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  1. #1
    robertplattbell
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    Adjuster Unit 11617544805


    The "adjuster unit" (Item Number 7 in the picture below or on attached link) on my 2002 3.0 is making a ticking noise.

    It appears to be driven by a stepper motor and has ticked in the past and the stopped ticking. It appears the stepper motor is dithering back and forth as it idles.

    I have removed it and cleaned it (the intake is filthy on the inside and encrusted with an unremovable yellow film which was also present on the underside of the valve cover.

    Anyone experience this ticking? Should I be carrying a spare Adjuster unit. $200 part. Takes 2 seconds to replace.

    Ideas? Car otherwise runs fine.


  2. #2
    robertplattbell
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    Some Links and possible answers.


    I found this thread on the E36 forum (same engine, basically) with a video (see link below)

    http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=575174

    Mine does not rattle THAT BAD (and I would never let me engine get that filthy dirty!)

    Nevertheless, it looks like I should at least keep an eye out for a used one to have as a spare, as it sounds like it will fail down the road, probably when I least want it to.

    The thread claims that you can find one for $20

    Here is a picture of the before and after from that thread. Mine looks like the "before" picture.

    FWIW.

  3. #3
    robertplattbell
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    Scary Scenario

    This thread:

    http://www.[Oops!].com/forums/showthread.php?t=317362

    Claims the things can come apart and ingest parts into the engine.

    The flap is not supposed to oscillate, but open and close above/below 3250 RPM to create different intake runner lengths for increase torque at low end, power at high end.

    Sort of like the old Yamaha Ford SHO dual intake runner system:


  4. #4
    Robert Platt Bell
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    Ordered a new one today


    This part, also referred to as the DISA valve, is known to fail. I removed it today and the flapper is loose (hence the ticking) and the rivet holding the end of the flap on has nearly worn out.

    So, time for a new DISA valve.

    ECS tuning seems to have the best price, followed closely by Pelican.

  5. #5
    Robert Platt Bell
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    Forgot I had a $50 core credit with ECS!

    So the net cost was $177. I guess that old axle I sent back was worth something...

  6. #6
    Robert Platt Bell
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    Replaced DISA valve today

    This is not a hard part to replace. Two torx bolts (allen wrench will work in a pinch) and one plug.

    The old one as definately shot. You should not be able to turn the flap by hand.

    See link for pictures.

    Still have a lot more work to do....

  7. #7
    Robert Platt Bell
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    THREE torx bolts!



    I mistakenly posted there were two - there are three.

  8. #8
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    Can Parts of a disa/adjuster unit be bought ?

    I have a 2002 bmw x5 3.0i and it had a noise coming from the engine. The noise is louder when in drive and reverse and quieter when in park. I am hoping it is the disa/adjuster unit.
    I took it out try to modify it and realize I need the plug that goes through the unit to the flipper. Can this piece be bought seperate. The unit is functioning. The flipper is not because of the plug being
    broken.....HELP !
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  9. #9
    Robert Platt Bell
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    Sold as a unit, yours is broken, likely.

    Quote Originally Posted by Unregistered View Post
    I have a 2002 bmw x5 3.0i and it had a noise coming from the engine. The noise is louder when in drive and reverse and quieter when in park. I am hoping it is the disa/adjuster unit.
    I took it out try to modify it and realize I need the plug that goes through the unit to the flipper. Can this piece be bought seperate. The unit is functioning. The flipper is not because of the plug being
    broken.....HELP !
    I believe they are sold only as a unit. If yours is falling apart, chances are, it needs to be replaced.

    As I showed in some photos, when the end pin comes out, it is pretty much the end for these things.

    Shop around, you might be able to find one cheaper. Probably not by much...
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  10. #10
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    Member No: 191094 tmvatlanta is an unknown quantity at this point tmvatlanta's Avatar
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  11. #11
    Robert Platt Bell
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    Good to KNoiw

    Good information to know.

    As I recall the part (new) was not that expensive. Like $125 or so.
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  12. #12
    Robert Platt Bell
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    Interesting - Overkill?

    The kit you describe is interesting, and typical of the "I'll fix it for good!" mentality that pervades the shadetree car mechanic community.

    People buy an older car and something wears out. They take a part out and say, "Hmmmm. cheap plastic POS!" and then they buy the "upgraded" anodized aluminum whoop-de-do to "fix it for good!"

    But often, the "cheap plastic POS" lasted for over 100,000 miles, and a standard replacement part would end up being the last one put in the car until it is junked.

    So, going to overkill super-duper parts is often just a wast of money - if they cost more than the stock part (in this case, at $75, it is a considerable savings).

    However, if it doesn't work like stock, then all bets are off. Over the years, I have tried to "upgrade" cars with super-duper parts that manufacturers promised me would work better than stock.

    Rarely was that the case, and in some cases, super-duper parts caused more problems (such as exotic spark plugs).

    With an older car, maintaining it at a reasonable cost is often key. Understanding how long the car will last (and more importantly, how long you will keep it) is one thing to take into consideration.
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