can anyone take a look @ my accelerator pedal

[Eurodavid]

realOEM diagram and give me their opinion on what is causing my accelerator pedal to exhibit a slight sticking when I first hop in it in the mornings. After about a further 8-12 pedal pushes and letting off, it no longer sticks. Here's the RealOEM link:


Accelerator pedal diagram, '96 528i e39



Note that the actual accelerator cable going into my engine bay and to my throttle body was removed 14 months ago & cleaned and lightly lubed up before reinstalling them (also note the butterfly throttle body mechanisms are smooth as grease, as I just checked by removing the cable ends and working them by hand). Also note, the oem rubber cable ends on the throttle body itself were removed and replaced with machined aluminum ones (I did a writeup on this) so that I no longer ever have to worry about those rubber stops/supports degrading and/or getting hard.

I am wondering, in the realOEM diagram above, could it be that little spring (#8) that is failing? Would it be causing the whole assembly to stick (I always thought if a spring like that failed, the pedal wouldn't stick but would not return to its starting position). That spring looks tricky as heck to remove, as the left side of the diagram is all greyed out and I can't find it anywhere else in RealOEM and/or the TIS diagrams.

If it is not that #8 spring, would it be those two bush bearings (#5) that are wearing and causing the momentary sticking?

Anybody ever worked on their accelerator pedal before? Easy to get apart (after removing the lower dash covering), especially that #8 spring assembly? Or is there a trick I can squirt some WD40 or drop some oil on those #5 bushings without disassembling everything (except for that lower dash covering) to see if that solves the sticking??


Thanks for hints and/or tips.

Eurodavid

[JimLev]

the cable from the throttle body and the pedal still sticks I'd try some lube on both #5's and where the linkage connects to the pedal.

[Bmw540san]

throtle plate meets intake tube. Have you checked that before?



1998 BMW 540i 6 speed
Arctic silver, M sport suspension (euro delivery), prod. date 05/98, non VANOS
Staggered 18" style 32 OEM wheels
3.15 open differential
Remus exhaust
AFE CAI with improved heat shield
Z3 shifter
VDO oil pressure and temperature gauges in place of headlight/fog switches
Powder coated valve covers-satin black
CDV delete
Debadged
AEA DRL module (aftermarket daytime running lights)

1997 BMW 528iA
Alpine white, premium package, prod. date 04/97, single VANOS
Staggered 17" style 32 OEM wheels
Debadged
AEA DRL module
Custom made sun blinds for rear seating area

2000 Nissan Frontier Desert Runner, AKA "The Work Horse"

Garage aids:
Direct Lift Pro Park 8
Campbell Hausfeld 28 gallon oil lubricated air compressor
Newair ACP-1400H portable air conditioner and heater
Auto Enginuity scan tool with BMW enhanced option
Actron 9135 scan tool-for quick readouts

[lezonebay]

not the throttle body as I did clean the plate and sprayed lubricant in the engine bay area everywhere - the throttle cable, linkage, etc.

It feels as there is a small obstacle the pedal has to go through and then it is smooth and nice... for a while, usually till next startup.

1997 BMW 840CiA
1990 BMW Z1
1999 BMW 528iT (Hauler mobile)
2002 Astro Van AWD
2003 Nissan 350Z Enthusiast Package
1987 BMW 535i with 5spd manual (for sale)
1992 BMW 735iL (needs head and interior)
1977 BMW 320i (project racecar)
2007 Mazda CX9 AWD (Wife mobile)
1998 Yamaha Blaster+Breeze

1995 850CSI CD00177 (SOLD)

[jimcash]

First - have you checked the throttle itself?

Before moving the pedal open the hood and try moving the throttle by hand. If it sticks there then it may be a build up of stuff inside the throttle body at the point were the throttle plate closes.

Cheers
Jim Cash

[BigRickMc50]

Euro

If you disconnect the cable from the Accelerator pedal, then operate the pedal (when cold) you'll determine whether the "stiction" is in the cabin, or the engine compartment.

If you find that it still sticks, you can lube one item on the pedal assembly then retest in order to see where the problem originates. But even if you solve the problem that way, lube the heck out of everything just because...

As they say, "There's no such thing as TOO MUCH lubricant!!" j/k