+ Reply to Thread
Page 3 of 5 FirstFirst 1 2 3 4 5 LastLast
Results 41 to 60 of 85
  1. #41
    Registered Member
    Location
    Conifer, CO, United States
    Member No: 147773 dandydog is an unknown quantity at this point dandydog's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    188
    Rep Power
    0


    Yes | No
    Hey, thanks for all the work, GT.
    And I appreciate your suggestions about keeping our communications clear: I'll do the work this weekend, and report back in an unequivocal manner.
    Hope you're doing something fun! - take care.
    Neil
    Reply With Quote Reply With Quote 66.87.5.74


  2. #42
    Registered Member
    Location
    Conifer, CO, United States
    Member No: 147773 dandydog is an unknown quantity at this point dandydog's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    188
    Rep Power
    0


    Yes | No

    Test results

    Okay, my tests showed no surprises, but yielded a little interesting information:
    1) When cranked for about 30 seconds, the engine did not start. (Fuel pressure: ~ 40 psi.)
    2) Immediately afterwards, the plugs were dry.
    3) Grounding pins 16 and 17 (with bridge) caused injectors to click, and the fuel pressure to drop
    (as you'd expect.)
    3A) Plugs still appear dry (??!)
    4) The plugs-on-valve-cover test yielded sparks strong enough to see in bright sunlight.
    4A) Fuel pressure leaks down quite slowly (~10 psi in 15-20 minutes.) (This came as a surprise to me because, back when the car was running, it exhibited symptoms of leaking injectors.)

    Now for your tests, GT:
    1) Pin 27: 0 with ignition off, ~12 volts with key on.
    2) Pin 37: 0 " , 0 " (!)
    Pin 37 (with 36-2 bridge, per Bentley): ~12 volts.
    3) Pin 18: ~12 volts at all times.
    4) Pins 15 and 17:
    Pin 15: 0 with ignition off, ~12 volts with key on.
    Pin 16: 0 " , 0 " , ~12 volts with 36-2 bridge.
    Pin 17: 0 " , 0 " , " .
    5) Pins 47 and 48: 0 (? sporadic readings) volts when engine is cranked; 517 ohms resistance.
    6) Pin 45: Multi-meter reading is 3.33 at 20k ohm setting.
    WHAT ground under the diagnostic connector??

    Nothing's really jumping out at me here, and I'm getting tired and discouraged. (I've been doing a batch of other - and far more rewarding - work while I putz with the Bimmer.) Tomorrow I'll try the noid light and some additional tests from the Bentley.
    What the HELL is going on with this car???
    Neil
    Reply With Quote Reply With Quote 66.87.4.91

  3. #43
    Registered Member
    Location
    Conifer, CO, United States
    Member No: 147773 dandydog is an unknown quantity at this point dandydog's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    188
    Rep Power
    0


    Yes | No
    Okay: I've got a super-cheap Bosch noid light on order. The price sort of supports my belief that a 12-volt test light will suffice, but now I'll have an honest-to-God "noid light" in my tool box, and when somebody asks, " Have you checked the injectors with a noid light?", I'll be able say Yeah. (Because we all know this stuff is gonna happen again, down the road.)

    But: If this thing really is just a bulb with two leads that plug into the injector connector, can somebody explain why I've got battery voltage at BOTH pins of the connector with the ignition turned on? Aren't the injectors ground-controlled through the ECU? The only way the system could operate with those readings is if one of the wires to each injector carries battery voltage whenever the ignition is on, and the other lead is switched from battery voltage to ground when the ECU wants that injector to fire. That doesn't make much sense to me.
    Neil
    Last edited by dandydog; 04-10-2011 at 07:00 PM.
    Reply With Quote Reply With Quote 66.87.11.136

  4. #44
    Registered Member
    Location
    BFE, BFE, United States
    Member No: 103164 GeezTech is an unknown quantity at this point GeezTech's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Posts
    10,978
    Rep Power
    0


    Yes | No
    Just got back but here are some quick observations:
    1) Pin 27: 0 with ignition off, ~12 volts with key on. This is good
    2) Pin 37: 0 " , 0 " (!) This is NOT good, also try while cranking but if I remember correctly it should have 12 volts with the key on. Does the check engine light come on when they key is on but the engine is off? Just to be clear, your turning to the second position where all the dash lights are on? If the light doesn't come on then this could be going the right direction, have you tried a "known good" main relay?

