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  1. #1
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    CEL light on... the elusive P1188 and P1189 myster

    So I've been dealing with the P1188 and P1189 codes for about 3 years now and have not been able to pass an emissions test. The most recent tag on my license plate is from 2006!

    Anyhow, long story short:

    1. Indy BMW mech 1 could not fix it after $2500 worth of parts and labor.
    2. Crevier BMW service department could not find the problem after having my car for more than 3 weeks and $1100 (included changing accessory belts and water pump, reflashing DME, new intake boot and CCV).
    3. Certified Smog repair shop could not find the problem after $600 in repairs.
    4. Indy BMW mech 2 quoted $3000 with a laundry list of parts that included a new DME, engine wiring harness, new MAF, and some other stuff.

    After spending over $4200 I was not anxious to spend another $3000 with the 2nd indy mech so now I've decided to dive into this thing and fix it myself.

    I bought an OBDII scanner and have been searching the forums for info on these codes. The Actron scanner that I have has the ability to look at the freeze data that is stored when the error code is set off. The info below shows the data:

    P1188
    RPM: 1675
    Load Value: 69.4%
    Coolant Temp: 194*F
    Short Term Fuel Trim 1: -20.2%
    Long Term Fuel Trim 1: -8.0%
    Short Term Fuel Trim 2: -11.8%
    Long Term Fuel Trim 2: -6.3%
    Short Term Fuel Trim 3: -100.6%
    Long Term Fuel Trim 3: -100.6%
    Short Term Fuel Trim 4: -100.6.%
    Long Term Fuel Trim 4: -100.6%
    Vehicle Speed: 16 MPH
    Fuel System 1: Closed
    Fuel System 2: Closed

    A note about the STFT/LTFT values for 3 and 4: I think the reason they are so high is because I had a leaky injector (stuck open) and the system was trying to compensate for the extremely rich condition.

    My interpretation of the data is that I'm running rich and the DME is trying to compensate, am I reading it right? I believe that the CEL and DTC were set off by the STFT1 exceding -20%, can anyone confirm that? If I am correct then I believe that I can rule out an intake leak which would cause a lean condition.

    What I'm planning to do is clean or replace the MAF. Hopefully a good cleaning will clear up the codes. Since the problem is with Bank 1 and Bank 2, I am assuming that the problem is with something in common with both banks, i.e. the MAF.

    I will most likely have to change out the pre-cat O2 sensors since I don't know how old they are, but the MAF cleaning is first on the list. I'm trying not to spend too much more money on this than I have to. I'm also going to look into the injectors, FPR, fuel filter and pump to try to get to the bottom of why I'm running rich.

    Also, can anyone tell me why there are 4 sets of STFT/LTFT values? Do they have to do with fuel trim at idle vs. under load vs. WOT?

    Any help would be much appreciated!!!!!!!!Anaheim Hills, CA
    '99 528i Sport, Black/black


  2. #2
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    Yes | No

    How many miles on the odometer? For the $4200 (m)

    that you already spent, I'm surprised that none of these places would have changed the O2's and MAF already.
    It would also be helpful to know what parts have already been replaced.
    Was the fuel pressure ever checked...good thing to know, fuel regulator could be bad.
    How do the plugs look, are any black?
    How does the engine run now, is it smooth or ruff?
    It does look like you are running rich. Before you throw more $$ at the problem try this.
    Warm the engine up to operating temp and then clear all the codes.
    Next pull the small vac line off the intake manifold, the one that supplies vacuum for the secondary air pump circuit. This should make the engine run leaner than it is now.
    Take the car for a ride and see what the STFT numbers are then.


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  3. #3
    william735i
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    Yes | No

    I am so in the wrong business!!! Can you really

    classify yourself as a mechanic if you want to change out the engine wiring harness and DME without trying the other "COMMON" causes first? The only way I can see him stating this "laundry list" is if he included, "I think it is the MAF, but it could be the DME, and there is a .00001% chance it is the engine harness!"

    I personally suspect the injectors... I had a similar prob in my E34 535i... I happen to have a fuel rail from my old T-bird that I scrap'd... I pulled the Ford 19lb injectors from the fuel rail and replaced the BMW 14 or what ever pound units with the Ford units... No more issues... To confirm my theroy, I'd pull the plugs, like Jim stated - are they black? Tap on the top of the MAF, if the idle stumbles, that is very likely your cause...

    You could have had a complete used engine (that you'd have to install) for the amount you have invested thus far...

    Keep us posted... If you are in the Augusta Ga area, bring it over!!!!! Well figure it out!!!

    Cheers!!

  4. #4
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    Re: CEL light on... the elusive P1188 and P1189 myster

    Here's my recent (yesterday) incident with the P1188 & P1189 codes:

    Started it in the morning, and noticed the startup idle wasn't the usual. This time it revved higher than normal, and then went into a stumble @ under 1K. Drove to work OK. On the drive home CEL came on, noticed it had less power than normal.

