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Thread: butyl tape for vapor barrier
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10-18-2010 09:04 PM #1
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10-18-2010 09:54 PM #2
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10-18-2010 10:44 PM #3Registered Member
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- Ooltewah, TN, United States
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I've just bought 2 rolls (made in Japan) from
this company. It's expensive but top notch.
http://crawlspaceinfo.com/DrySpace_Tapes_Fasteners.htm
1998 BMW 540i 6 speed
Arctic silver, M sport suspension (euro delivery), prod. date 05/98, non VANOS
Staggered 18" style 32 OEM wheels
3.15 open differential
Remus exhaust
AFE CAI with improved heat shield
Z3 shifter
VDO oil pressure and temperature gauges in place of headlight/fog switches
Powder coated valve covers-satin black
CDV delete
Debadged
AEA DRL module (aftermarket daytime running lights)
1997 BMW 528iA
Alpine white, premium package, prod. date 04/97, single VANOS
Staggered 17" style 32 OEM wheels
Debadged
AEA DRL module
Custom made sun blinds for rear seating area
2000 Nissan Frontier Desert Runner, AKA "The Work Horse"
Garage aids:
Direct Lift Pro Park 8
Campbell Hausfeld 28 gallon oil lubricated air compressor
Newair ACP-1400H portable air conditioner and heater
Auto Enginuity scan tool with BMW enhanced option
Actron 9135 scan tool-for quick readouts
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10-19-2010 07:56 AM #4Registered Member
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- Toronto-ish, , Canada
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Re: butyl tape for vapor barrier
Funny. You can find 1000 kinds at any hardware store and I had to search all over God's green Earth to find any at all.
True butyl tape is pretty old school. I only saw three parameters that changed: 1/ total length 2/ profile (round, square) 3/ diameter Fo the vapour barriers it isn't really critical. It squishes flat and sorta sticks the foam down, so: 1/ whatever amount you think you'll need with each use being a circuit of the door 2/ doesn't matter 3/ not critical, say 1/4" or 3/8"?
There are other materials which are more modern like 3M Windoweld and many others. These aren't strictly butyl tape and I don't know if they are more or less removeable and whether they'll cause you to shred the vapour barrier when you try to remove it the next time.
I have found my butyl tape to be not all that tacky. I always have to use a heat gun to preheat the door and then continue to heat the vapour barrier and push and squish. Careful not to melt the vapour barrier itself.
I haven't tried it, but I've always thought that "acoustic sealant" (used to bond vapour barrier to base plates or studs in home construction) may actually have better properties for this job. It comes semi-liquid, goes on with a caulking gun, never hardens, it will bond things together without being "sticky" and attracting everything. It's also really simple to find at any hardware store.
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10-19-2010 08:20 AM #5
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10-19-2010 08:30 AM #6
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