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  1. #81
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    Great!
    Buuuttt you are saying have over 40 lbs of fuel pressure? It should be a 2.5 bar system which puts it around 35 to 38 lbs with the regulator acuum line disconnected. How far over is it the 40 lbs?
    I hate to think this is coming back to a "possible" fuel pressure regulator, didn't you do this last year? If so was it new, used or aftermarket?
    “Don't argue with idiots, they'll drag you down to their level and beat you with experience.”

    Find the problem first! Dont spend $$$$$ on parts you may not need.

    Dont be offended if I ask stupid questions, sometimes stupid fixes it.

    '87 325is The best ever
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  2. #82
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    Member No: 147773 dandydog is an unknown quantity at this point dandydog's Avatar
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    Wrap-Up

    I generally like to close out these little interludes with a report on what I've learned, for the archive, and a hindsight-enhanced look at what I could have done to get the whole deal over with faster.
    This time, though, I'm at something of a loss: aside from the #3/#1 blunder, there's not a lot I would have done differently, and - full disclosure, here - I'm not entirely certain that I actually fixed anything. (The wires from the position sensor came off in my well-intentioned helper's hand, at the outset, so replacing that item was sort of a necessity; the replacement part in currently installed in the car, so its used e-Bay provenance wasn't part of the problem. The distributor cap DID have a crack, and I've [briefly] considered re-installing the damaged part to see if it was functional [maybe later.] The corroded wiring at the #1 FI connector was the most serious fault I uncovered, but repairing it didn't immediately result in the kind of cause-and-effect renewal that you like to see in these cases.)

    It's hard for me to see how the fuel pressure regulator could be a part of the problem, GT: It has consistently yielded 41-42 psi readings, and was purchased (new) a year ago. It's still in the car, and engine is now starting on demand, without removing the fuel pump relay. (The ECU sort of re-booting itself?)

    To me, the best thing to come out of this experience (aside from having the Bimmer back) is the three-step diagnostic trick (create fuel pressure, remove the fuel pump relay, crank the engine): If it starts and runs for a bit, the problem is almost certainly in the FI system.

    So: A sort of disappointingly inconclusive resolution, but - What the hey - a hell of an improvement.

    See y'all next year!
    Neil
    Last edited by dandydog; 06-29-2011 at 01:13 PM.
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  3. #83
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    The 40-42 is close enough, it may just be the gauge. It is possible the plugs may hae still been a little fuel fowled and your relay trick helped let it run long enough for the engine to heat up and clean the plugs some once driven, I will say your #1 injector wire was the culprit.
    We are in Richfield,UT tonight, in Denver tomorrow night. Check your PM's and give me a ring this weekend.
    Good job on seeing this through and getting it fixed.
    “Don't argue with idiots, they'll drag you down to their level and beat you with experience.”

    Find the problem first! Dont spend $$$$$ on parts you may not need.

    Dont be offended if I ask stupid questions, sometimes stupid fixes it.

    '87 325is The best ever
    '69 1600 My worst nightmare
    ALUMINUM BUMPER APPRECIATION ASSOCIATION (ABAA)
    Membership ID (00302)
    Joined September 14, 2005

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  4. #84
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    On this one, I think I place a higher value on the trick that lets me get AROUND the starting problem than on the solution itself: The fuel-pump-relay thing really works, but the FI-harness-corrosion was never absolutely PROVEN to be the cause of the problem.

    One reason for my reluctance to accept the possibility that I've found a cure: The car is running EXACTLY the way it was before, meaning that it catches instantly if the engine is restarted within, say, two minutes of having been run, but requires 5+ seconds of cranking if it's been sitting for longer than that. I'd though that that was caused by old, leaky injectors, and was getting around to replacing them, but having a fuel pressure gauge in the system for so long showed a VERY slow (several hours) leak-down rate.

    I'm still planning to get around to replacing the injectors.

    And I'm planning to come down tomorrow, pick up a pit pass, and give you a call. BUT: This is your vacation - any discussion of my car is forbidden!
    See you soon -
    Neil
    Last edited by dandydog; 07-01-2011 at 12:38 PM.
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  5. #85
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    Final Update (for the archive)

    This is the first winter in a very long while that I haven't had any cold-start problems with the BMW, so I'm going to jump to a few conclusions and leave them for the archive, in case anyone else has similar problems.
    First: It was the corroded FI lead that did it. (In the engine compartment; with increased resistance.) I think that BMW tacitly acknowledged this problem by changing the FI wiring in the next model year to eliminate the wires outside the plastic harness-bar; in any event, cutting out the corroded length of wiring at the #1 connector and patching in a new piece has completely eliminated the cold-start problem. (We still live at 8500', and have already had a couple of sub-zero nights [things used to get hinky below 20 degrees], so the contributing factors haven't changed.)
    Second: The warm-restart problem is probably leaky injectors. I've gotten a new set, had them cleaned and balanced and am waiting for warmer weather (and a new [used] FI wiring harness) to replace the FI system. If that clears up the other part of the problem, I'll update this record.
    I travel a lot on business and consequently drive a lot of much newer rental cars, but I'm always happy to get home to my nearly-25-year-old 325. Thanks again for your interest and all the help (especially Geez Tech).
    Neil
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