Drivers inside door handle cable problem

[Mogy]

I've searched and read everything I could find about the inside door latch opener. I've recently replaced the inside handle for the second time and I've made sure the cable was properly inserted into the slot in the handle mechanism. If the cable isn't inserted properly, the handle has slack and it will not open the door. In my case, the cable is inserted properly, there is very little slack. When I pull the handle there is normal resistance and I can feel the cable pull, but it doesn't open every time, and I have to pull it a couple time and wiggle the door. It seems like the cable has been slightly stretched. Perhaps the sheath has deteriorated? Has anyone come across this kind of problem? Any ideas? I have not taken the door panel off yet. Mogy
528i 1999

[Mogy]

By the way, when I roll down the window and open the car from the outside handle, it works just fine.

[94583]

you will need to replace the cable and most likely the door lock latch. If you look at the other end of the cable (the latch side) you'll most likely see that the latch housing is cracked. If you dont see a crack then you should be good with just replacing the cable. You can not see with your naked eye that the cable has stretched enough to cause lack of travel to open the door, and when you roll your window down it could be that the slack from the cable is taken up from the window.

[94583]

yes, you will need to take a closer look at the opposite end where the cable goes in.

[Mogy]

Much appreciated! I was hoping for an easier fix, but figured it was more involved, so thanks for the confirmation.Mogy
528i 1999

[Mogy]

Does anyone know where I can find photos or how-to steps on replacing handle cable and latch housing? Ordering and part numbers? Mogy
528i 1999

[@ Viv]

Realoem website

Viv
Northern California
2003 530i Steel Blue Metallic /Gray leather
AT/PP/SP/CWP/Xenon/Folding Rear Seats/Ultimate Cup Holders/Stongard Headlamp Covers/Stealth rear signal bulbs/50% tint/Saab trunk lid handle/PS2s/Aux. adapter/BMWCCA Member/With a Pink Panther on the mirror/E34('91 525i) retired

[fritracer]

I finally replaced the cable and it cured the problem. I was also able to find a metal inside handle on ebay, not the plastic crap you get at a dealer.Fritracer
Cincinnati, OH
2000 540ia Sport Package 9/99 Silver/Black
1970 Dodge Challenger T/A 420 stroker w/6 Pak 430 HP,
510 lbft torque

[fritracer]

Fritracer
Cincinnati, OH
2000 540ia Sport Package 9/99 Silver/Black
1970 Dodge Challenger T/A 420 stroker w/6 Pak 430 HP,
510 lbft torque

[BigRickMc50]

Have you got a link for that site? I'd like to get rid of those plastic handles too.

[fritracer]

after that and lost a lot of stuff; got to love kids.Fritracer
Cincinnati, OH
2000 540ia Sport Package 9/99 Silver/Black
1970 Dodge Challenger T/A 420 stroker w/6 Pak 430 HP,
510 lbft torque

[BigRickMc50]

Okay, no prob. Better that the kids crash the computer and not the T/A.

Any takers on the Challenger yet? There was a show on last night about the construction of the new Challenger, and they parked an original next to a new car, and really showed how much taller the new car is. Kind of a disappointment, but it still looks better than the "new" Charger.

[fritracer]

in the Spring and f it doesn't sell then, I will take it to the Mopar Nationals in August; it will definitely sell there. New Challengers look and drive good; just to big and heavy to throw around like you should be able to; they need a serious diet. Ford got the combination down right with the new Mustang, light weight, high horsepower ( great power to weight ratio), great handling. The Camaro is ugly, cramped and heavy. Chevy missed the mark all the way.Fritracer
Cincinnati, OH
2000 540ia Sport Package 9/99 Silver/Black
1970 Dodge Challenger T/A 420 stroker w/6 Pak 430 HP,
510 lbft torque

[treygriffith]

Did you figure out the door latch problem? I'm going through the same thing. The original outside handle assembly had a crack in the inside aluminum housing frame, so I replaced it. There is still to much travel in the bowden cable to unlatch door mechanism. Me thinks the door latch(latches door to striker) is worn out. Your thoughts

[@ Viv]

I had the same problem (too much slack in the cable), IIRC, my friend zip-tied the cable to a spot inside the door which took up the slack. Now when I pull the handle the door will unlock & open.

[Ed CT]

IIRC, there are grommets at the ends of all cables in the latch system. If any of these grommets are out of their correct position or slot, you'll get slack iin the cable. You may need to remove the inner door panel and re-check the grommet positions. The one at the inside door handle is easily checked, but the ones at the door latch assembly inside the door (big metal cased thing), and at the outer door handle connection also need to be positioned correctly.

[@ Viv]

I also had that problem! But even with that fixed, there was too much slack in the cable.

[Ed CT]

Hi, Viv,

Yes, he said that he replaced the outside handle unit, and the problem seemed to start at that point. So, I'm thinking that it's a re-assembly issue. Although, I'm sure that these parts do indeed wear out to the point that they need replacing or 'stretching' as you did with the tie-wrap. In any case, better to check the assembly for correctness before throwing money or fixes to it.

[treygriffith]

This is simply a mechanical latch wear problem. At 140K mine has seen plenty of opening and closing. The outside door tumbler assembly aluminum frame (mounted inside) are prone to cracks in the housing. When they crack they travel with any movement of the outer door handle and this causes excessive outer handle travel before the Bowden cable is pulled taught. This ss cable activates the door latch from both inner and outer handles. When you zip tie slack out of the cable, this preloads you handle action, although removing the door panel again is in you near future as the stainless Bowden cable will saw through that nylon zip tie in short order. The metal on metal wear in the latch itself simply wears down the cam in the latch. If you put in a new Bowden cable and assemble the outer door handle properly and still move either int/ext handle more than a half inch without engaging initial latch contact you'll have a bigger task ahead or make it someone elses problem.

[treygriffith]

This is simply a mechanical latch wear problem. At 140K mine has seen plenty of opening and closing. The outside door tumbler assembly aluminum frame (mounted inside) are prone to cracks in the housing. When they crack they travel with any movement of the outer door handle and this causes excessive outer handle travel before the Bowden cable is pulled taught. This ss cable activates the door latch from both inner and outer handles. When you zip tie slack out of the cable, this preloads you handle action, although removing the door panel again is in you near future as the stainless Bowden cable will saw through that nylon zip tie in short order. The metal on metal wear in the latch itself simply wears down the cam in the latch. If you put in a new Bowden cable and assemble the outer door handle properly and still move either int/ext handle more than a half inch without engaging initial latch contact you'll have a bigger task ahead or make it someone elses problem.

I might add this accounts for why interior handles are flying off the shelves. When there is excessive travel the plastic interior handles are pulled beyond their fulcrum of strength and snap.