    Pin 37 (with 36-2 bridge, per Bentley): ~12 volts.Will the engine start with it bridged?
    3) Pin 18: ~12 volts at all times. This is good
    4) Pins 15 and 17:
    Pin 15: 0 with ignition off, ~12 volts with key on. Oops typo, should have been pin 16, see below
    Pin 16: 0 " , 0 " , ~12 volts with 36-2 bridge.
    Pin 17: 0 " , 0 " , " . This isnt good for pins 16 and 17 as all the injectors share the same power supply wire from the main relay, this wire also supplies the idle valve, does it humm with the key on? With jumping pin 36 to 2 you are giving the main relay its own ground so double check some of the readings while cranking the engine.

    5) Pins 47 and 48: 0 (? sporadic readings) volts when engine is cranked; 517 ohms resistance.It may not be real smooth as the sensor changes voltage as the teeth of the balancer pass by it and you will notice there are gaps in the teeth, so it may be jumpy but possibly read between 1 - 3 volts, does it?
    6) Pin 45: Multi-meter reading is 3.33 at 20k ohm setting. Hmmm, this sounds on the high side but if you are real cold then this maybe Ok, I am used to 60 degrees being "cold".
    WHAT ground under the diagnostic connector?? Crap, I may be thinking of a coupe as I think the convertibles had theirs moved to the right shock tower, sorry.
    “Don't argue with idiots, they'll drag you down to their level and beat you with experience.”

    Find the problem first! Dont spend $$$$$ on parts you may not need.

    Dont be offended if I ask stupid questions, sometimes stupid fixes it.

    '87 325is The best ever
    '69 1600 My worst nightmare
    ALUMINUM BUMPER APPRECIATION ASSOCIATION (ABAA)
    Membership ID (00302)
    Joined September 14, 2005

    The secret to my success
    Reply With Quote Reply With Quote 72.132.167.81

  5. #45
    Registered Member
    Location
    BFE, BFE, United States
    Member No: 103164 GeezTech is an unknown quantity at this point GeezTech's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Posts
    10,978
    Rep Power
    0


    Yes | No
    Quote Originally Posted by dandydog View Post
    But: If this thing really is just a bulb with two leads that plug into the injector connector, can somebody explain why I've got battery voltage at BOTH pins of the connector with the ignition turned on? Aren't the injectors ground-controlled through the ECU?
    The injectors aren't being grounded yet by the DME or they would be spraying fuel, since they aren't grounded you will see 12 volts on each pin since there is no load on the circuit, make sense?
    “Don't argue with idiots, they'll drag you down to their level and beat you with experience.”

    Find the problem first! Dont spend $$$$$ on parts you may not need.

    Dont be offended if I ask stupid questions, sometimes stupid fixes it.

    '87 325is The best ever
    '69 1600 My worst nightmare
    ALUMINUM BUMPER APPRECIATION ASSOCIATION (ABAA)
    Membership ID (00302)
    Joined September 14, 2005

    The secret to my success
    Reply With Quote Reply With Quote 72.132.167.81

  6. #46
    Registered Member
    Location
    Conifer, CO, United States
    Member No: 147773 dandydog is an unknown quantity at this point dandydog's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    188
    Rep Power
    0


