? 2 would be enough or as many as roof tops I have ? ( I have 3) I mean roof tops like 3 domes or 3 sections... sorry my "building department" Vocabulary is limited :-)

I have measured the roof insulation and it is R26 only. I will try and add some but that is mostly for the winter right ? in a summer we need the ventillation not the insulation. also will the turbine cause heat loss in a winter time ? should I cover it for the winter months ?

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