+ Reply to Thread
Results 1 to 8 of 8

Hybrid View

  1. #1
    Registered Member
    Location
    Irvine, CA, United States
    Member No: 25723 jsubbi is an unknown quantity at this point jsubbi's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Posts
    323
    Rep Power
    0


    Yes | No

    Car won't idle - did I damage my ECU?

    I was pulling some fuses trying to troubleshoot a problem and when I tried to restart the car, the car will not idle--it just stalls. I haven't had any problems with my idle control valve to date. Is it possible that I pulled a fuse to the ECU and damaged it? I know, I probably should have disconnected the battery first.

    There are no CEL indications. The car will run if I keep the throttle plate open. I tried to get to the ICV connector to test the ECU signal, but I haven't been able to access it--it's burried under the manifold.

    Help?

  2. #2
    Registered Member
    Location
    Irvine, CA, United States
    Member No: 25723 jsubbi is an unknown quantity at this point jsubbi's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Posts
    323
    Rep Power
    0


    Yes | No

    Quick update

    I disconnected the battery hoping it might "reset" the ECU and then restarted it. It will now idle, but just barely (below 500 rpm?)

    Is this because the ECU need time to recalibrate the idle speed? Or has the ICV decided to stick all of the sudden?

    It's an '98 with 90k miles.

  3. #3
    Registered Member
    Location
    Irvine, CA, United States
    Member No: 25723 jsubbi is an unknown quantity at this point jsubbi's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Posts
    323
    Rep Power
    0


    Yes | No

    Problem resolved

    We'll, oddly the problem seems to have spontaneously resolved itself. I was driving the car over to Chris at Bullet Motorsport in Santa Ana, CA, (not to be confused with Bullet Performance in Costa Mesa) and on the way, the idle speed returned! Go figure.

    I had Chris run diagnostics anyway and he found a fault code for the throttle position sensor, so that may have been the cause. Looks like an easy R&R.

    It was my first time over at Bullet Motorsport and they seem like really good guys. It's always nice to find another good independent nearby.

  4. #4
    Registered Member
    Location
    , , United States
    Member No: 49533 95DayVI is an unknown quantity at this point 95DayVI's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Posts
    16,858
    Rep Power
    0


    Yes | No

    glad it's found... didn't know what to say

    I had imagined tho it would be hard to "break" something that wasn't already nearing a breaking point. It was probably just timing, and not anything you did specifically.

    Supposedly the ICV can be cleaned and replaced._______
    Silicone intake boot
    Silicone rad hoses
    EMP Waterpump
    PWR Radiator
    Eyeball Arm CA mounts
    Sunbelt CAMS w chip for 24# injectors, Euro MAF, Conforti/ITG CAI
    96+ exhaust manifolds
    accessory UDPs
    M roadster lever
    Euro fLoAtErS
    GC RTAB shims, RSMs, T/S Coilover with Koni DA f/SA R & 450#f/550#r Eibach ERS
    All done in my garage

    corkscrew:Laguna Seca

  5. #5
    Registered Member
    Location
    Irvine, CA, United States
    Member No: 25723 jsubbi is an unknown quantity at this point jsubbi's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Posts
    323
    Rep Power
    0


    Yes | No

    another update

    I think I may have solved the intermittent starting issue (my original problem). When Chris at Bullet was running diagnostics, he also found an ignition key ID error (where the EWS/ECU thinks the key doesn't match the car).

    I later spoke to Leigh at the Irvine BMW parts counter about what he thought the issue was, and he thinks the chip in the key is failing and the key need to be replaced. He said they sell way more keys that ignition switches.

    I was able to test this theory this afternoon. Once again, it wouldn't start. I grabbed my other key and it started right up. I'm going test it a few more times just to be sure.

    The best part is a new key is under $100 and I don't have to tear apart the car. :-)

  6. #6
    Registered Member
    Location
    , , United States
    Member No: 49533 95DayVI is an unknown quantity at this point 95DayVI's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Posts
    16,858
    Rep Power
    0


    Yes | No

    or "break" stuff___:)___

    _______
    Silicone intake boot
    Silicone rad hoses
    EMP Waterpump
    PWR Radiator
    Eyeball Arm CA mounts
    Sunbelt CAMS w chip for 24# injectors, Euro MAF, Conforti/ITG CAI
    96+ exhaust manifolds
    accessory UDPs
    M roadster lever
    Euro fLoAtErS
    GC RTAB shims, RSMs, T/S Coilover with Koni DA f/SA R & 450#f/550#r Eibach ERS
    All done in my garage

    corkscrew:Laguna Seca

  7. #7
    Registered Member
    Location
    Irvine, CA, United States
    Member No: 25723 jsubbi is an unknown quantity at this point jsubbi's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Posts
    323
    Rep Power
    0


    Yes | No

    Finally found the real start problem

    I had the start problem several more times, but my "bad key" theory didn't hold up--my second key wouldn't start the car. I knew the problem was heat related, and based on the interior cabin temp, so I sprayed some cold compressed air (using a can of Dust Off) onto the ignition ring antenna (sits around the key hole and reads the chip in the key). Sure enough, the car started right up.

    I kept the air can in the car to see if I could repeat the fix, and it worked successfully several more times, so I replaced the antenna. The best news is that it was only $40, even less than a new key!

    John


+ Reply to Thread


Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

     

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may post new threads
  • You may post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
1e2 Forum