    Yes | No
    Quote Originally Posted by GeezTech View Post
    The injectors aren't being grounded yet by the DME or they would be spraying fuel, since they aren't grounded you will see 12 volts on each pin since there is no load on the circuit, make sense?
    Uh . . . no. But (as one of my idols would say), "That's not important right now . . ." What I'm hearing is: Those readings are normal, and therefore inconsequential (in the context of our struggle.)
    I'm going to wait until that noid light gets here (should be tomorrow or Thursday) to do more checking. I'm having some doubts about my ability to tell if the plugs are wet or dry in a fuel-injected, computer-controlled engine (in my previous mechanical life as a 265-in Chevy owner, when the plugs were getting hosed down by a pair of 4-barrel Holleys, you KNEW); maybe the noid light, like the fuel pressure gauge, is a necessary tool-box item now.
    Neil
    Reply With Quote Reply With Quote 66.87.1.172

  7. #47
    Registered Member
    Location
    BFE, BFE, United States
    Member No: 103164 GeezTech is an unknown quantity at this point GeezTech's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Posts
    10,978
    Rep Power
    0


    Yes | No
    I just had a thought, since you "probably" have the DME connector off to check the pins you wont have power at Pin 37 because the DME has to ground the relay, DOH! bad on my part.
    Ideally you need to remove the back cover of the connector and back probe the corresponding wires with the connector on the DME, damn I hate when I overlook crap like that, sorry.
    “Don't argue with idiots, they'll drag you down to their level and beat you with experience.”

    Find the problem first! Dont spend $$$$$ on parts you may not need.

    Dont be offended if I ask stupid questions, sometimes stupid fixes it.

    '87 325is The best ever
    '69 1600 My worst nightmare
    ALUMINUM BUMPER APPRECIATION ASSOCIATION (ABAA)
    Membership ID (00302)
    Joined September 14, 2005

    The secret to my success
    Reply With Quote Reply With Quote 72.132.167.81

  8. #48
    Registered Member
    Location
    Conifer, CO, United States
    Member No: 147773 dandydog is an unknown quantity at this point dandydog's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    188
    Rep Power
    0


    Yes | No
    No problem, GT - You still have my complete confidence (and my appreciation for all your help.) Kind of makes up for that applying-two-charts-to-the-same-ECU blunder that I made, too.
    Reply With Quote Reply With Quote 66.87.8.19

  9. #49
    Registered Member
    Location
    Conifer, CO, United States
    Member No: 147773 dandydog is an unknown quantity at this point dandydog's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    188
    Rep Power
    0


    Yes | No

    Everybody oughta have a noid light.

    They're available on eBay (among the hundred-dollar kits with multiple connectors and cool plastic cases) for $2.99. A must for every erstwhile mechanic's toolbox.
    With that little bit of hypocrisy out of my system, let's proceed with an update:
    The noid light revealed that the injectors are, indeed, firing.
    In fact, you can get a pretty good light show going in a dark garage by hooking up the noid light to an injector connector and laying 6 spare plugs (plugged into the six secondary leads) on the valve cover: There's a lot of sparking (all sequential) and flashing but, when you put all the wires back where they're supposed to be, STILL NO START.
    A couple of other observations:
    1) Disconnecting the position sensor (at the connector near the diagnostic fitting) kills all spark, both to the plugs and to the injectors. (Does this mean that the sensor is good? [I mean, along with the 540 ohms test.])
    2) Disconnecting the other connector at that location (the #6-cylinder sensor?) didn't do anything - both the noid light and the plugs still sparked. (Perhaps a little more rapidly?) Seems weird.
    3) GT's 'proof of life' test still works: With the fuel pump relay pulled, the engine fires on starter fluid (with either ECU), and runs briefly and raggedly. With the relay back in place, however, it won't start, even with starter fluid.)
    I'm running out of things I can even THINK of that might be wrong.
    Neil
    Reply With Quote Reply With Quote 66.87.0.201

