Loud screeching noise from 540i????

[rwthomas1]

Hello All,
Just replaced the belts, idlers and tensioners on my 540i last night, and changed a PS hose too. On the way home from dinner tonight a whining noise developed, changes with RPM, and intermittently there will be a very loud screeching for a few seconds. The engine actually stalled during one of these screeching events!! Slight "burnt rubber" smell. Sometimes it will do it when I rev the engine up, sometimes not. Since its electronic throttle I cannot be under the hood and rev it at the same time, and no one to do that for me just yet....

There was a little hairpin looking bit with the alt/wp/ps tensioner that I had no idea what to do with it. Anyone know what it was for? I thought maybe it locked a tensioner but I couldn't find anywhere it would fit.....

If I had to guess I would say an accessory, alt, wp or ps is about to fail. Maybe the new tensioner instigated it, maybe not. I know that tensioning the alt/wp/ps belt is a b!tch, if somehow I screwed up the process, too much tension could have killed something?

I may tear into it tonight. Pull the belts and spin everything to see if I can feel the problem.

Any ideas welcome!

RT

[Whorse]

Andreas
Queens NY
BMWCCA# 186796
86 325es (wrecked by careless driver)
87 325 (project for life)
00 540is 6spd (daily driver)

[rwthomas1]

Steering is/feels normal, fluid in the reservoir, 1/2" up on the dipstick.
RT

[plexus]

Well take it from a guy (me) who's water pump failed causing $2000 worth of damage because of the poor design of front end of the engine area (thanks bmw). better find this problem and find it fast. one guy on here was gloating because he changed his water pump before it failed saving his a catastrophe. how are you supposed to know? take the time to check everything and if you can't i guess the rule of thumb with these cars is to replace anything you don't know the condition of. is it worth is?plexus
http://www.oldbmw.com
00 540i M sport/6sp (Dieter)
71 3.0CS euro (Anelise)
84 528e (Florian - decommissioned)

[JimLev]

on the tensioner assy from falling out in shipping, you don't use it.
I'm guessing the screeching was from a slipping belt. Did you check the belt deflection after you adjusted the tensioner?

[Bmw540san]

could happen to any of us if not paying attention.



1998 BMW 540i 6 speed
Arctic silver, M sport suspension (euro delivery), prod. date 05/98, non VANOS
Staggered 18" style 32 OEM wheels
3.15 open differential
Remus exhaust
AFE CAI with improved heat shield
Z3 shifter
VDO oil pressure and temperature gauges in place of headlight/fog switches
Powder coated valve covers-satin black
CDV delete
Debadged
AEA DRL module (aftermarket daytime running lights)

1997 BMW 528iA
Alpine white, premium package, prod. date 04/97, single VANOS
Staggered 17" style 32 OEM wheels
Debadged
AEA DRL module
Custom made sun blinds for rear seating area

2000 Nissan Frontier Desert Runner, AKA "The Work Horse"

Garage aids:
Direct Lift Pro Park 8
Campbell Hausfeld 28 gallon oil lubricated air compressor
Newair ACP-1400H portable air conditioner and heater
Auto Enginuity scan tool with BMW enhanced option
Actron 9135 scan tool-for quick readouts

[rwthomas1]

Just to restate, when the loud screeching occur(s) at idle it has STALLED the engine. I don't think that a loose belt would do that, only a tight one. The only pulley with enough belt purchase to STALL the engine is the WP. Alt is small diameter and PS is only 1/4 wrapped by the belt. If they seized the belt would just smoke. WP is the only thing that makes sense.

I'm on my way to the garage to take it all apart and find out, I'll update when I tear it down.

RT

[rwthomas1]

Removed the alt/wp/ps belt and the problem is obvious. Alternator is fried! WP/PS turn nice and smooth, Alt is crunchy and grinding. Easier to replace than the WP but much more expensive? I guess I'll find out.

RT

[JimLev]

probably $700+, online sources (also rebuilt) you may find one for $400. If you get in a bind and really need one in a hurry I have a used one that you can borrow.

[BMW540san]

price on that at the moment. Good luck.
http://www.autohausaz.com/search/pro...er=12317508054

[rwthomas1]

Thanks for the offer, Bavauto has them for $511 including $100 core, so $411, not too bad. Going to try Inskip in the AM, see what they can do. Dad lives in NH, so a trip to Bavauto tomorrow may be in the cards. RT

[rwthomas1]

Got a reman Alt from the local parts store, $410 + core. 3year warranty. Got the pulley holding tool and wrench for the WP pulley at Bavauto. Worth every penny. The fan was so tight that I needed to place the holding tool against the fenderwell and pound the wrench with a hammer. Hard. No way that it was coming off with any homebrewed setup.

Replacing an alternator is pretty easy ONCE YOU GET THE FAN OFF! In fact, I will probably remove the fan just to change the serpentine belt, it makes it that much easier.

A few tips: Loosen the alternator first and gently crack the coolant seal. This will allow the coolant to drain slowly while you work on the fan, etc. and not splash everywhere. On a 540 automatic, the alternator CANNOT be removed from the bottom. The auto transmission cooler is in the way. Removing that is a b!tch so just pop the upper rad hose off and take the alt out the top. Check the WP pulley carefully. Mine was cracked, just barely visible.

Fun, fun, fun!

RT

[JimLev]

If you just want to drop the coolant level in the block you can also use the alternator drain plug.

