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02-04-2011 09:25 PM #1
need a big alignement after adjusting coilovers?
so I bought a car with coilovers with the intention from the start to raise it up from the lowered position it was in. I took it to my BMW shop and they said I needed to do some sort of a weight adjustment and alignment if they raise it back up. They said it's actually like a half-day process. What's the point of having coilovers that are so easy to adjust if you have to do a massive alignment each time you change them?
Am I being jobbed here or are they just being perfectionists and it should be done?
02-04-2011 11:03 PM #2
The problem with alignment is you can't just look
at your car and tell if you need one. You actually have the car aligned to find out if you need it.
Are you hearing that they have to weigh the car to load specs when they do the alignment? Because that's so.
Seems to me if you change the ride height, you'd best have the car aligned.
Can you explain how the height will be changed with coilovers? Where do you make that adjustment?
In the real world, I'll always choose the factory ride height as I scrape enough driveways, etc, as it is. Lower would kill me watching out for road irregularities.
02-05-2011 07:59 AM #3
Re: The problem with alignment is you can't just look
The adjustment is basically to the height of the spring perch. So it doesn't change the spring height, it just changes where the low point on the spring is. On the fronts the adjustment is about at the bottom third of the strut, I think. I haven't looked at it closely.
I'd want to raise my car by at least an inch. It's that low right now and I don't dare take it in to work because I'm worried about the getting in to the parking garage without scraping the hell out of it.
02-05-2011 01:04 PM #4
Makes sense that that is the way you change the
ride height. I'd get it up as quick as I oould if I were you. That's why when I put on my KONI FSD shocks, I stayed with stock oem springs. Could not find a sport spring that did not lower the car.
My car is stiff enough for the road and handles much better with the KONI shocks.
02-05-2011 02:48 PM #5
Makes sense, ........ if
any change in ride height changes alignment
and the car should be 'weighted' with sand bags
while performing the 4-wheel alignment
150lbs in each front seat
150lbs centered on the back seat
150lbs centered in the trunk
FULL TANK of gas . . . . . . then the alignment
'weighting' the car gives a more accurate,
real loading of the chassis.
not 'weighting' the car gives marginal results for
optimum handling and steering
02-05-2011 03:18 PM #6
02-08-2011 07:54 PM #7
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02-08-2011 09:18 PM #8
02-10-2011 06:56 PM #9
OK these PSS9s are shot... new options?
They are frozen stuck and won't budge... probably have not been moved in 9 years. (Torch used and failed.)
Also 3 are leaking. So, basically I'm thinking I may go to something closer to stock.
What are the suggestions?
Anyone have a low-miles ZHP setup?
Bilstein Sports and sport springs?
How do they compare?
Anything I would need to get to return back to stock aside from Shock/Struts and springs?
Figure I'll get Z3 RSM plates and new RSMs while I'm at it.
02-11-2011 10:37 AM #10
02-13-2011 06:31 PM #11
Planning on getting the Z3 reinforcement plates
I have a Strut tower bar that covers the whole front strut tops, so I wonder if the front tower reinforcement plates are necessary. I figure that tower plate on the strut bar is doing the same thing.
I also went and picked up the incredible deal on the ZHP retrofit kit. So I'm going to go with ZHP shocks and struts, I now need to find some good springs to match.
For those not aware... check out this kit...
BMW part number 33500429577
This Genuine BMW performance suspension kit includes:
1 - left front control arm - ZHP - 31122282121
1 - right front control arm - ZHP - 3112228212
2 - locking nuts - 32216769539
4 - locking nuts - 31106774714
1 - left front sport shock - 31312282459
1 - right front sport shock - 31312282460
2 - front bump stops - 31306757046
6 - locking nuts - 31316769731
1 - front sway bar / swaybar - 23.5mm - 31356757168
2 - sway bar bushings - 23.5mm - 33556751269
2 - hex nuts - 33306760587
8 - locking collar nuts - 07119904295
2 - rear sport shocks - 33522282461
2 - rear shock bump stop - 33506757047
2 - locking nut - 33521137360
$450 at Tischer... WOW!
02-25-2011 12:16 AM #12
I don't think the strut tower bar completely
obviates the need for the tower plates. The ramming effect you are trying to isolate the towers from comes from underneath, not above. So just because you have a cap over the top of the towers, does not protect them from below. And then you are adding stiffer shocks with the listed kit, so the recommendation increases.
You're investing lots in this car with sport shocks all around plus thicker sway bars and HD control arms. And then you'll pay for labor if you're not mechanically inclined. Don't over-invest for a used car.
But if you do go thru with the above additions, do investigate the Powerflex Control Arm Bushings. They are fantastic with no drawbacks except the slightly higher price. With new control arms, you will be buying new CAB's.
And consider some aftermarket rear shock mounts to insure against failure. Check out Turner Motorsports.
Oh, and one more thought; consider the sport springs that come with the e46 sport suspension. Don't drop the ride height of your car if you want to avoid scraping hassle.
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