  10. #50
    Registered Member
    Location
    BFE, BFE, United States
    Member No: 103164 GeezTech is an unknown quantity at this point GeezTech's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Posts
    10,978
    Rep Power
    0


    Yes | No
    Maybe we need to baselime this thing and go to the basics:
    Valve adjustment correct?
    With the valve cover removed I would check to make sure the cam is timed correctly to the crank.
    Make sure the distributor rotor adapter is on tight and either in its groove or on the pin, memory not well on which it has.
    You did mention that the cap was cracked and you replaced it, not trying to be an arse but make sure the leads are on the correct cylinders. A OEM cap is numbered by each post for the respective cylinder it goes to. I believe it goes from top to bottom, 2,4,6,coil,1,5,3.
    This too wierd for it to be possible for something very simple.
    “Don't argue with idiots, they'll drag you down to their level and beat you with experience.”

    Find the problem first! Dont spend $$$$$ on parts you may not need.

    Dont be offended if I ask stupid questions, sometimes stupid fixes it.

    '87 325is The best ever
    '69 1600 My worst nightmare
    ALUMINUM BUMPER APPRECIATION ASSOCIATION (ABAA)
    Membership ID (00302)
    Joined September 14, 2005

    The secret to my success
    Reply With Quote Reply With Quote 72.132.167.81

  11. #51
    Registered Member
    Location
    Conifer, CO, United States
    Member No: 147773 dandydog is an unknown quantity at this point dandydog's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    188
    Rep Power
    0


    Yes | No
    Yeah, that was my thinking, too: As soon as it warms up again (it snowed last night, about 3"), I'm going to take off the cap and rotor again, and I'll remove the valve cover for you, too. But: Don't I need to pull the front cover to verify the timing? (The marks I remember from the last belt replacement were on the cam and crank sprockets.)
    (Glad to hear from you again. Please don't leave me alone with this brutal vehicle.)
    Neil
    Reply With Quote Reply With Quote 66.87.4.71

  12. #52
    Registered Member
    Location
    BFE, BFE, United States
    Member No: 103164 GeezTech is an unknown quantity at this point GeezTech's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Posts
    10,978
    Rep Power
    0


    Yes | No
    Yes and no on the upper cover. If you have the valve cover off you can set #1 up on TDC as if you are adjusting the valves (#6 on overlap) then check against the mark on the harmonic balancer. It should be close but if too hard to tell then it may be best to remove the upper cover and check against the mark on the upper pulley and line on the cylinder head.
    Dont worry, I'm here to the end and if all else fails I will be in Denver July 3rd thropugh 9th.
    “Don't argue with idiots, they'll drag you down to their level and beat you with experience.”

    Find the problem first! Dont spend $$$$$ on parts you may not need.

    Dont be offended if I ask stupid questions, sometimes stupid fixes it.

    '87 325is The best ever
    '69 1600 My worst nightmare
    ALUMINUM BUMPER APPRECIATION ASSOCIATION (ABAA)
    Membership ID (00302)
    Joined September 14, 2005

    The secret to my success
    Reply With Quote Reply With Quote 72.132.167.81

  13. #53
    Registered Member
    Location
    Conifer, CO, United States
    Member No: 147773 dandydog is an unknown quantity at this point dandydog's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    188
    Rep Power
    0


    Yes | No
    Is that the Nationals weekend? We GOTTA get together - DAMN, do I owe you a meal!
    Reply With Quote Reply With Quote 66.87.5.49

  14. #54
    Registered Member
    Location
    Conifer, CO, United States
    Member No: 147773 dandydog is an unknown quantity at this point dandydog's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    188
    Rep Power
    0


    Yes | No

    I haven't given up, GT . . .

