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  1. #1
    Brian 328is
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    Idle control valve, need resistance specs

    I have a '96 328is with an M52 engine.

    Car was idling rough. All research pointed to the idle control valve. I removed it from the engine today.

    In the Bentley manual, on page 130-20, the specs for an M50 engine are given as

    Terminals 1 & 2: 20 +/- 5 Ohms
    Terminals 2 & 3: 20 +/- 5 Ohms
    Terminals 1 & 3: 40 +/- 5 Ohms

    My ICV is reading outside these ranges on all three tests, but I have an M52 engine, not M50. I don't know what the specs are for the ICV for the M52 engine, or if they use the same part. The part number on my M52 car is "Bosch 0-280-140-545 1-744-713".

    I called the $tealer for the specs, and they "won't give that information out. Bring the car in." Ahh, whatever.

    Any help?

    Brian


  2. #2
    Brian 328is
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    Idle control valve (ICV), how to remove and clean

    I never got the resistance specs. Just went ahead and cleaned it. Worked great. Other reference material below. I have a '96 328is with an M52 engine.


    No need to remove intake manifold. Remove the mass air flow sensor and rubber intake boot. Remove four screws holding on the throttle body, but leave all hoses and cables attached to the throttle body and push it out of the way. Remove the bolt that holds the dipstick tube in place. You should now be able to see the ICV valve hiding beneath the intake plenum. Remove the 3-pin plug connector from the ICV and take out the 2 bolts that secure the ICV in place. Slip the ICV down and out from the intake plenum, pull off the hose attached to it and remove from engine.

    To clean, fill a 1 cup glass Pyrex measuring cup with 8oz of rubbing alcohol, and place ICV in rubbing alcohol for 30 minutes. Remove from alcohol and allow to completely dry. I also used carb cleaner and a rag to clean out the throttle body.
    Install everything in reverse taking care to ensure all seals are tight.

    Resistance measurements

    Looking at outlet, flow arrow on left
    1-2-3

    1-2 = 10.4 Ohms
    1-3 = 22.1 Ohms
    2-3 = 11.6 Ohms


    Hope this helps,
    Brian



    Other reference material:

    If you are looking at the engine from the left hand side of the car, where the dipstick tube is bolted on at the top is also the support bracket for the ICV. Just before the Air mass Sensor, on the corrugated black hose there is a smaller black hose attached from the underneath, follow this and it also goes to the ICV. You may need to use a torch to see it. It runs parallel with the underside of the manifold. Take it off and wash it in petrol for about 30mins, then shake it and you should hear the valve moving freely, if the valve does not move freely then you need to replace it.

    Giddygod
    On a 92 325is (US Spec) Confirm build date with sticker on door post
    Built pre 09/92 13.41.1.433.626
    Built Post 09/92 13.41.1.744.713

    Behind the rubber boot from the mass air sensor to the intake manifold there is a black hose (Vacuum) going to a 'T' shaped valve (Two hoses and an electrical connector). That's your ICV it's not easy to get at and “320iSe” is absolutely correct you will get it cheaper by ordering the item from a BOSCH dealer with the BOSCH part number than getting the item from BMW. The Bosch part number is a 10 digit number on the item and if you post it here I'll double check it on the ETK to confirm the BMW number for it, Shop around you can expect to pay $200+ for an ICV from BMW.

    Why not remove it and clean it with isopropanol (Rubbing alcohol) cotton buds and lint free cloths, Ensure you are careful as they are a bit delicate. Let it soak in isopropanol first in a jar for 30 minutes to loosen some of the deposits, Ensure it's bone dry before you refit it to the car. The reason these items get some gunked up is they are also connected to the breather hose of the head cylinder and the deposits are gum, varnish and other products off the burning oil. Ensure the electrical connector is spotless too.

    On the idle problem check the throttle position switch too, This is on the rear of the throttle housing held on by two small bolts, Measure this with an Ohm meter for a resistance of exactly 4k. Replace if not getting very close to 4k, Clean up the connector also as it maybe a slight ingress of moisture. Light spray of WD40 won't hurt after reassembly.



    How to remove & clean, version 1

    11/26/07 8:31 AM

    The ICV valve on my 328i wasn't too difficult, but it does take a long time and some flexible hands. The intake plenum DOES NOT need to be removed!

    This is what I did, you may have a different route:

    Remove the filter box, MAF, slip off the rubber intake boot and start taking off the throttle bodies. I disconnected the throttle cables, TPS and brake booster hose, but left all other hoses attached to the throttle body and pushed it out of the way. Remove the bolt that holds the dipstick tube in place. You should now be able to see the ICV valve hiding beneath the intake plenum. Remove the 3-pin plug connector from the ICV and take out the 2 bolts that secure the ICV in place. Slip the ICV down and out from the plenum, pull off the hose attached to it and it's done. Replace ICV. Install everything in reverse taking care to ensure all seals are tight.

    I also used carb cleaner and a rag to clean out the throttle body. I noticed a thin film of gunk coating it after 190,000 miles of use.

    TIP: these ICV's are used on many different BMW models. If you want to save a good chunk of $$$, get a used one from a salvage yard or off Ebay, etc. You're faulty ICV should also trigger a check-engine light, but if you're really unlucky it may not always show up. If you don't get a check-engine light for the ICV, I'd be hard-pressed to believe it actually needs replacing. In that case, check other things first. Mine was not faulty, but all 3 wires were chewed up by a rodent.