[fritracer]

just about everything on these cars. Great job. Your input on this post has been valuable.Fritracer
Cincinnati, OH
2000 540ia Sport Package 9/99 Silver/Black
1970 Dodge Challenger T/A 420 stroker w/6 Pak 430 HP,
510 lbft torque

[Eurodavid]

[JimLev]

"Drive It Like You Stole It, A Sickness for Quickness"
The Bottle Rocket "King of Spray" 2 Stage Nitrous Oxide
Dare to be different and stand out among the crowd of me-to-cars!
No guts, no glory! Tire smoke, not traction control!
Zionsville all aluminum radiator to replace the 3 leak prone Nissens Radiators!

NOS Progressive 2 Stage Controller with port injection
Snow's Performance Methanol/Water Injection
Dinan downloads, VAC Under Drive Pulleys
Dinan Carbon Fiber CAI
Dinan Front Strut Bar
Electric Cooling Fan w/PWM controller
NGK Iridium Plugs
DDE Enhanced Angel Eyes, Smoked Lenses
Koni FSD's/H&R Springs, BAV Brass Caliper Bushings
Eisenmann Race Exhaust (from H8-Rain's car)
///M5 3.15 LSD
///M5 Sway Bars, Front & Rear
Energy Suspension Polyurethane Sway Bar Bushings
///M5 Gauge Cluster Rings ///M5 Lip Spoiler
///M5 Mirrors and Switches
Leather Z weighted shift knob (thanks H8-Rain)
Rogue “Octane” Short Shift kit w/WSR
Rogue Tranny Mounts
StopTech Brake Lines Front & Rear
Axxis Deluxe Plus pads Front & Rear
Staggered M Parallel 66, Xenons
Modified CDV, UGDO
Euro Storage Tray (thanks Zombywolf)
Redline in Diff and Tranny
Passport 8500 X50, Escort ZR3 Laser Jammer
G-Tech/Competition Pro Data Logger
Auto Enginuity OBD-II Scan Tool
25% Tint, X-Pel, LoJack
PIAA Driving Lights
BMW CCA Member Boston Chapter

[JimLev]

from the earlier guys that were here back when the E39 first came out.

[rwthomas1]

Yes, I knew about the alternator drain plug but honestly, if I'm removing the alternator anyway, just backing out the mounting bolts and cracking the seal does it just fine. You also have to consider that the auto trans cooler is bolted to the bottom of the alt, partially obstructing that drain plug. I'm not even sure you can remove that drain plug with the cooler in place? Removing the cooler is a bigger PITA than removing the alt. Pulling the alt out an 1/8" or so results in a nice controlled stream, not a huge gush. With the car on jackstands a 3.5 gallon bucket fits just right under the alternator to catch 99% of the coolant. I did this first thing and then got to taking out the fan shroud, fan, expansion tank, etc. Draining did not take very long at all.

RT

[JimLev]

"Drive It Like You Stole It, A Sickness for Quickness"
The Bottle Rocket "King of Spray" 2 Stage Nitrous Oxide
Dare to be different and stand out among the crowd of me-to-cars!
No guts, no glory! Tire smoke, not traction control!
Zionsville all aluminum radiator to replace the 3 leak prone Nissens Radiators!

NOS Progressive 2 Stage Controller with port injection
Snow's Performance Methanol/Water Injection
Dinan downloads, VAC Under Drive Pulleys
Dinan Carbon Fiber CAI
Dinan Front Strut Bar
Electric Cooling Fan w/PWM controller
NGK Iridium Plugs
DDE Enhanced Angel Eyes, Smoked Lenses
Koni FSD's/H&R Springs, BAV Brass Caliper Bushings
Eisenmann Race Exhaust (from H8-Rain's car)
///M5 3.15 LSD
///M5 Sway Bars, Front & Rear
Energy Suspension Polyurethane Sway Bar Bushings
///M5 Gauge Cluster Rings ///M5 Lip Spoiler
///M5 Mirrors and Switches
Leather Z weighted shift knob (thanks H8-Rain)
Rogue “Octane” Short Shift kit w/WSR
Rogue Tranny Mounts
StopTech Brake Lines Front & Rear
Axxis Deluxe Plus pads Front & Rear
Staggered M Parallel 66, Xenons
Modified CDV, UGDO
Euro Storage Tray (thanks Zombywolf)
Redline in Diff and Tranny
Passport 8500 X50, Escort ZR3 Laser Jammer
G-Tech/Competition Pro Data Logger
Auto Enginuity OBD-II Scan Tool
25% Tint, X-Pel, LoJack
PIAA Driving Lights
BMW CCA Member Boston Chapter

[rwthomas1]

Inskip wanted $960.00 for the alt! And that was a reman! Insane. Bavauto had the alt for $510 including $100 core. I have an excellent local import parts house that recently picked up the "carquest" franchise as well. I'm friendly with the owner, doing import parts only for 35 years, so they know what they are doing. Got me the alt for $410 with a $150 core, so technically the same price as Bavauto. The 3year warranty seemed okay with me, Bosch factory reman. Autozone could have ordered an alt for $415 with a "lifetime" warranty. My experience with them is "lifetime" means "we'll just keep giving you free parts for as long as you are willing to change them out, and thats usually yearly"

Interestingly I have gotten BMW and VW parts from him and most come with OEM markings, etc. even though they are often in a Carquest box now.

RT