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03-25-2008 08:13 PM #1
Koni sport install experience and questions
I installed front and rear Koni sport adjustables over the weekend.
I have 68K now on the car, and when I removed the original shocks and stuts they were nearly dead, with little to no rebound left in them.
Wow! It's really cool to take 5 minutes and crank on the top of the shocks / struts to go from a soft ride to a firm ride. I went with the special top adjustable TC Kline rear koni sport shocks. Very accessable with the convertible and worth the extra money to not have to remove rear shock to adjust.
I have a couple of questions for those who have installed these before:
1. The rear shock shaft is a larger diameter than the original, and the overall length of the original extended shock is longer. I ended up going with the foam rubber "rebound/buffer" and protection tube included with the Koni's, instead of the stock setup. The stock rebound buffer is about 3 inches longer, should I have used the stock setup instead? I thought at the time since the koni shock is overall shorter, the shorter rebound buffer should be used, but once the car is on the ground that obviously doesn't make a difference. Comments on using the stock rebound setup? I might take them back out to replace with stock buffer setup.
2. The top of the front strut is slightly inaccessable once installed. I was able to adust the koni's with needle nose pliers, but now I think I'll cut a small 1/4" cresent shape out of the strut reinforcement plate (not the tower) that's in the way to allow the Koni tool to fit in. Anyone have other tips on this?
3. During strut install, how do folks torque the top strut nut with the shaft twisting? I released some spring pressure and that held it pretty well. I couldn't use the BMW nut, because it wouldn't go past the top nutlock. I used the lock washer and nut supplied with the Koni's since I could at least screw the nut all the way down and get the lock washer to close. I was figuring on final torque in the car, but that nut is not fully accessable as noted above. I think its fine, but just wondering if anyone has any tricks for this.
Overall the procedure is pretty straight forward. I also took the opportunity to change sway bar bushings and links, and fix the power steering hose leak at the tank and flush/replace the fluid. I finished at 11 pm Sunday night, bummer working outside at night needing the car to take the kids to school the next morning! Feels great now though! Buggy
'99 M3 Convertible
'67 2000 CS
03-25-2008 08:44 PM #2
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you can try rubber band wrenches for 3
03-25-2008 10:07 PM #3
Mark, that is strange regarding the accessibility
of the front struts. Did you do them one at a time or together? If you did them together, there may be a possibility that you swapped strut mounts inadvertantly. 95 doesn't differentiate between left and right, but 96 - 99 had left and right mounts...If you swapped them, I think they will still bolt up, but the geometry will be wrong.
Hope not though... Best Regards, Mike
03-26-2008 01:00 PM #4
03-26-2008 04:36 PM #5
03-27-2008 02:32 AM #6
03-27-2008 02:38 AM #7
fat fingers, anyway...
the link in the previous post does work to show where my strut top ended up. As can see, just a slight removal of the reinforcement plate will allow the Koni tool to seat. I assume the location is the same as other's M3's. This is a convertible, so mabey that has something to do with it.
Thanks for your comments!
Mabey this works, I'm using tinypic for the first time in a while.
'99 M3 Convertible
'67 2000 CS
03-27-2008 08:10 PM #8
Wow, that's alot of caster you've got there...
I just measured my 95 coupe...I have a full 3/4" from the center of the strut to the inside edge at the back. I reckon its supposed to be that way...it looks as if everything is mounted correctly. I would stick to the needle nose pliers, vice grinding away the tower...
Have fun. Best Regards, Mike
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