Info please on rear window trim

[NCZM]

I just noticed the black rubber trim piece that runs around the soft top window has become un-attached in one corner. This trim piece has a small metal strip under it that runs along the top of the window but does not continue around the corners or the sides. It does not appear to connect or hold the window to the top in any way. Does anybody know it's purpose? I don't see how to re-attach it to keep it from coming completely off. The top is in generally good condition as is the window and at the cost that they are I'd rather not replace them if not absolutely necessary. What will happen to the top or window if the piece continues to come un-attached all the way around the window? Is there a fix?
Thanks for the info in advance.

[Robert Platt Bell]

This is fairly normal and happens a lot, particularly if, like me, you leave the top down all the time.

I have tucked in the edge of the top under the trim and it seems to stay there. If I could inject some glue in there, maybe it would help.

The other alternative is to replace the top or the window or both, and that seems a bit dramatic.

[NCZM]

Does the top leak at all where it has become detached? I keep the top down most of the time but here in North Carolina you better be able to put the top up when the summer storms start rolling through. I have tried to push it back into place but there appears to be nothing there to hold it. Don't want to glue it because I'm afraid that it might screw something up if/when I have to change out the rear window. You're right, replacing the top is drastic for this, everything else in the world needs repair at the moment and I'd rather not spend money if not completely necessary. Do you have a technique that keeps it in place??

[TexZan]

Use the clear aquarium glue (used for sealing the glass panels of an aquarium and keeping them watertight). It peels off when it's time to replace the window and holds fairly well. Put the glue under the flap. You'll need a credit card/plastic spoon/etc or something thin and firm to lift the edge of the window piping and tuck in the fabric. Does that make sense? Mine lasted for about 6 years (re-glued it after 2) before the piping actually came completely off and I had to replace the window.

97 2.8 Arctic Silver - Tanin Red interior with wood console - black top
Whalen Shift Machine, polished - Type II windscreen (non roll-hoops) - Bilstein HD shocks/struts
Axxis Metal Master pads - Brembo rotors - Doug Whalen seat bushings
Passenger Eject (unfortunately non-functional) - OEM Passenger Airbag Disable switch
Polk Audio all around - Blaupunkt PA amps - LeatherZ Mark II armrest - Strong Strut Trio - AUX input via tapedeck

[XZ-Driver]

I am not sure I understand your problem completely. On my Z3 and my brother's the black trim was attached ok but some of the top canvas material had slipped out from behind the black plastic trim. I just used a credit card to lift the black trim a bit and slide the material back behind the black plastic trim. My brother noticed the same problem on his car and brought it to a covertable top repair and installation company. The guy told him the problem was very common and place some glue under the canvas that was sticking out and slipped it back in under the black rubber strip. That was several years ago with no problem. I believe the black plastic trim is part of the window and the canvas was glued or some double sided sticky tape was applied to prevent the canvas from slipping out. Eventually the glue dries out and then the canvas pulls away from under the plastic strip. I am not an expert but have had this happen to me.

[st-pete-z3]

Common issue with age. The part to the canvas is just a tuck under. A dab of some glue helps. Over time the section attached to the window comes off,; usually on the top corners first. Then you can fix it with some crazy glue. But to be preemptive about the issue and if you are good with the application of RTV calking, I found that if you use some clear or black RTV calking and put a bead all the way around the window trim it helps. Otherwise once the black comes off to bad the window needs to be replaced.

[NCZM]

Believe I understand, the bead of silicone goes between the trim/cloth on the window side. st-pete-z3 got it right, it is coming off on the top right corner. I'll give it a try, thanks much. Think I remember that you're a C17 pilot, noticed on the news that one went down recently outside Elmendorf, sorry. I have many thousands of hours 130 time as Nav in my previous life.

[TexZan]

Luckily I didn't know any of the guys but thanks. They were a very experienced crew practicing for an airshow. No word on what happened yet. Sad day.

97 2.8 Arctic Silver - Tanin Red interior with wood console - black top
Whalen Shift Machine, polished - Type II windscreen (non roll-hoops) - Bilstein HD shocks/struts
Axxis Metal Master pads - Brembo rotors - Doug Whalen seat bushings
Passenger Eject (unfortunately non-functional) - OEM Passenger Airbag Disable switch
Polk Audio all around - Blaupunkt PA amps - LeatherZ Mark II armrest - Strong Strut Trio - AUX input via tapedeck

[NCZM]

Roger that. Found out one of the USCG Sacramento Ca 130s hit a (or several) USMC helos while performing a SAR off the coast of Ca several months ago. Never a good day when you lose people.

[Robert Platt Bell]

The P.O. had the dealer glue it, that didn't work. The top was replaced with three days left on the warrranty.

I've basically ignored the problem for the last six years.

It seems to me, I could go to great lengths to fix it, only to have it pull out again.

I tucked it in on my recent trip and it seems to be staying. Maybe some glue injected underneath the edge would help.