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Thread: SLS hose sprung a leak
07-05-2007 12:09 AM #1
SLS hose sprung a leak
I've decided to get ride of my semi functioning SLS. I have been thru archives for hours and did not find any post that helped, mostly vague info. I have new Bilstein rear shocks in storage. Will I be able to use my stock SLS springs w/ different perches? I have read I will need new springs (H&R etc,)and new perches to get this right. Can someone please share more detailed info or direct me to a good post? Maybe one that was as detailed as my Euro Headling wiring post would be nice????? Other wise I think I will just replace the expensive hose for now.
07-05-2007 07:22 AM #2
07-05-2007 04:05 PM #3
- thomaston, GA, United StatesMember No: 33285
- Join Date
- Apr 2002
- Rep Power
07-05-2007 09:46 PM #4
07-05-2007 10:33 PM #5
Re: Thanks everyone
I was able to get some good info from my local parts wholesaler. I ordered all the parts. I really liked my SLS until I have heard how it can nickle and dime you. As you may know I have 234,000+ original miles on her and after rebuild I'm a little broke. SLS stopped adjusting automatically years ago. I was able to manually adjust it by grounding two contact points on the pump. Yesterday after noticing it was about an inch too high I tried to adjust it but would only adjust up not down. That's when the hose blew. SO pump works great but the assorted switches and/or electronics failed. I saw the pump listing for $2,365.00 and a switch for $300.00 etc. on OEM.com. I figured it's best to just ditch the system before I become homeless. I know it's subjective but most say their cars handle better w/ out SLS. I think it's because their shocks were so worn, any change would have improved the ride. I was able to get Bilstein/Eibach w/ elimination kit for about $625.00 from my wholesaler today. Thanks for offer of assistance.
07-06-2007 06:11 AM #6
it is really too bad that the missing element
I doubt that you needed a 2000 dollar pump.
there are plenty of used ones around, and most likely there was either dirt in the system or the down solenoid is pooched...
As far as I know there are NO mechanics out there that can trouble shoot this system beyond pump, hose, accumulator, shock and switch.
anyway I am not trying to sway your decision... just hope the next guy is willing to dig into it and keep it working cheaply..
I will help.
07-09-2007 01:27 AM #7
Re: patience & cash
Thanks Bruce, I think the missing element with me is really patience and cash! The car sat for two years (pure agony)and I really want to enjoy it for he summner at least before I start replacing the other parts I couldn't replace because the engine rebuild drained my funds! I drive the beast everyday and my face hurts from my evil grin! My mechanic stocks all the parts and claims he has fixed many SLS systems but at a hefty hourly rate! I have decided to save the whole system, espcially the pump because it works just fine, and put it in the corner of the garage. Maybe next year when I have the patience and $$ I will fix whats broken and put it back in the car. I got the Bilsteins/springs for almost nothing so I will try it. I will know after just a few blocks if I preffer it over the elegant SLS.
07-25-2007 05:43 PM #8
- Tenino, WA, United StatesMember No: 107939
- Join Date
- May 2004
- Rep Power
I have noticed in the last month or so as I sit at a traffic light that the rear of the car drops down in the rearview mirror -
I would not have noticed except seeing the image in the mirror moving catches my eye -
In the words of "If cartoon animals drove cars, tihs one gets an M5"
What's up doc?
is this a sympton of a pending failure or just normal aging ?
07-25-2007 07:21 PM #9
there should be no movement with brake on...
the sls will rise or fall to the set point, but all movement is blocked when the car is moving or when the brakes are on. the only time it should adjust is when you are sitting still and brakes off.
it is possible that rolling slowly the system can adjust but there is a mercury motion switch inside the sls height sensor.
maybe when you drive from a cold start, the oil and the nitrogen in the "bomb" are warming up and that expands the Nitrogen, so when you finally come to a stop the car is a little higher than when you started out. the system will lower the car back down to the set height, and it should not pump back up again.
when the car cools down the N2 will contract and the car will lower a little. so when you re-start it might go up a little.
let me know if that helps...
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