    . . . it's been snowing nearly every night, with daytime temps in the 40's and low 50's. Plus, there's so much wind that I'm not big on taking off the covers - I'll wait 'til this quiets down. (I'm not complaining, though: I hope you guys are all safe and well, and that your homes still have their roofs on.)
    Neil
    Reply With Quote Reply With Quote 66.87.4.94

  15. #55
    Registered Member
    Location
    BFE, BFE, United States
    Member No: 103164 GeezTech is an unknown quantity at this point GeezTech's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Posts
    10,978
    Rep Power
    0


    Yes | No
    Quote Originally Posted by dandydog View Post
    Is that the Nationals weekend? We GOTTA get together - DAMN, do I owe you a meal!
    Sort of, it is a national type of event for Jr Dragsters, July 4th through the 9th at bandimere in Morrision, is that near you at all?
    It is ours sons last year of competing (they age out at 18) and we are planning on going unless gas prices go further through the roof by the summer.
    “Don't argue with idiots, they'll drag you down to their level and beat you with experience.”

    Find the problem first! Dont spend $$$$$ on parts you may not need.

    Dont be offended if I ask stupid questions, sometimes stupid fixes it.

    '87 325is The best ever
    '69 1600 My worst nightmare
    ALUMINUM BUMPER APPRECIATION ASSOCIATION (ABAA)
    Membership ID (00302)
    Joined September 14, 2005

    The secret to my success
    Reply With Quote Reply With Quote 72.132.167.81

  16. #56
    Registered Member
    Location
    Conifer, CO, United States
    Member No: 147773 dandydog is an unknown quantity at this point dandydog's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    188
    Rep Power
    0


    Yes | No

    Back to work on this stupid problem.

    After about a month of crappy weather and the high-school graduation of our youngest, with the attendant family gathering (which was a hell of a lot of fun), I've got a truly beautiful day and nothing much to do with it, so I'm going back to work on the Bimmer.
    We left off with proof of spark (visible, sequential ignition of all 6 plugs hooked up and lying on the valve cover) and a strong implication of the availability of fuel (noid light flashing when hooked up to #1 injector as the engine is turned by the starter motor.) GT had suggested that I take another look at the distributor cap and rotor, which I've done (they both have no apparent defects), and that I check the timing marks, which I'm gonna do this afternoon. (Somebody else may be able to get a look down into the 3" gap between the radiator and the front of the motor, but I can't see a damn thing, and I can't even get the top cam-belt cover off; I'm gonna have to pull the hood and the radiator.) More later.
    [15 minutes later (okay, maybe half an hour: but I was cleaning the parts as I took them off)]: I wish I'd done this earlier - it would have saved a lot of peering and straining and cut knuckles. The hood's off and the radiator is out; the top cover is off (I'd forgotten the alternator-brace bolt), revealing no untoward leakage or other signs of mechanical distress: Everything is just as it should be down there.
    Oh, and the timing is just where I left it: Spot on, both the O/T mark on the crank and the marks on the harmonic balancer and the head.
    The only thing that shows signs of wear (the insulation is cracked, and the wire [cable?] is fully exposed in places) is the lead that runs from under the intake manifold all the way down towards the transmission. This thing's always been worn, though, so I don't think it's a cause of the current problem. I'll find out what the wire is and deal with it.
    Again, more later.
    The wire seems to lead to the oil pan, right below the filter: Low-oil sensor?
    I really like the access and visibility I've got under these circumstances. Anybody have any objections to my trying to fire it up like this? (I'll loosen the alternator belt to disconnect the water pump from the drive system, and I'll re-install the distributor cap and the valve cover and ignition wires.) Whaddaya think?
    Later: Tried it; didn't work. Swapped ECUs; nothing there, either.
    This is really getting old.
    Last edited by dandydog; 05-29-2011 at 08:59 PM.
    Reply With Quote Reply With Quote 66.87.8.202

  17. #57
    Registered Member
    Location
    Conifer, CO, United States
    Member No: 147773 dandydog is an unknown quantity at this point dandydog's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    188
    Rep Power
    0


    Yes | No

    Good news and bad news.