    Got home, read the codes - P1188 & P1189 (twice for each). Popped the hood. Openned the oil filler cap to dry out the condensation as I usually do for short drives in colder weather, and noticed it was dry. This was not right. Checked the oil, and noticed that the oil level on the dipstick was an inch over the max, as if there was positive pressure in the crankcase.

    This moring, started it up, and got huge plume of smoke out of the exhaust.

    When I got to work, I called and ordered a CVV and the accompanying hoses and grommet.

    And, of course, when I came home this evening, it ran great, no smoke on start-up, and all wet under the oil filler cap. I'm figuring one of the tubes running to/from the CVV was clogged. I'll be replacing the CVV this weekend (if it's not too cold - garage isn't heated)

    Hope this gives you some insight. Maybe they replaced your CVV but not the clogged tubing, which in turn fried the new CVV.

    Let us know how this works out for you.
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  5. #5
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    Re: CEL light on... the elusive P1188 and P1189 myster

    i know this is an old post but I just was curious if you ever cleared the codes and what was it you did.

    I'm getting the same P1188 and P1189 codes on my '00 528i with similar -100.6% trim levels you listed. Pre-cat O2 sensors, CCV and hoses replaced and MAF cleaned.

    Any help is greatly appreciated.


  6. #6
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    I doubt you will get an answer from him (m)

    He never replied to any of the posts and his screen name doesn't ring a bell.
    Have you replaced your MAF, looked for air leaks, checked plugs, checked fuel pressure? If you disconnect the MAF and drive the car what do the fuel trims read?
    What tool are you using for reading codes?

  7. #7
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    Re: I doubt you will get an answer from him (m)

    Thanks for the heads up

    The car is at 138K. Here's a list of what I've done (in chrono order):

    -Spark plugs were replaced some 30k miles ago (2 years ago).
    -Fuel filter changed some 12k miles ago (a year ago).
    -Did a valve cover gasket replacement 1.5 months ago and ever since then codes have popped up. Made sure the ground straps were connected, coils were appropriately mated with sparks.
    -Replaced the pre-cat O2 sensors thinking they were faulty. Reset OBD and codes still popped up.
    -Replaced fuel tank breather valve, thinking it was faulty and letting more vapor than necessary. Reset OBD and codes still popped up.
    -Sprayed carb cleaner all over and has not effect on the RPM
    -Changed CCV and its 4 associated hoses after reading similar posts on P1188 and P1189 codes.
    -Have not replaced the MAF, just cleaned it using MAF cleaner recently.
    -Did a BG engine flush job to it which smoked the entire mechanic shop and engine doesn't surge as much as before.
    -Codes still pop up.
    -Panic as my emissions and inspection are due in Jan '11.
    -Eat PB&J sandwiches for lunch since I'm nearly broke.

    As for fuel pressure I'm not quite sure how to check. any suggestions?
    Also I retrieved the codes and trim levels from the code reader at the indy mech shop. Don't recall what the tool name was.

    If I disconnect the MAF and read the trims, what should I expect the trims to read?

    THanks!

  8. #8
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    Re: I doubt you will get an answer from him (m)

    I keyed in on your saying "Did a valve cover gasket replacement 1.5 months ago and ever since then codes have popped up."

    Did you remove and re-install the valve cover & gasket? You may have a breach in the valve cover seal (kinked, mis-aligned, or dented gasket). Have you check the crankcase for a vacuum? With the engine running, remove the oil filler cap and place your palm over the opening. You should feel the vaccum pulling.
    Ed CT
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  9. #9
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    Re: I doubt you will get an answer from him (m)

    There is vacuum at the oil filler cap, more now since the CCV replacement...as to how much there should be I'm not sure how to tell.

    There are no signs of oil leaking nor oil burning, but I suppose that does not mean it's airtight.

  10. #10
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    Vac should be slight 3 to 5" water column






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  11. #11
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    Yes | No

    Measured the DC voltage of the O2 sensors

    while the car was running using a friend's obdII scanner with live data.

    The sensor 2s (post-cat) were consistently at 0.415 Volts, while the sensor 1s (pre-cat) were at a low 0.045 volts (lean) during idle. Only when gas is added would the pre-cats' ramp up to the same order of magnitude as 0.45 volts reaching as high as 0.8 volts with an eventual ramp-down back to 0.045 volts as the engine reached idle.

    We checked the connections to the DME module to ensure proper contact but the condition described above was again observed.

    Vacuum at the oil filler cap was at 0.15 psi which is within the 3" to 5" water column.

    so maybe defective pre-cat sensors (even though they were new Bosch OEMs)? <-- the fact that the pre-cat sensors does fluctuate in voltage as a function of RPM means that they are fine, is this safe to assume?

    or defective/clogged fuel injector(s)?

    or am I dealing with bigger problems such as a DME gone bad?

    or intake manifold gaskets leaky?

    thanks in advanced!

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