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  1. #1
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    Engine Temp question.

    Any idea why my engine temp gauge would all of a sudden become sensitive to a cold climate? I live in Florida and we see very few cold days but lately it's been fairly cold (40-60). If I'm on the highway, the engine temp never reaches dead center on the gauge. Only after a good amount of city stop and go does it reach center and even then regular driving cause the temp gauge to drop again.

    This has only started to occur, I've had the car 6yrs +

    I've replaced nothing lately but my water pump and thermostat we're replaced at 75k. otherwise, the cooling system is stock. im at 110k now.

    Ideas?


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    Sounds like sticky thermostat.

    Might not be closing all the way.
    <IMG SRC=http://mydrive.roadfly.com/photos/pic.php?u=73302r2fUS&i=2642><FONT FACE="Comic Sans MS" COLOR=Gray SIZE=+1>PaulR</FONT>
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    does that require another thermostat replacement?


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    i'd guess so.

    unless you want to tinker with the one that's in there.
    <IMG SRC=http://mydrive.roadfly.com/photos/pic.php?u=73302r2fUS&i=2642><FONT FACE="Comic Sans MS" COLOR=Gray SIZE=+1>PaulR</FONT>
    <FONT COLOR=Black>'CCA Memb #8743
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    '85 325e - my "Ol' Paint"
    '96 VFR750F - smoooth
    '86 Ducati 750-F1 - raw</FONT>

  5. #5
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    yeah...I'm no pro mechanic. I'd just break it more


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    Re: yeah...I'm no pro mechanic. I'd just break it more

    I had thought to include what I might do to check things, but figured it'd sound mostly crazy. But here goes, just for grins...

    1) rap on the housing a bit
    * but don't break the housing! (that's the disclaimer)
    * this would be to seat the t-stat if it's got a slight "hang", leaving it open slightly.
    2) remove old t-stat
    * check for corrosion, foreign bits trapped at the seal, broken seal, bent parts, etc.
    * boil the t-stat in a pot and verify it opens/closes smoothly
    3) when all else fails, replace it.

    In any case, so long as the temp comes nearly (like 1 or 2 needle-widths) up to normal, you should be OK for most driving. <IMG SRC=http://mydrive.roadfly.com/photos/pic.php?u=73302r2fUS&i=2642><FONT FACE="Comic Sans MS" COLOR=Gray SIZE=+1>PaulR</FONT>
    <FONT COLOR=Black>'CCA Memb #8743
    '99 M-Coupe - Silver/Black
    '85 325e - my "Ol' Paint"
    '96 VFR750F - smoooth
    '86 Ducati 750-F1 - raw</FONT>

  7. #7
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    How far from its normal position is the needle?

    It might be normal operation of your system in colder conditions. In the summer, my needle goes to the middle of the gauge and stays there. However, when it's colder out (not unusual here in CO) it will often reach only a couple needle widths from the normal center position, unless I'm driving it hard. I'm no expert, but it seems to me that our cars have quite a high capacity cooling system, and in colder conditions, it's more than necessary, so the needle stays a bit on the low side.


    Kevin 368s #19


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    that's possible.

    since it is ALWAYS steamy hot in FL, the car may have been this way for quite some time.

    I wonder if it's somehow related to my chattering valves in the morning. it quiets down with fresh oil but it's only started chattering in the AM after 100kish. Once the car warms up it goes away completely but it sounds like A$$ as I idle through my parking lot.

    could this chatter be a sign of a tired oil pump?


  9. #9
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    Re: May not be valve noise..could be VANOS

    VANOS (timing chain) becomes sloppy and noisy. This has ben talked about here months back..

    I thought it was valve noise too, then someone here suggested I listen closer to where the sound is coming from and I pinned it doen to the timing chain being the noise maker.. In my case ijust replaced the timing chain tensioner spring to see if that would solve the problem and it has....

  10. #10
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    it would be from the front if it was the Timing...

    chain? It chatters only in the morning and stops once the engine is warm, yours did the same?

  11. #11
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    Re: exactly... mine did the same too....


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    A Bmw mechanic blaims one my Vanos bits....

    for the clattering noise coming from the front of my car. The part ($$$$) that pushes oil in and out of the vanos system. medal part housed in an aluminum part... wears out, makes nasty noises! He says the spring tensioner makes a totally diff noise. He promised it won't hurt the engine but it will get louder with time...

    He also sighted that one of my lower pulleys is creating a noise...

    So I'm going to have him install my new radiator along with a hand-full of other parts at a very good (after-hours) price!

    I'll have to address the Vanos issue on another day... but at least I'll KNOW what needs replacing on rd 2.

    - kris


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    Re: A Bmw mechanic blaims one my Vanos bits....

    I replaced my VANOS with a unit from www.DrVanos.com. Rattles all gone. I also replaced the camshaft chain tensioner and guide, which are easy to do while doing the VANOS. Dr. Vanos will rent the special tools that make the job fairly easy.

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    VERY NICE. I watched the vids online...

    the busted up, worn out sample sounds like my coupe...

    I'll need to secure some freelance work for this job!

    - jeeez

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    you could also do a vanos rebuild


    http://www.beisansystems.com/

    I bought a rebuild kit for my gfs 330i and will be doing it once the weather warms up (75F).

    It's much cheaper and you can also replace a lot of other seals in the process. Dr. Vanos option will be faster and will have the same end result at a bit higher cost.


    Rick Kim member of CRS Club
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  16. #16
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    what lvl mechanic job is that? rate 1 easy to 5hrd


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    Re: what lvl mechanic job is that? rate 1 easy to 5hrd

    It took me me approx. 4 hours to replace the VANOs with a unit from DrVanos, the cam timing chain, tensioner, guide, and valve cover gaskets. Since I'd previously done the fan delete mod it was a little easier without a fan to remove first.

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