    The good news is that my faithful TR-4 fired right up, the way it always does after hibernating through the winter (the solid axle makes it a real adventure to drive when the road gets slippery, but if the snow's deeper'n about 8 inches, you get high-centered real quick.) Now I've got something that's fun to ride around in, chasing BMW parts. (Fun to work on, too: You can pump gas MANUALLY with a little lever on the Lucas fuel pump [conveniently located in the engine compartment]; you can SEE the gas flow to the Weber float bowls through the clear neoprene gas line; and a knurled knob at the base of the distributor gives you control of 10-15∘of ignition timing, without having to remove anything at all.)

    The bad news is that I haven't got a lot of ideas about what I need to try next on the BMW. Is it possible that this wonderful car is never gonna run again, just because I CAN'T GET IT STARTED???

    GT: Where are you, man? Is Jim Levie still around? HAAAAALLLPP!!!!!
    Reply With Quote Reply With Quote 66.87.4.220

  18. #58
    Registered Member
    Location
    BFE, BFE, United States
    Member No: 103164 GeezTech is an unknown quantity at this point GeezTech's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Posts
    10,978
    Rep Power
    0


    Yes | No
    Hey!
    I haven't been checking as often since the post hasn't been updated but I have to say I am seriously puzzled over this and at this point it is one of those things I have to actually get my hands on and see it for myself but we have covered just about evrything.
    It just doesn't make sense, it fires on starter fluid, you have fuel pressure, you have spark, you have clicking injectors, THIS SHOULD START!. :)
    Do you have a test air flow meter or maybe you can borrow one? DONT run out and buy one as I dont know if that is the problem, the flap isn't sticking, right?
    Has it warmed up some by now? And if so I take it there are no changes?
    Hmm hmmm hmm, how far from Denver are you as it looks like this problem will make it to July.
    We are heading north afterwards and we will be passing through Fort Collins, is that near you?
    If time permits and my wife isn't too cranky I could try to swing by and give it a shot.
    If this site can do PM's then shoot me some info as I think my generic e-mail is down from non-use.
    “Don't argue with idiots, they'll drag you down to their level and beat you with experience.”

    Find the problem first! Dont spend $$$$$ on parts you may not need.

    Dont be offended if I ask stupid questions, sometimes stupid fixes it.

    '87 325is The best ever
    '69 1600 My worst nightmare
    ALUMINUM BUMPER APPRECIATION ASSOCIATION (ABAA)
    Membership ID (00302)
    Joined September 14, 2005

    The secret to my success
    Reply With Quote Reply With Quote 72.132.167.81

  19. #59
    Registered Member
    Location
    Conifer, CO, United States
    Member No: 147773 dandydog is an unknown quantity at this point dandydog's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    188
    Rep Power
    0


    Yes | No

    Hi ho, Hi ho . . .

    . . . it's back to work we go, after getting REALLY lucky with a very sick dog: Henry's gonna make it, against the odds, so I've got some spare time again.
    I'm going to test for the (slight) possibility that the injectors are (all) blocked up somehow (which would let the noid light flash, but not deliver gas to the cylinders.)
    A couple of observations:
    1) I am really, REALLY sick of this problem.
    2) I don't actually expect this test to prove anything: I mean, ALL of the injectors getting blocked at the same time? C'mon.
    3) Because I've been having a hard time distinguishing between a wet plug and a dry one, I'm going to hook the noid light up to the #1 injector lead (giving me one guaranteed dry plug), crank the motor for 30 seconds, then pull the plugs and compare the rest to #1.
    More later.