    How to remove & clean, version 2

    http://www.***************.com/tech/article-m50idlevalve.asp

    Replacing the idle valve on an M50 is a very difficult job, not complicated, but awkward.

    First, remove the air box by loosening the hose clamp on the bellows, and loosening the two 10 mm nuts holding it to the inner fender, no need to remove the nuts, just loosen them. If you have cruise control, lift the cruise actuator off of the studs and then lift the air box up , remove the 10 mm bolt holding the sensor into the rear of the air box and unplug the Air Flow Meter. Lift the air box up and out of the car.

    Remove the hose clamp from the other end of the bellows, pull the bellows off of the throttle housing and pull the idle hose out from the bellows. Unplug the Throttle Position Sensor , gently remove the ASC cable from the throttle housing, if you have it and remove the 4 10 mm bolts holding the throttle housing onto the intake manifold. There is no need to remove the throttle cables, just move the housing out of the way.

    Next , remove the cap from the oil filter housing, and remove the oil filter. Cover the housing with a clean rag to prevent foreign material entering. You can now reach in under the manifold from the front with one hand and the side with the other. You will need to watch through the small holes in the top of the manifold to see what you are doing.

    In the hole left by the throttle housing, you will see the outlet pipe of the idle valve. This fitting is clipped into the manifold with a very fragile plastic clip. A smart move would be to buy a new fitting when you get the idle valve, it only costs a couple of dollars and makes a lot of sense to replace it at the same time. You can unclip the fitting through the hole in the manifold and pull it away from its mount. Pull the other end of this hose off the idle control valve. Now push the valve toward the firewall until it comes out from the rubber bracket that secures it. It is best not to remove this rubber loop from its mount as it can be very awkward to put it back in. Now that you have the valve loose, you can raise it to gain access to the inlet hose. If there is no clamp on it, you can remove it there and then, if it has a hose clamp on it, you may find it easier to remove the valve and hose together. The hose is the same one you removed from the intake bellows earlier, you can feed it through, under the manifold , as you pull the valve out over the oil filter housing.

    When installing the new valve, take great care to get the hoses on all the way, if the intake hose goes on easily, put a clamp on it. Make especially sure the outlet pipe is correctly attached to the valve, and it's fitting is properly seated in the manifold. A new fitting comes with a new O ring already fitted, you will hear it snap into place when it is located correctly. If this hose comes off, it will cause stalling at idle, even backfiring, and a very rough running engine.

    Feed the inlet house back through under the manifold until the valve is back in place, push it back into the rubber loop , and then put the outlet hose onto the valve. The outlet hose is not very pliable so it is best not to try and force the entire assembly under the manifold. Put it on last.


  3. #3
    Steve G
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    That's a lot of detailed info. Thanks


  4. #4
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    Member No: 14040 zeppelin5 is an unknown quantity at this point zeppelin5's Avatar
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    Idle control valve, got resistance specs - Bosch

    Spoke with Bosch at (800) 521-5462. VERY helpful.

    My resistance measurements were (for Bosch part number 0-280-140-545 1-744-713)

    Looking at outlet, flow arrow on left
    1-2-3

    1-2 = 10.4 Ohms
    1-3 = 22.1 Ohms
    2-3 = 11.6 Ohms


    The Bosch spec is
    1-2 = 12 to 16 Ohms nominal, 10 Ohms min
    1-3 = 24 to 32 Ohms nominal, 20 Ohms min
    2-3 = 12 to 16 Ohms nominal, 10 Ohms min

    So my part is within spec. Drove my car yesterday. Rock solid idle. Yes!

    $tealer wanted $200 for this part. No thanks - clean and reinstall.

    Brian

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    Member No: 179556 vfr700f2 is an unknown quantity at this point vfr700f2's Avatar
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    VERY interesting! The Bentley manual shows the 20/20/40 +/- 2 ohm specs and my valve is around 11/11/22. So according to Bentley, that's bad. But according to your info from Bosch, I don't have to spend $200 on a new one!

    WOW!

    My 97 528 (171K mi, automatic) idle is smooth and the car runs great, but occasionally the idle jumps up to 2500-3000, them back down to normal, then up, down, etc. When listening to this happen from underhood, you hear a woosh right before each rev-up. Working the throttle by hand does not produce a woosh. This is a lot different from what most people describe as an idle problem.

    My valve had some light deposits but was in no way clogged. I didn't shake it right away to see if the innards were free, but as I shook the carb cleaner out of it the innards moved easily.

    I see some cracking in the intake bellows, but nothing that goes thru. Vacuum hoses don't look too bad. MAF and TB are clean. I haven't checked the ccv.

    Any thoughts on my problem? I haven't put the cleaned valve back in 'cuz I thought I needed a new one. I think I can do that tomorrow before work.

    Thanks y'all!!

    kevin
    2002 330CiC - wife's car
    1997 528i - kid's car
    1996 Dodge Ram 2500 - my hotrod diesel
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  6. #6
    Jetxjet
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    Confirmed values on E36 M52 11/96

    After reading this post, I checked my ICV and my resistance values were as shown in the table below. I though I'd post the results to add verification of the data.

    Terminals 1 and 2: 10.5 ohms
    Terminals 2 and 3: 11.5 ohms
    Terminals 1 and 3: 22 ohms

    My vehicle is a '97 328is
    E36 M52 11/96
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