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  1. #1
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    Repair advice

    Going to replace CCV system and perhaps vanos seals when weather becomes warmer. Anyone have advice as to what else to replace while I have the thing ripped apart. Already replaced water pump and thermostat.
    325Xi. 04, 74k


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    At your car's age, all rubber intake boots

    are suspect, and relatively cheap. Going to consider them?
    Assume you did radiator hoses with the pump?
    Of course you'll do a new valve cover gasket with your vanos work.
    Which vanos method will your choose? Buy the gaskets, or swap for a rebuilt unit from http://www.drvanos.com/?

  3. #3
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    Re: At your car's age, all rubber intake boots

    are suspect, and relatively cheap. Going to consider them?
    Will do
    Assume you did radiator hoses with the pump?
    yup
    Of course you'll do a new valve cover gasket with your vanos work.
    yup
    Which vanos method will your choose? Buy the gaskets, or swap for a rebuilt unit from http://www.drvanos.com/?
    gaskets

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    Member No: 19448 dembooks is an unknown quantity at this point dembooks's Avatar
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    ...crankcase venting parts

    get the set of crankcase vent valve, hoses,
    and other parts related to the 'repair' from
    your BMW parts counter. They'll print out
    a copy of the bulletin for you if you ask.
    If that system goes any further you risk
    blockage from the years of accumulated
    grunge, carbon, traped moisture which can
    cause cracked cam cover, blown-out cam cover
    gasket, ingestion of motor oil into the intake manifold
    causing the motor to hydro-lock!

    now if you never drive in freezing temps?
    forget all that. Warm climate cars do not suffer
    that death

  5. #5
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    Yes | No

    My car rarely ever moves unless

    I do more than 100 miles. Does that cut down on the risk?

  6. #6
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    Do you have the chops and the specialty

    tools to work with precision parts carefully? I've read over the gasket replacement pdf and it could be tricky compared to a rebuilt unit for $250.
    I'll be real curious for feedback from you after you've done the job!

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    yup - heating the motor fully is the key


  8. #8
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    I opted for the Dr.Vanos unit myself.

    Upgraded seals, machined parts to tighter tolerances (in effect, a higher performance VANOS unit with increased durability) seemed worth the extra coin (as opposed to just doing the seals) - not to mention my time simply replacing the unit (as opposed to removing it, playing with the seals and then putting it back). But some might welcome the challenge of tearing that piece apart. I was just excited I got to touch the cams ;)

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    After visiting the Dr Vanos Site..........

    I think i will replace and not rebuild myself. Thanks for the site link.

  10. #10
    CgdR
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    Oil filter housing gasket and valve cover gasket

    Those two gaskets become brittle and leak.

    I did the VANOS gasket replacement and it was easy. I did get some occasional stumbling in acceleration for about 100 miles (the instructions warn about that) but after the seals settled in, it all smoothed out wonderfully.

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    If you did the $60 DIY gasket replacement,

    We'd love to hear as much detail as you have time to write. Especially anything you learned that is not explained in the instructions.
    Personal experience always appreciated!

  12. #12
    CgdR
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    Beisan gaskets for VANOS

    Yes, I got the Beisan gasket set and did the replacement at 135,000 mi. The procedure was EXACTLY as described in the web page. I was already replacing valve cover and oil filer housing gaskets so the VANOS only added a couple of hours or less to the job. That's in spite of two idiocies that I committed:
    1) I was too lazy to look carefully inside the VANOS cylinders when I pulled out the orange plastic VANOS piston caps. I grabbed one of them between its center tab and its edge and broke the edge. Fortunately the central portion was uncracked and it holds its o-ring properly. Lesson: make sure you grab the cap by the center tab only.
    2) I forgot to fully tighten the banjo bolt of the oil feed before I started the engine, so I got a bad mess of oil. (I am usually better than that, I promise!)

    Despite the clumsiness, everything worked out very well. I did not feel before/after difference in torque, but the occasional hiccup and very occasional VANOS OBDII code never came back. The engine now has 144k mi and it has never been smoother.

  13. #13
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    Thanks immensely; I'll add your comments to

    my notes in my Vanos file.
    Any difference in noise while idling? Wondering about the infamous Vanos rattle?

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