    HEY, I MIGHT HAVE SOMETHING HERE!!!
    The actual test yielded about what I expected: all the plugs (with the possible exception of #4) were wet. BUT: Since I was disabling #1 anyway, I put a spare plug into the lead to that cylinder and set it on the valve cover next to the noid light. They both flashed while I was cranking the engine, but - and it took me about 15 minutes to realize the possible importance of what I'd seen - the plug sparked every second or so (about what I would expect), BUT THE NOID LIGHT WAS FLASHING LIKE A STROBE - way faster than the plug was firing. (Maybe 6 times as fast???)
    This observation would be consistent with the supposition that a short from the high-voltage timing sensor fried some part of the ECU or the wiring to the injectors (making all 6 of them fire every time any one of them is supposed to open?), and thereby flooding the engine every time I try to start it.
    Also [a little later]: Flooring the gas pedal while I'm cranking the engine doesn't do anything to the frequency with which the noid light is flashing. Isn't flooring the gas supposed to shut all the injectors down? Shouldn't the noid light stop flashing entirely with the pedal to the metal?
    (Somebody could really help, here, by trying the same test on a running 325. If my assumptions are correct, the noid light ought to fire at the same frequency as the plug for that cylinder, but with a slight [probably indiscernible] lead time.)
    Okay, GT, I need some technical expertise: Is this really an abnormality? It's the ECU that controls the firing of the injectors, isn't it? But, since switching out the ECU with an (unproven) spare doesn't change the situation (I tried it), could the problem be in the wiring? Or: Could the replacement timing sensor somehow be faulty? (It has tested [repeatedly: I've always had my doubts about the little bastard] at around 540 ohms, but could it somehow still be screwed up?)
    Can we actually be getting somewhere???
    Neil

    YESSSSS!!
    After I wrote that plea for help from other 325 owners, I thought, "Or any other fuel injected car, for that matter." And I went out and removed all the connectors on our Element's FI system, plugged in the noid light and cranked the engine: The light fires at about spark-plug frequency, WAY slower than the Bimmer!
    I think I've FINALLY located the problem: Now, how to fix it? GT?
    Last edited by dandydog; 06-19-2011 at 05:47 PM.
    Reply With Quote Reply With Quote 66.87.11.114

  20. #60
    Registered Member
    Location
    BFE, BFE, United States
    Member No: 103164 GeezTech is an unknown quantity at this point GeezTech's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Posts
    10,978
    Rep Power
    0


    Yes | No
    Hmmmmm, very strange.

    Refresh my crappy memory as I am too lazy to go through the posts, where did you buy the replacement crank sensor at??

    Your plugs are wet and you have spark so this should start, I know, duh! But "maybe" it is flooding as you say??

    Anyway, here is something else you can try. Remove and clean all the spark plugs with brake spray (eye protection here) and blow dry with compressed air if you have a compressor (more eye protection). A small wire brush across the electrode will help too. Let them set out all night. If it has been warming up lately maybe install them at the warmest part of the day and when you try to fire the engine hold the gas pedal to about half throttle to introduce more air to lean out the mixture and see if it will now fire and run. You could even try using a hair dryer to warm up the engine sensor for the fuel mixture (blue or white plug), this will make it "think" the engine is warm and lean out the initial mixture or at least get it off of sequencial injection at start up to help avoid spraying more fuel.

    If all this fails to yield anything I guess the last thing to do would be to remove the fuel rail with the injectors, hook them all back up while laying them on the valve cover (NO RAW FUEL PRESENT!) and then crank the engine to see if they actually spray and if so see if they seem to spray too much.
    “Don't argue with idiots, they'll drag you down to their level and beat you with experience.”

    Find the problem first! Dont spend $$$$$ on parts you may not need.

    Dont be offended if I ask stupid questions, sometimes stupid fixes it.

    '87 325is The best ever
    '69 1600 My worst nightmare
    ALUMINUM BUMPER APPRECIATION ASSOCIATION (ABAA)
    Membership ID (00302)
    Joined September 14, 2005

    The secret to my success
    Reply With Quote Reply With Quote 72.132.167.81

+ Reply to Thread
Page 3 of 5 FirstFirst 1 2 3 4 5 LastLast


Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

     

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may post new threads
  • You may post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
1e2 Forum