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  1. #1
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    Member No: 73612 PeterBivo is an unknown quantity at this point PeterBivo's Avatar
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    Yes | No

    Wheel bearing question for those who've been (m)

    there. My '98 528 w/192k finally needs a wheel bearing (right front) replaced I'm pretty sure. I've had a low-pitched hum from the right front which has gotten a bit worse over the last few weeks. When I jerk the wheel to the left at 30mph+, the pitch changes (gets a bit louder). Turn left, noice is lessened. My question is, the searching I've done here, many say to jack up the vehicle and grab the tire at 6 and 12 oclock & try to discern any play in the wheel. I did that today and it's solid, no movement or play. When I spin the wheel by hand, I hear the clunking and it gets louder as the wheel is spinning faster. So, can a wheel bearing be shot even if the wheel still feels solid but makes noice whilst driven?



  2. #2
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    Yes | No

    Yes

    If U keep driving on that bad bearing, it will loosen up so that you can feel the play in it. No rush, however; you can put a lot of miles on a bad wheel bearing before you start to risk bad things happening.
    '03 525i Sapphire Blu/Grey, SP, Nav
    '02 325it Orient Blu./Grey, SP, Nav
    '98 323is Arctic Sil./Blk, SP
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  3. #3
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    well yes, but the noise ! its about 75usd and 40

    minutes of work.

    1997 BMW 840CiA
    1990 BMW Z1
    1999 BMW 528iT (Hauler mobile)
    2002 Astro Van AWD
    2003 Nissan 350Z Enthusiast Package
    1987 BMW 535i with 5spd manual (for sale)
    1992 BMW 735iL (needs head and interior)
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    1998 Yamaha Blaster+Breeze

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    Yes | No

    40 minutes internet time...

    More like four hours for me.

    dave
    03 540i6

  5. #5
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    Yes | No

    Yes, it will take a few hours to change it (m)

    The strut is in the way so the pinch bolt needs to be loosened and the wheel carrier lowered so you have access to the 4 bolts that hold it in. These bolts have thread lock on them so they are not going to spin out easily.

  6. #6
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    Yes | No

    It took me a while to do my

    two front bearings, but I don't work too fast. And a rusted/stripped pancake rotor bolt was a beyotch (what do you mean, a torx bit won't work??)! Now that I got a impact driver (the kind you hit with a hammer), no issue.

    To calibrate, just did my front brake pads and rotors, four hours for everything from cleaning the garage to get a space ready, a beer after any hard task, peeking in the nooks and crannys, taking care of a few hunny dos that came out of nowhere, and a nice country road bedding session when all was buttoned up.

    dave
    03 540i6

  7. #7
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    thats crap design then. Took me 35 minutes in a

    Nissan 350Z that my good friend managed to curb enough to kill the bearings.


    1997 BMW 840CiA
    1990 BMW Z1
    1999 BMW 528iT (Hauler mobile)
    2002 Astro Van AWD
    2003 Nissan 350Z Enthusiast Package
    1987 BMW 535i with 5spd manual (for sale)
    1992 BMW 735iL (needs head and interior)
    1977 BMW 320i (project racecar)
    2007 Mazda CX9 AWD (Wife mobile)
    1998 Yamaha Blaster+Breeze

    1995 850CSI CD00177 (SOLD)

  8. #8
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    Yes | No

    you got to drop the knuckle

    So after removing brakes and rotors, still need to loosen pinch bolt on strut and take off one of the suspension arms, which allows you to wiggle the knuckle down. Then you can get to the bearing, and use a gun on the four bolts.

    If you are an experienced wrench and don't have any interruptions, I can see getting one side done in 60 minutes, especially if you have a lift.

    dave
    03 540i6

  9. #9
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    Yes | No

    Re: you got to drop the knuckle

    I don't think you have to drop a suspension arm on the six cyl. cars for this job, but it's been a number of years since I did it. If anything, the knuckle tends to slip down the strut a bit so you have to keep some upward pressure on it to make sure it is seated when tightening the pinch bolt.
    '03 525i Sapphire Blu/Grey, SP, Nav
    '02 325it Orient Blu./Grey, SP, Nav
    '98 323is Arctic Sil./Blk, SP
    '95 M3 Cosmos Blk./Blk

  10. #10
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    Re: Wheel bearing question for those who've been (m)

    Don't try to save a few $ and buy the cheap bearings, I had to do this job twice due to the cheap bearings not being readable by the wheel speed sensor, pulse ring was pressed to deep in the knock off bearing.
    Buy the F.A.G bearings.
    Mine felt okay by hand when jacked up, but rumbled terribly when rolling with weight on them.
    Plan on at least 4 hrs. one side of mine, the bolts came off with an impact wrench the other was brutal, 3 of the 4 bolts required a 4 ft piece of pipe on a breaker bar a 1/4 turn at a time.
    If you have a 600 ft/lb pneumatic impact wrench, it will make the job easier.

  11. #11
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    Yes | No

    I'm getting the OEM F.A.G thru autohaus (m)

    For about $160.00 w/the bolts. I wouldn't use anything but oem unless I'm selling the car (which I'm not). My dealer is doing the labor for $204.00 as it's mid-winter here in the snowbelt & I don't have pneumatic tools:))


  12. #12
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    Yes | No

    Your BMW dealer installs parts from autohaus?

    '03 525i Sapphire Blu/Grey, SP, Nav
    '02 325it Orient Blu./Grey, SP, Nav
    '98 323is Arctic Sil./Blk, SP
    '95 M3 Cosmos Blk./Blk

  13. #13
    Craig in Canada
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    Re: I'm getting the OEM F.A.G thru autohaus (m)

    I got F.A.G. from DaveZ back in 2005 - they are holding up well

  14. #14
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    Yup! They have no problem putting in OEM (m)

    parts that I get for cost. They actually work WITH their customers instead of bending them over, plus I have the X5 which I bring to them when something is needed. 3 weeks ago, left front outer CV boot ripped on the X5. Got the boot kit from autohausaz.com for $10.00 and they did the installation.


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