530 freeze oil dip stick oil separator

[kark]

My 530 i stalled out today, started missing and then smoking like it was burning oil. I thought maybe a momentary ovre rich condition, but oil smoke smog began to billow out the back, looked for a pull over spot and then lost power. Engine would not turn over, like suddenly lack of battery power? Busy street, so called quick for tow. Oil drops out of exhaust pipe, very very scarey.

Local mechamic that towed it indicated it was a common problem to this model, which is a 2004 530i 4 dr sedan auto 6 spd. Mech just called back indicating this s a common BMW 530i issue, called it first frozen dipstick (is that me?) phenomena, where moisture freezes in dipsrick, apparently no other vents work right, oil filles cylinder through ? not sure, maybe head gasket?

He said it is about 14 parts, initially $1100 for parts and about same for labor, 10 hours at $110/hr.

I searched for something like this on this e60 site, found nothing. Any ideas?

[kark]

Local mech. from Tow shop (it is Sunday and about 30 degrees in Minnesota) noted that the tech bulletin he was reading indicated that it is usually dip stick tube that freezes and cylinder filled with oil. This was first indication of this on my car. It is a 2004 530i with about 60K miles, this is my second year of ownership on it. No smoke ever before. H eindicated that new parts would include a dipstick heater, intake manifold heater, plugs,etc. I have not checked if it was driveable, but when this happened, car stalled, and would not turn over again.

Any ideas? I have the service manual and do much of my own work, but also have towing insurance just for this type incident.
Thanks for any suggestions.

2004 530i auto,

[JimLev]

I have heard of this problem before.

[edjack]

the moisture in the oil that freezes. The moisture gets in the oil due to short, low-speed trips.

There is a funnel-shaped device in the front of the engine which separates the liquid oil from the fumes, and sends it down the dipstick tube to the oil pan.

I've not heard of heated components; only a setup that is insulated. The problem with the six is that, apparently, the components are in a place that doesn't get a lot of engine heat. On the V8, the separator is actually inside the engine.

If you are a DIYer, the job can be done, but it is not a simple one.
Ed in San Jose. BMW CCA member since 1987 (Nr. 62319). Golden Gate Chapter. '97 540i 6 speed. Build Date 3/97. Aspensilber over Aubergine leather.

[kark]

Thanks for the input. I wonder if BMW has a list or bulletin to identify the usual suspects that should be changed? Plugs,do O2 sensors get hot enough to burn off any film that may have worked through?

Thanks for any other inputs.

[JimLev]

Get the insulated hoses.
All of these parts are under the intake manifold. Some have replaced them without removing the manifold.

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...94&hg=11&fg=15

[kark]

Thanks much for the help: I do much of my own work, the BMWCCA card helps w/ discounts.

[SteveGK]

CCV parts are the one's he showed you, I got mine at the dealer about $250 for all hoses and new valve. All should be insulated including the CCV Valve. I have not heard anything about heated parts to replace. I have an 03 530i mine was smoking at atart up and sometimes while driving. When the system clogs up it sucks oil into the intake and that 's what caused the smoke, you must have got a lot of oil into the cylinders and that's why Jim said to drain the oil out by taking the plugs out. buy all new hoses and the CCV valve, believe me all the hoses are full of the creamy gunk that's plugging it up.

http://blog.bavauto.com/bmw-e46/bmw-m54-6-cylinder-crankcase-ventilation-pcv-diy-325i-328i-330i-525i-530i

Here is the blog that will show you what you have to do. It took me 10 hours the first time with experience it would go a lot faster. Tip, it's a tight fit to get the new stuff in with the insulation, you have to work it in there. I did it without taking the intake off like the blog will show you. All the old parts will be brittle so when you take it out just pull and break the hoses. The one hose I had trouble with was the front one that goes from the top of the head to the valve with a s curve in it, work it through the intake and it will snap on to the valve when you get the valve in place. I would do that one first. hope this helps post back if you have questions