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    1983 733I BMW no start

    OK well first we replaced the starter and solenoid and now it turns over but is not getting any spark at the engine or the distributor. The car was running fine until the starter went out. my friend replaced it and told me to replace the coil. Still no spark so we checked the distributor and it looks new just like the spark plug wires. I also don't think i hear the fuel pump engaging. any help would B appreciated


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    Have you checked the main relay? Right firewall.


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    Re: Have you checked the main relay? Right firewall.

    main relay is that the one by the fuse box with 4 wires going into it and by the way how do you check a relay if it's the one that i am talking about i used a prob light and it lit up on 3 of the wires i tried jumping it and no start.

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    Right firewall above the heater water valve, all

    by itself.It output powers the ECU and the fuel pump relay. Look up the wiring diagrams (ETM) on e38.org/e23.

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    aj
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    Re: Right firewall above the heater water valve, all

    ok I have power on both sides of the coil but no spark looking for main relay. Don't have the book it's on the way. thanks for the page

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    The main relay powers the ECU and turns on the

    fuel pump relay coil. Go to e38.org site and then e23 section and go down the left side of the page to find the ETMs.

  7. #7
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    83 733i

    Quote Originally Posted by ROYinGA View Post
    fuel pump relay coil. Go to e38.org site and then e23 section and go down the left side of the page to find the ETMs.
    i am having the same issue with my bmw 733i i rebualt the motor it cranks but no spark i have a new starter speed sensor crank sensor sill no fire eney ideas?
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    Is the main relay good?? on the right firewall.
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    bmw

    Quote Originally Posted by ROYinGA View Post
    Is the main relay good?? on the right firewall.
    yes i replaced it yesterday still no spark i dont know what else it culd be other thain the motronick computer
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    Have you tried a node tester on the injectors to see if the ECU is passing any signals? Assuming the main relay is powering up the ECU and you are getting nothing then it looks like it may be something there. Maybe bad solder joints ??
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    bmw

    Quote Originally Posted by ROYinGA View Post
    Have you tried a node tester on the injectors to see if the ECU is passing any signals? Assuming the main relay is powering up the ECU and you are getting nothing then it looks like it may be something there. Maybe bad solder joints ??
    no im going to get a node tester iv bin reading thoes e shets the the black wier on the coil goes to the motronic solid state it tells the coil when to fire so i thinking its in the motronic culd be a resistor transistor capasiter ?
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    bmw

    Quote Originally Posted by Unregistered View Post
    no im going to get a node tester iv bin reading thoes e shets the the black wier on the coil goes to the motronic solid state it tells the coil when to fire so i thinking its in the motronic culd be a resistor transistor capasiter ?
    my main relay is fine i have power at the plug to the motronics unit just not shure if its getting through the motronics unit
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    Have you checked the 2 reference sensors? You should get 960+- 96 ohms between 2 pins.

    Anthony '84 745' (2)
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    No Start No Joy

    I just brought home someone's nightmare '83 733i no start. I watched it fall on Craigslist from $2400 to $800.

    I have gathered from various people to check the coolant temperature switch - in the thermostat housing. Two dinky wires and the switch itself can fail and will aparently kill the spark. Is it a thermal trip/kill for the engine? Anyone?

    Also, I'm not sure how to "CODE" the OBC (onboard computer) and the anti-theft might be an issue.
    Bad engine ground was tossed out there too.

    What basic tools are needed to sleuth this stuff?
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    The 83 wiring diagrams are located on e38.org/e23. Go to page 116 and you will see the OBC1. There is a lock out code feature on plug C1 pin 14 and 16 which cuts the power from the ignition to the main relay. It can be jumpered. Assuming that the fuel pump and main relays are good you might fine the OBC to be the problem. Carefully check the relays first and check for spark second. Next it may be the OBC. The temp/time switch controls the cold start injector so I wouldn't think it would be a problem. Study those ETM diagrams and do some circuit tracing. Good luck. I don't know where the OBC box is on an e23. It is above the left knee on an e28. Check the location pictures at the end on the ETM.
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    1983 E23 No Start

    ROYinGA, thanks for the reply, I've got some updates...

    1 - the relay on the firewall, in front of the passenger has some sort of high energy constant drain. It arcs when I pull it out, and energises when I put it in (whith the key out of the ignition). It gets super hot, until the battery is dead...
    2- I relocated the ground to the intake manifold
    3- cleaned metal shavings off the transmision bell housing sensors
    4- programmed the OBC, I think, but will follow your instructions next...
    5- cleaned the sensor contacts at the thermostat area

    Next-
    OBC By-pass
    Ohm meter test of all sensors...
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    You must have a short in some of the wiring circuits to the main relay. Get your meter and do some tracing.
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    have 733i also,. i have spark to coil and not to distubter ,how do i get spark to distubter
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    Quote Originally Posted by ROYinGA View Post
    You must have a short in some of the wiring circuits to the main relay. Get your meter and do some tracing.
    is there anything at fuse box that would stop spark from going to coil
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    Quote Originally Posted by ROYinGA View Post
    You must have a short in some of the wiring circuits to the main relay. Get your meter and do some tracing.
    looking at main relay and need to know what the brown wire goes to ,any clues
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